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Technical Living with 6v--How is it, really?

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by squirrel, Apr 30, 2019.

  1. plym_46
    Joined: Sep 8, 2005
    Posts: 4,018

    plym_46
    Member
    from central NY

    But sometimes 12 v knocks the crap out of 6 v solenoids.
     
  2. dan griffin
    Joined: Dec 25, 2009
    Posts: 505

    dan griffin
    Member

    Jim, find and old Sun volt-amp tester it will have big resisters 5 to 10 inches long made to take lots of heat.
     
  3. bchctybob
    Joined: Sep 18, 2011
    Posts: 5,190

    bchctybob
    Member

    Nice car Jim. This thread has dredged up some very useful info.
    From experience my 6v OD solenoid only lasted a month on 12v (‘55 Ford wagon) with regular use. I would just watch for an OD trans cheap and rob the 12v solenoid off it. Come to think of it, I donated a ‘59 Ford 3 spd/OD to your Edsel adventure or did it go with the car when you sold it.


    Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
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  4. tomic
    Joined: Jan 8, 2008
    Posts: 120

    tomic
    Member

    i have a couple of R10 overdrive solenoids laying about. what OD unit you have? 12 volt for sure and known working. even have the rubber boot for it.
     
    squirrel likes this.
  5. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 55,931

    squirrel
    Member

    I still have that transmission, and I pulled the solenoid off it yesterday. The number on the solenoid is listed as 52-53 Ford (it's a Delco number). I'm not sure if it would work on 12v, but there are some indications that it was used through 1960?

    Thanks for the offer Tom, I'll see how the other one does, and let you know if I need one.

    In other news, I installed a crappy electric fuel pump in back (temporarily?), and got the rest of the fuel system mostly working. I had to scrounge a couple of carbs, the originals were missing, but I had a mismatched pair of Chevy one barrels from the 60s. I got them sort of working, the engine idles now. I'm working on the lights, and such.

    I guess I'm too much of a lazy cheapskate to go to the expense and effort of leaving it 6v. If the generator were still there, I would probably give it a try, but since it's missing, and I have most of the stuff needed to finish the 12v conversion, that's what I'm doing.

    thanks again for all the insights, folks!
     
  6. LOU WELLS
    Joined: Jan 24, 2010
    Posts: 2,754

    LOU WELLS
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from IDAHO

    The 6 Volt System Works Great When All Of The Parts Are Fresh And They Would Not Have Sold 55 T-Birds If It Did Not Work...IMHO... 1955-ford-thunderbird-roadster-raven-black-4.jpg
     
  7. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 55,931

    squirrel
    Member

    Meanwhile...

    I decided to use the existing wiring for now, and see how it does. I added a fuse link to the main feed wire. I got the ignition system, starter, dash lights, headlights, tail lights, heater blower, and idiot lights all working. So I can sit inside and start it up, and it charges the battery, and has oil pressure. Pretty cool.

    I hope it doesn't burn up!

    Waiting for some brake parts, that might show up Monday or so.

    dash lights.jpg tail lights.jpg
     
  8. theboss20
    Joined: Dec 30, 2018
    Posts: 274

    theboss20

    They now make 8v battery maintainers and that keeps you topped-off so you don’t need to worry...worst case a 6v multilevel wheel charger with low,med and boost will work to charge an 8v battery.


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
     
  9. theboss20
    Joined: Dec 30, 2018
    Posts: 274

    theboss20

    The biggest issue with dim lights is bad grounds depending on the body for the ground (positive ground still needs a return) and the headlights should have a wire that comes back to the battery and not rely on the body or frame.


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    Surfcityrocker, H380 and samurai mike like this.
  10. theboss20
    Joined: Dec 30, 2018
    Posts: 274

    theboss20

    Depending on the amount of current used the battery that is tapped will always be out of balance and fail prematurely.


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  11. theboss20
    Joined: Dec 30, 2018
    Posts: 274

    theboss20

    The Runtz reducer works best for gauges...


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  12. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 55,931

    squirrel
    Member

    I've read that the Ford thermal gauge regulator from the later 50s-60s works on the Hudsons. They use thermal gauges, similar to Fords.
     
  13. coilover
    Joined: Apr 19, 2007
    Posts: 696

    coilover
    Member
    from Texas

    Back when they had the 12v tar top batteries one could put a stud in the bar tying the 3-4 cells in a 12v battery and have a dual voltage system: 12v for the start-charge system and 6v for all the other. Worked pretty good. They make 12v mini batteries but don't know about 6v ones. If they do one could use two in series and have the same set up as an old tar top. 6v solenoids have for me lasted a very long time or a very short time when on 12v. On my 37 Buick I put some kind of voltage drop to keep the solenoid from slamming the starter drive into the flywheel so hard; the starter motor has worked fine for over 30 years on 12v but it and the horn definitely are on steroids. My good friend had the Hudson dealership where I grew up so I've always been a fan. Even drove a 1954 Jet when in college.
     
    squirrel likes this.
  14. Dwardo
    Joined: Aug 1, 2017
    Posts: 71

    Dwardo

    I'll probably get flamed, but the 8-volt solution is not too bad. We used 8 volts on out last Hudson Hornet and the starting was much improved, as were the lights. Yeah, the bulbs don't last as long but it wasn't really a problem. It's a quick and dirty solution. The radio doesn't like it at all so if you want that you have to drop the voltage somehow, but all other components were fine. Ran it that way for a long time.
     
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  15. Gary Addcox
    Joined: Aug 28, 2009
    Posts: 2,528

    Gary Addcox
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I like your emergency brake, Squirrel ! LOL. Those were extremely well-built cars.
     
  16. RMONTY
    Joined: Jan 7, 2016
    Posts: 2,540

    RMONTY
    Member

    Is this car going to be this year's version of the hearse?
     
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  17. alanp561
    Joined: Oct 1, 2017
    Posts: 4,609

    alanp561
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I have the same wiring problem and questions as you so I called Jeremy at Rebel Wire who is right down the road from me and asked him about a 6v kit for my 46 Merc. They build an 8 circuit kit with heavier wiring which would give me 2 extra circuits for $285 minus the HAMB discount of $28.50. As soon as I get my engine problem sorted out, the wiring kit will be my next investment.
     
  18. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 55,931

    squirrel
    Member

    Since this car isn't an investment, it's an expense, I'm trying to keep costs down to a minimum.

    I did get it driving yesterday, now I need to work on the cooling system.

    As for the electrical system...I installed a bunch of used parts, and a few new parts (light bulbs, a few wires, a couple of replacement switches) and have the lights, charging system, starting system, all working, by spending under $100. It's now 12v, and I still need to get the temp and gas gauge working, as well as the overdrive.

    It's great to see how other folks deal with the 6v issue. Looks like if you're dedicated, it's not too difficult to keep the old system working as it was designed.
     
    Algoma56 likes this.
  19. Jon
    *We are country folk. A lot of what we learned was on the fly and we just do things a little differently than what is normally done at the Ford Garage. That is not to say that they did it wrong at the Ford Garage or that what we are doing is actually wrong. We just learned different. ;)

    *Yea I know I grew up in a city but it falls under this old adage "waking up in a barn doesn't make you a cow." ;)

    Lou
    I had 2 '55 Fords when I was in high school. The first one was a '55 Ranch Wagon. It was 12V, I know that it did not come that way. My great uncle bought it new and I got to believe that he must have changed it at some point before '69 when I bought it from him. The other was a '55 Victoria which was also 12 V. I bought the body for 30 bucks and moved everything from the Ranch Wagon over to it.

    That said, I got an idea that someone convinced my great uncle that 12V was cheaper to keep going. 6V batteries were costly as I recall.
     
    Last edited: May 7, 2019
  20. RMONTY
    Joined: Jan 7, 2016
    Posts: 2,540

    RMONTY
    Member

    Just checked out The World Tour of Texas. That's a lot of miles across the state. The overdrive will be handy!
     
  21. bchctybob
    Joined: Sep 18, 2011
    Posts: 5,190

    bchctybob
    Member

    That's funny 'cause we pulled the 292/3 spd/9" out of a non-running '59 Ford parts car, it even had the desirable 4 bbl manifold with the big Holley carb flange which I used on my '55 Ford 2 dr wagon.
    That dash looks so nice lit up. My Dad had two big Hudsons when I was a little kid, brings back good memories.
     
  22. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 55,931

    squirrel
    Member

    I guess it will work, then.
     
  23. Ebbsspeed
    Joined: Nov 11, 2005
    Posts: 6,250

    Ebbsspeed
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Too late for Jim's Hudson, but in case someone does a search, you can make your own 6 volt (positive or negative ground) Delcotron with one of these kits. I've had one on my '37 Buick for over 10 years. Last fall I replaced a 6 volt battery that lasted 8 years. It gets a battery tender in the winter, you warm climate folks can just drive yours to keep the battery charged.

    https://store.alternatorparts.com/6voltalternatorconversionrepairkits.aspx
     
    Last edited: May 8, 2019
  24. dirty old man
    Joined: Feb 2, 2008
    Posts: 8,910

    dirty old man
    Member Emeritus

  25. Rickybop
    Joined: May 23, 2008
    Posts: 9,605

    Rickybop
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Squirrel, you're a prolific hot rodder and you've got some cool stuff. Your Bacarudda is awesome.
    So it's kind of interesting and fun to see you messin' with an old original car for a change, lol.
    As you said...pretty cool.
     
  26. dirty old man
    Joined: Feb 2, 2008
    Posts: 8,910

    dirty old man
    Member Emeritus

    Not surprised that Dodge wouldn't start, the stupid guy patted that gas pedal enough times to flood a damn battleship:confused: Amazed that he didn't burn up the starter too:eek:
     
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  27. Rickybop
    Joined: May 23, 2008
    Posts: 9,605

    Rickybop
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Poor car had some hot wires.
    If it doesn't start after just a few cranks...
     
    anthony myrick likes this.
  28. Well, my vote is for staying with the 6V system, I have two cars that are 6 volt and even the one that sets outside all winter starts fine. BUT I understand your point about cost. I have the bad habit of buying all the generators and regulators I can find at swap meets that cost $5 or less each. I have many spares and have not needed any of them but one or two regulators in the past 30 years or so. so my cost is just a battery every 3 years.
     
  29. Yep I think the guy said it hadn’t been cranked in years
    It’s a good example to show folks that has never owned a 6 volt ride
    I've had a couple, cranking was sometimes a crap shoot
     
    Last edited: May 8, 2019
    Truck64 likes this.

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