Technical Ford 9 inch brakes. Help!

Re doing my 9 inch brakes. 70 bronco rear with small bearings and 10inch brakes. Shoes and drums both listed for 10 inch brakes.
Drums will not go on. Shoes match the original shoes perfectly.
I'm using the original adjusters so I thought nothing of it, but a suggestion on my build thread made me take a second look.
The photo of the adjuster is with it turned to its MINIMUM length. Should the wheel be closer to the bung?
It's really close to fitting.
Take a look and tell me what you think. Perhaps the drums are just wrong?

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they usually bottom out, no gap. Take it out and apart, and see what's going on with it.

 

Here's a couple more shots for reference. All these parts are cross referencing as 70 bronco, 10×2/12 brake components.
Driving me nuts.


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I have seen this happen twice, when someone greased the adjusters, excessively. In each case, there was so much grease in the bottom of the hole, it stopped the adjuster from being completely collapsed.

I have also see this from rust, on junkyard rear ends, where the shoes were shot. The adjusters had been wound all the way out for so long, the inside threads has rusted, preventing the adjuster from being completely collapsed.

If it's grease, clean it out. If it is rust. take the adjusters apart, and put them in a container of white vinegar overnight. Wash and lightly grease them the next day.

 

10/4.
All mt f100 manuals show them not bottomed, but those are drawings that probably don't convey exact reality.
The bung has a weep hole, and I can see the screw reaching the weep hole, so it seems to be all the way in.
That doesn't mean some 4by hillbilly had legitimate parts on this rear, though.

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Once you have the adjuster all the way in make sure the shoes are riding on the backing plate correctly, usually a good smack with both hands towards each other seats them.
For reference here's my 74 bronco 10 inch brake I just finished a couple weeks ago.

 

10/4.
I'm gonna pull them and double check tonight.


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This old pile flat refuses to see the pavement every step of the way

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Any close ups of those adjusters?
Here's my fitment up top.....

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Is the Drums New, If they are, Probably need Turning to True Up........

 

I never considered this.
New shoes are .015" thicker than the originals.
It appears that the adjuster is not going all the way in.
Adjuster slots are larger than original shoes, smaller than new ones.
Impossible to see with the adjuster spring on.

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All of my brake suppliers tell me this is a myth.
But that's big rigs, so it may be different.

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Take them back and get the shoes radiused to the drums

 

No dice on the adjuster.
I'm gonna pic up a different brand drum tomorrow and maybe some new adjusters.
I considered getting the shoes arced, but in all the drum brakes I've ever done, it was not remotely necessary just to get the drum on, but rather the way to get perfect braking contact.

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Swapped the original shoes back on.
Everything fits great.
I guess daddy needs a new pair of shoes.

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I have seen this many times with after market parts from CHINA

The shoes are to thick to fit the drums on.. also it is NOT a myth one should cut a set of drums/rotors before putting on vehicle. The tolerances from these over seas parts suck ass. For some reason it seems to be the Fords that have the issues with drum/shoe fitment.
The other drums that have major issues are for the Toyota trucks being turned out of round from the get go...

 

Don't you just Love drum brakes! Lots of great advice above and a couple of great pictures ( we All love pictures). I would spring (no pun intended) for the new adjusters, they should go All the way in. The Dawn Treader will hit the road before you know it, hang in there!

 

You're probably right. I am just relaying what my heavy parts suppliers at the shop tell me.
I also work for an oem, and our parts FIT the application they are listed for.
I chose delco brakes because they are an oem parts manufacturer. But for gm, so perhaps there is discrepancy on a Ford application.

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I hope so.
I just did all 4 wheels on my 58, and have done so many drum brake jobs between big trucks and old cars it's ridiculous, and I have never ever experienced this issue.
Gadzooks!

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The thicker replacement shoes apparently were the problem. I've encountered different thickness shoes before, but it was years ago, I don't remember the details.

File the notch in the adjuster wider, or use the old shoes. I've been inclined to re use old brake shoes, if they're in good condition, and riveted (bonded linings can come loose after decades). For example I just put the "old" shoes back in my Hudson, after fixing up the wheel cylinders. My guess is they are at least 35 years old.

 

I decided to replace everything because one side was oil soaked. I specifically bought the riveted ones, and delco because they are oem suppliers.
Oh well.

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Stacking tolerances. The adjusters need to be cleaned and turned all the way in, the adjuster slot filed to fit the shoes. The shoe lining is slightly thicker. All added up to this issue. Went through this last month fitting complete new brake setup on Ford rear end for buddy's hot rod. One of the new adjusters was slightly too long. Took a bit of the end of the sleeve, and all fit together.

 

never assume new shoes/drums are truly round - re-arc shoes & minimum truing of drums should be done - if used drums, be sure to place back on side of car they came from - search for thread here: Arcing Drum Brake Shoes

 

When I put new brake shoes on before I reinstall the drums I grab the shoes near the bottom and give them a tug to make sure they are seated at the right spot of the backing plate also slide them back and forth to make sure there aren't grooves worn where the shoes seat against the backing plate.

 

Damn, that's a first, not an off the wall suggestion in the batch.
Cleaning up the adjusters and dressing up the ends to fit the width of the attachment point on the shoes is pretty standard. I'm thinking those pieces of the shoes are stamped out and have had to work on them sometimes to get them to to fit the adjuster right you have to dress them a bit to get the burrs off. I used to fight with some lining when I was doing brakes every day.

Still I am pretty well with the others in that the adjusters have something going on inside that needs to be cleaned up. I've ran into that many times and have had to replace them when I couldn't get them cleaned up.

 

is the emergency brake cable backed-off??

 

Good one, bird. Never assume!

 

One thing not mentioned is possible backing plate wear. There's three small square 'pads' at each shoe on the backing plate, that's the contact/alignment point for the shoes, and is what the shoes move on when applying the brakes. These can get worn (a groove worn into the pad is common) and prevent the shoe from retracting all the way or allow it to 'cock' when installing the drum. 'Blending' the groove away with a small sanding disc is the cure, or if the groove is particularly deep, building it back up with weld then grinding it back to shape will renew them.

This is an often-missed detail, but can be critical...

 

^^^^And those are where you put the brake lubriplate along with the treads on the adjuster.

 

Here is something you might consider. The notches in the brake shoes where the adjusters fit may not be machined deep enough. A small variation there could cause the adjuster to be unable to be adjusted far enough.