20190130_193234 by Langan posted Mar 4, 2019 at 1:51 AM Just looking for opinion on if I should leave like they are in picture, or make a brace to fender mounts? They are the Ford F1 steel mounts heated and bent. 1/4" plate welded to frame then drilled and taped 7/16×20. No bungs to other side because cut out for spring is in way. Had plans to use fender brace, headlight bar is lowered so bolts are closer.
To me it looks weak , with the top shock mount out away from the frame. I would opt for a safer structural mounting solution.
I think it will be fine if the backing plate welds are not undercut. The bolts are way out at the flanges of the channel where it is the strongest. How rough are your roads? Washboard gravel would be a lot harder on it than fresh new asphalt.
May be just fine, I think the weak point would be the threads tapped in the 1/4" plate, thicker would be better. The fender brace isn't very sturdy and bracing the shock mount to it couldn't gain much and would look kinda hokey, besides.
Exactly what Rich B said. The mount itself will never bend, but your tapping into just 1/4" thick steel might come back to haunt you. Can you at least put a nut on the backside of the frame too?
There was a member here who made from laser cut plates to go behind the mount for support. I'll try to take a picture of them.
Steering dampers are supposed to be attached to the wishbone or hairpin on one side, and the tie rod on the other. Not the frame.
Nope, it doesn’t work both ways. If attached to the frame it will induce bump steer as the axle moves up and down. Kinda what you are trying to cure, right?
I think you are just fine. How many f-1 shock mounts have been bolted to unboxed frames since 1948? Thousands and thousands. My pops A V-8 has them bolted to an unboxed 32 frame, he has never had a problem.
The Jalopy Journal
