Customs Engine ID Ford And Chevy V8s

Can anybody identify what i have here
I bought these two engines at the weekend , they are marine based one Ford and the other Chevy, I picked the pair up for £100 (less than $150 in your money )
The guy selling them said they were seized but i have got the Ford to turn most of the way it must have a bit of rust at the top of a cylinder, not worried about that as i am going to rebuild and put in my Edsel
I cannot find any tags on the Ford so need to find casting number location and decode , the Chevy has casting numbers on the rear left hand side saying 5.7 LC So is this a 350 low compression ?
Any advise welcome

 

Looks like your average Windsor Ford, hard to tell size, 302 or 351.

 

Not a 289 or 302. 351W has taller deck height above water pump outlets. Odd [Marine] engine mounts? Are there any castings # to give any idea of YOM etc? What's the # on the passenger front pad of the SBC or casting at rear behind distributor? Is SBC 1pc RMS or 2pc RMS?

I did some further Googling and it appears it could be a later 1pc RMS 350. My 86 5lt had 5L casting and my 1990 Corvette 350 had 5.7 casting.

 

Hi , on the Ford it looked like there used to be a tag on the LHS of the block at the rear but it is missing , i am not sure where to look for casting numbers, the engine mounts on the block are weird , 2 bolts vertical and the top is just a steady bolt that rests against the block , the engines were advertised as a 5.0 and a 5.7 so i took it the Ford is the 302 and the Chev a 350 , the casting details on the rear lhs of the block are GM 5.7 LC SG1

 

Does this photo help

 

GM 5.7 LC SG1 is an 1987 to 1995 350, either 2 bolt or 4 bolt mains.

5.7 LG = 5.7 Liters Gross
SGI = Spheroidal Graphite Iron = (Note: this is the type of iron that the block is made of) Ductile or spheroidal graphite irons: These irons have higher mechanical properties than a comparable grey cast iron with the same composition, because the carbon is in the shape of spheroidal graphite.

The breakdown of the number stamped on the pad will indicate what it was from and when it was produced with sequential production number.

 

Chev photos

 

351W


Look here for Ford block casting numbers to see what you have
http://www.mustangtek.com/block/Block.html

 

Got to be a 351w then by the height of head surface above waterpump bolts. Looks like an earlier one with big sparkplug threads, and rockers without guides either side of the valve. I'm guessing the pushrods will come through slots in the head to keep the rockers centralised over the valves. Definitly a Windsor.

 

Thanks for your help, Yes the pushrods come through slots, the spark plugs look like standard thread, a lot smaller than the ones in my 223 6 pot

 

One more to assist with YOM

 

I've heard of reverse rotation twin aplacations where one motor is standard and the other runs backwards so that's somthing you might want to check out on the Ford.

 

Also, if these engines were "raw water cooled " vs " fresh water cooled " there could be a significant amount of rust in the water jackets...
I understand that American v8's are probably hard to find over there, but along the coast where I live, we try to avoid using marine engines.
Fresh water cooled engines are not a problem.

 

On the Ford, look for casting numbers on the side of the block, near the back, on what we in the US call the passenger side (driver side over there). Might be something like E2TE-6015-A or something, and perhaps a smaller one like 2D12

But it's definitely a 351W, by the looks of it.

The chevy...well, it's what we call a boat anchor.

 

Thanks will do more investigating , by looking at other blocks i think the casing number is behind the starter motor and there are markings under the intake manifold
Hopefully the water jacket/block will not corroded due to it being a ex marine engine and will work out ok for my Edsel instead of the 4.6 i considered with all the modern shit on which i am unfamiliar with
The guy who i got the engines from thinks his dad could have more in storage that he wants to clear (all old marine ) at $75 a shot i will have them all day long even Chevy boat anchors there is always a market for them over here as seized re builders are about $750, $1000 for one that turns and $1500 for a basic runner

 

This engine looks like a junk yard jewel , I removed the heads and oil pan , the bores are perfect with + 30 pistons looks like recent rebore /rebuild , the bottom end is clean which looks like recent new shells , standard big end and the mains look like - 020
The markings on the mains shells are FM 3381CPA OA 020 US, which i think are maybe Fedral Mogul and 020 under size
The water jacket has some dried powdery scale in it but no corrosion to cylinder walls or block, the only thing thats a problem is the distributor is bent and seized solid into the block , i have cut the head off it then carefully drilled a series of small holes around the distributor body where it enters the block to try free it up , i have left it soaking in penetrating oil, think its going to need a bit of gentle heat and a puller to get it out

 

Hammer and chisel is the usual method of distributor removal...but it sounds like you have a good plan that won't damage the block.

Good to see you got a decent engine for a good price, hope it works out putting it in the Edsel

 

Got the distributor out but the engine still would not fully turn over, i decided to remove the rods and pistons one by one to find the cause
The problem was on the last one removed, it looks like the rod has a slight bend in it, could be that the engine sucked in some water causing it to hydraulic
What i was shocked by is the bodge i found on no 1 piston, looks like it was broken and somebody filed it flat , also found 3 pistons facing the wrong direction
going to replace the pistons but am i best to replace all the connecting rods or just the bent one