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Technical Need some metal shaping advice

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Duke, May 7, 2019.

  1. Duke
    Joined: Mar 21, 2001
    Posts: 838

    Duke
    Member

    B127E7E8-B807-4BC8-BEE2-91C8C34D6ECB.jpeg 198D6093-B66D-4776-BC5B-59E3D724DFD2.jpeg 99C8D0D6-4EB0-4E4A-9948-DA72F3AB0959.jpeg I used the roof skin from a 70s Volvo to make a roof insert on my 29 Ford coupe. I plan to bolt it in and then cover it like a stock roof. The metal fits really nice until the last 6.5 inches. I used my English wheel to role the drop in the rear of the roof. The issue is I seem to have too much material at the center of the roof in the rear. What is a good way to fix this?
    Thanks
     
  2. Binkman
    Joined: Nov 4, 2017
    Posts: 379

    Binkman
    Member

    From the photo it looks like you have to get back on the wheel with the insert and roll it from end to end and side to side to even out the crown you have. Do you have low crown dies ? I have never been able to just roll one area without affecting the adjacent area. If you have a rolled edge already it might be harder to get the panel to take shape. It is best to go from edge to edge like ripples in a pond.
     
  3. Duke
    Joined: Mar 21, 2001
    Posts: 838

    Duke
    Member

    No rolled edge. I wheeled it side to side on the back 6”. The crown seems too high in the center.
    Thanks
     
  4. Duke
    Joined: Mar 21, 2001
    Posts: 838

    Duke
    Member

    Would tuck shrinking help it? In the center at the back?
     

  5. john worden
    Joined: Nov 14, 2007
    Posts: 1,827

    john worden
    Member
    from iowa

    What happens when you press the new metal down to the roof?
     
  6. Duke
    Joined: Mar 21, 2001
    Posts: 838

    Duke
    Member

    When I press it down at the back, it lifts up around the middle of the door.
     
  7. oj
    Joined: Jul 27, 2008
    Posts: 6,457

    oj
    Member

    Did you wheel with flat anvils or did the lower one have a radius? Being that you have raised a low crown I wonder of you have 'tracking' marks in it too, you might not see them them until you try to paint.
    I'd be inclined to shrink with heat.
     
  8. Duke
    Joined: Mar 21, 2001
    Posts: 838

    Duke
    Member

    I used a lower with a low crown radius. It does have some tracking marks. They should be OK as I plan to pad and cover the panel like a stock roof.
     
  9. ray
    Joined: Jun 25, 2001
    Posts: 3,791

    ray
    Member
    from colorado

    maybe try shrinking at the edges there. you'll have to get pretty deep into the panel.

    and there is some serious steel in those garage joists! you could park a tank up there.
     
  10. Duke
    Joined: Mar 21, 2001
    Posts: 838

    Duke
    Member

    How would you shrink it? Heat or machine? My shop is under my garage, and I think my engineer over designed it. It works great for beam trolleys and chain hoists.
     
  11. ray
    Joined: Jun 25, 2001
    Posts: 3,791

    ray
    Member
    from colorado

    make some long tucking forks?
     
  12. Duke
    Joined: Mar 21, 2001
    Posts: 838

    Duke
    Member

    It might work
     
  13. john worden
    Joined: Nov 14, 2007
    Posts: 1,827

    john worden
    Member
    from iowa

    I think tuck shrinking is too drastic for this problem.
    I would do a large number of light linear shrinks (lancaster type shrinker) all along the back edge and probably around the corners and possibly some of the side edges.
    Shrink each time just enough to notice and try to avoid puckering as a result of each shrink action.
    If puckering occurs you can spot shrink those with heat after the edge is brought down.
    Luck.
     
  14. Duke
    Joined: Mar 21, 2001
    Posts: 838

    Duke
    Member

    Thank you! I started that on the back edge, but wondered if I was going at it the right way.
     
  15. oj
    Joined: Jul 27, 2008
    Posts: 6,457

    oj
    Member

    That just a chunk of metal, I'd get another piece and start over and do your wheeling with a flat anvil, it'll give you a slight crown that when the vynil gets stretched out and tight it'll look right.
    These are early days and be prepared to toss out much of your first efforts.
     
  16. CatskillMtnCustoms
    Joined: Jun 16, 2019
    Posts: 2

    CatskillMtnCustoms
    Member

    I just came across this post, I don't know if I'm too late to be helpful...

    What you actually need to do is wheel panel everywhere except the center portion. You could also shrink the center using a torch or a shrinking disc.

    The issue appears to be too much material in the center of the panel. The roof skin probably already had a raised center profile, and then when you wheeled it you actually accentuated that profile. Regardless of the profile of your anvils, whenever you wheel a panel you are stretching the material. If you were to shrink around the edges of the panel, you will bring down those edges, but also further raise the center. However if you wheel (stretch) around the perimeter you will even out the panel which will bring down the center portion and allow the panel to sit flush with your roof.
     
    Tim likes this.
  17. Duke
    Joined: Mar 21, 2001
    Posts: 838

    Duke
    Member

    Thank you! It is not too late. I got it fitting a little better with my shrinking disk. I will try some more wheeling on the edges.
     
  18. CatskillMtnCustoms
    Joined: Jun 16, 2019
    Posts: 2

    CatskillMtnCustoms
    Member

    Awesome. Let us know how it turns out.
     
  19. Duke
    Joined: Mar 21, 2001
    Posts: 838

    Duke
    Member

    14974796-6FC4-4C17-B34F-2BB72DC5FC05.jpeg 440B6F5C-7E1C-43E0-B182-C33C1C64F9B9.jpeg 20CFBC3F-BDC9-4F04-B13B-60A1D57C967B.jpeg I could not get that roof to fit so I went hunting for another one. I found a 65 Mustang coupe and it fits really nice. It has more crown which made it fit perfect.
     
    Tim likes this.

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