Hey guys! I could use a little input.... I have a 56 T bird that I converted to disc/ drum brakes with Wildwood calipers. It has a 7 inch booster and a master cylinder with a 1 inch bore. I have installed a wildwood 10 psi RPV in the rear brake line. The brakes are properly bled, and the booster is working(18 in of vac). The problem is, the brakes will not even come close to locking up....it.takes a lot of leg.power to stop. What can I do to increase stopping power? I dont.have room for an 8 inch booster. Will a 3/4 in bore master help, or do I have the plumbing wrong? Any input is appreciated! Sent from my SM-G960W using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Do you need a residual valve in the rear brake line? I ask because some masters have them built in. The next question is have to contacted Willwood or looked in the info that came with the calipers and seen what size master that they suggest? Have you checked the new booster to be sure it is functioning properly and is your brake actuating rod long enough?
I added the check valve hoping to improve things, but it made no difference. The booster is functioning, and the rod is adjusted properly. Maybe I will give Wildwood a call... Sent from my SM-G960W using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Drive to a safe area, disconnect and plug the booster check valve, and make some brake stops to see if the booster is really working. My experience with a 7" booster is that it worked with light braking but went to early runout (no power) under heavy braking, in a 3500 lb car. The picture is pretty good, but verify how you plumbed the combo valve, just to be sure it's correct. IMO, all you really need is an adjustable proportioning valve along with the rear 10 lb residual, instead of the fixed value prop/hold-off/pressure differential valve now installed.
Wildwood suggested a 3/4 bore master....got one ordered for monday. Sent from my SM-G960W using The H.A.M.B. mobile app