Technical Fuel injector Fab

Not sure what brand barrel valve this fits.

I must add that this has been a very interesting thread.
And great work.

 

Sign me up Rich! I'll take 'em.

 

Contact me at [email protected]

 

Well Thanks to Rich Fox it's now Christmas in May! I just received Rich's package and holy smokes it's just like Christmas!!!!!! Nozzles, pills, more pills, bypasses, shutoff valve, hoses! Every time I look in the box I find more!!! Thanks Rich - you've made my week!!! And then some!

 

Hope to see some pictures posted of you using some of it.

 

So you ever meet one of those guys who can't leave well enough alone? Yeah, that's me. Here's my take on a fixture to ream the throttle shaft. I used replaceable drill bushings so if I decide to ever use a larger bearing or bigger shaft - it'll be a piece of cake.

 

The surface of my fixture is pretty flat <.001" - I will eventually put it on the surface plate and see just how flat it really is, but it's close enough for now. The next thing is to get all the bushings at the exact same height and I was doing pretty good - all within .0005" until I got careless and missed the number by .002" - dang I hate when that happens! Sure I could shim it, but then I remembered how I resurfaced the head on my daughters car and I figured it'd work here too. So far it seems real close - we'll see how it feels when they are tightened down.

 

I like it! Well thought out and nicely made too!

 

While teaching a night school class in engine building I got an engine in to use on the shop engine test stand and discovered one main cap was hammered .0035" out of round. I figured 'what the heck, its only a test stand engine' and surfaced the oval main cap the same way as you did it with abrasive strips on a surface plate.
Years later somebody desperately needed an engine so I gave them that one with the caveat that a main cap was suspect. It ran for years with nary a problem. You'll be good.

What are you using for a reamer / hone?
I wouldn't be surprised to see you make your own broach. You probably wouldn't have to heat treat it.

 

Thanks Greg, yeah I'm not worried about it. My daughter lost a head gasket on her Honda. IIRC the spec was over .002" and it needed resurfaced and over .004" scrap it. Hers was out .002" the local machine shop wanted a ridiculous 400 bucks for a 75 dollar job and the bills were adding up fast on the repair so I did it myself. IIRC I got it to just under .0005" and called it good enough. I bet I could have gotten it better, just didn't see the need. Knock on wood - it's been 6 or 7 months ago.
I still have to dig thru my junk to see which reamers I have. I'm tempted to just slot one tang drive style and drive it with a drill. Haven't decided yet.

 

Holy smokes THAT'S a huge slot!!!! Must be for nitro!

 

It said blown gas on the bag it cam in.

 

Saltflats, I see that. I have no idea. I've only ever tinkered on Hilborns. In the ones I'm familiar with -it looks huge!!!! Hence my nitro guess. Honestly I have no idea - my blown alcohol one is MUCH smaller. If that's for gas - I wonder what the alcohol or nitro ones look like!!!!

 

I think it's for an Enderle Bug

 

I opted to enlarge the bores to allow the option for roller bearings should I ever want to try them. The drill/reamer fixture uses bushings you can change in place so once it's aligned you can swap whichever bushing size you need. It worked great! I also took a thin sheet of shim stock and punched a slightly oversized hole in it - I used this to mask off the throttle bore and the hole let me debur the throttle hole edges which were sharp after reaming. I also opted to take the easy way out and just weld some old HEMI pushrods on the drills/reamer to allow me to reach all of the bores in one shot. After I welded them I straightened the in the lathe before use. Worked great!

 

Don't have any rolls for the nooks and crannys but at least I got started on polishing the rest of it! Still lots to do on the ends.

 

Wow!

 

way cool, loving this thread

 

So TODAYS lesson is: Not all Fuel nozzles are the SAME size - even if they are from the same vendor!!!! I used some (I think) NEWER nozzles to mock everything up and had taken measurements off those only to find out when the set I will actually use are quite a bit wider!! After contemplating option between modifying the nozzles to narrow them up like the rest that I have -OR- modifying the housing- I went with the housing so that this problem doesn't bite me again should I decide to change nozzles again. So for my buddy saying "Bolt the damn thing on already" All I can say is that it's always something!!!!!!

 

Hey guys, I made a sorta cool video of the nearly completed unit, but I can't figure out how to embed it here :-( I'll figure it out sooner or later. In the meantime here are some pics of the "prototype" barrel valve, metering block - whatever it's called. I'm adding a couple "trick" features which I can't divulge just yet. I don't know if I came up with something new or not so I'm gonna keep that to myself until I figure that out. In the meantime we're foolin' with some mega tight tolerances for a rum cake in their garage. The spool is supposed to have around .0005" clearance if I understand correctly. I added a teeny bit extra for anodizing thickness so we'll have to see if my swag was even close.

 

Put your video on youtube.com and then post the link here!

 

let's try this:

 

Video works fine. It's so shiny you can see your reflection in it cranking the table round and round LOL.

 

Here's the metering block - this one is sized to be hard coat anodized, but I'd really like to polish one so maybe I'll make one with a sleeve for the spool- we'll see. Learning a lot about these!!!!

 

Awesome job Jacin. Did you hone the bore for the barrel valve? Holding .0005" clearance in the garage shop is admirable. I am skipping the Gasser Reunion at Thompson this year (the Detroit Dragway reunion is the same weekend and 200 mi closer). I'd love to come down in the fall and see it work. Maybe even another match race?

 

Hi Greg, I hit my number with the boring head - I accounted extra clearance for the anodizing thickness - which honestly is a swag because it's hard to determine how well it'll build up in the hole. I may very well have gone too big - if so it's start over time or maybe install a sleeve. I'm hoping if anything the anodizing makes it a little under and I can do the fnal honing after. We'll see it's all learning for me.

 

Not being a machinist I was wondering why the tolerances have to be that tight. To prevent fuel leaks ???

 

Yes loudbang you can’t have it dribbling fuel past the outside of the spool or you could never get a proper tune


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Loudbang, The spool very precisely controls the fuel at idle with a very shallow ramp - a controlled "leak" if you will. Depending on the size of the engine, fuel used and whether or not the engine is blown - this "leakage" is quite small. If the spool fit is so loose that fuel leaks past it - then you have lost control not only of the idle fuel delivery but also the initial position of the spool. Kinda like trying to adjust the idle mixture screws on a carb with the throttle part way open.

 

In process Barrel Valve Spool - the extra material is there to facilitate manufacture. This one is really a test to check out the process and evaluate the results. I scrapped the first one due to my hilbilly collet slipping. Hopefully I have that resolved now. This is a tricky part to figure out numbers wise as well as machining wise- at least for me it has been, but I think I have a reasonable plan.