Had to damn near destroy the brakes to get the drums off. Soaked the shoes in oil. I have done hundreds of drum brake jobs. What the hell?! Sent from my LGLS992 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Double checked the old shoes to the new and they're a match. I guess the drums are too small? Sent from my LGLS992 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I'm giving up for today. No car was ever more appropriately named as this one. Sent from my LGLS992 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I had the same problem on some drums, and it turns out it was an oversight during assembly on my part. Hopefully your issue is something similarly simple to fix. I like the build!
I'm using the original adjusters, but I'll give it a gander. Sent from my LGLS992 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Turned to the hamb for some help. (Thread below) https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/index.php?posts/13068656 Sent from my LGLS992 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Thought we found the problem. The delco shoes were .015" wider in the web than the old ones. The adjuster didn't pocket all the way down. I also cut some threads off the adjuster to shrink it down, but I decided it was pretty close already and shouldn't need modification. So I threw the original shoes back on and everything fit fine. So now I'm looking to get new shoes. Which I needed since I had to soak the delcos in oil to get the drum back off. I'll also pick up some new adjusters. Sent from my LGLS992 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
New Wagner shoes were .013" thinner and I popped the 7 bucks for the new adjuster kits. It all fits fine now. I'll finally be back to where I was a month ago. But with new bearings and brakes. As its named, every time this car becomes a tribute to my own glory, bad things tend to happen. Sent from my LGLS992 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
And she's back on all fours. Definitely going to swap the 7.60s for 8.20s eventually. Sent from my LGLS992 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
One roadblock after another. The TCI kit came with P&J shocks. They're freaking bad right out of the box. Zero rebound! I guess they're not gas charged, just oil filled. Edit: I called P&J and they confirmed that they are not gas shocks and state that while testing, they determined gas shocks are too stiff for these applications. Sent from my LGLS992 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Shocks are at full extension while the car is static. Anybody know a good part number for shocks that fit? Sent from my LGLS992 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
The TCI kit installed as shipped, IMO sits too high. I added 2" blocks to get some where near a decent ride height. I even added a shock mount tab to the upper side of the spring plate to make the supplied shock work. Lots of conversation with TCI, but not much real help. Sales guy did say that if a shock failed he would consider a replacement. I like the TCI mounting kit - the parabolic springs are another matter.
If I remember correctly 73 Chevy half ton front shocks worked on mine. Same shock as a corvette but if you ask for a corvette shock around here they want to rape you on the price. Parts store should have a chart to tell you length fully opened and closed and type of end on a variety of shocks. Hope this helps.
I'm considering just flipping the plates side to side so the shock tab points up. That should give me another 1.5" or so. Sent from my LGLS992 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Here's a pic. It gives the shock a full 2" of extension travel. I'm pretty disappointed with how noisy these urethane bushings are. But, all in all, it came out ok. I have heard alot about others not caring for the parabolics and I'm wondering why. The concept seems to be superior for a passenger car, but I have no experience with them. The TCI shocks were from P&J's. Amazingly, P&J were more helpful than TCI with tips on this setup. Sent from my LGLS992 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I like the work you have done. I wouldn't sweat the shock length yet. Fill it with gas, a cooler of beer and two fat buddies in the back seat then see where the shocks are. 2" of down travel isn't bad. It's not a 4x4
The cleaning begins. I got a line on some good 461 heads and I just need to get the grease off for a repaint in gold oneshot. Sent from my LGLS992 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Also thinking about brakes. Two questions: 1)Is there a benefit to converting from the 40 style fronts to F1 backing plates and drums? Because I am considering this. 2)For those who have done this, What's the best master cylinder setup to use? Adapter to original assembly? Aftermarket boosted assembly? What say you? Sent from my LGLS992 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Trying to decide between sticking with tins or putting on aluminum pan and timing cover. Also. What is the best cleaning method to prepare for repaint? I'm using aerosol carb cleaner, but I think it's melting the factory paint and may not be degreasing. Sent from my LGLS992 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Personally, those are two items you are never going to see. Keep the costs down and use the tins. If you can, just get them blasted...But stuff the inside of that oil pan with old towels and rags covering the sump and top side of the baffle, and then use some heavy duct tape to hold it all in and mask the inside area. You don't want grit caught up in the baffle coming back to haunt you and wrecking your engine. I have done this plenty of times and it works fine. I use brakleen or acetone to clean the outside of the engine. Carb cleaner tends to leave a residue. If you need to really get the old paint off, a wire wheel on a 4" grinder (without the guard on), works great---wear safety glasses or sheild! But, again, you need to mask off the top end and id bolt that pan and front cover back on to keep debris out. If it has some grease still on the outside, I would scrap that off and use some Purple Power cleaner and some smaller detail brass brushes to scrub the areas. It takes alot of time to clean a used assembled engine to get it ready for paint. Most times (but not always) if I am down as far as you, I just say screw it and pull it all apart and re-ring and bearing it while im in there. Then you know everything is clean. Piece of mind.
I'll get some detailed pics of the internals. They're so shiny and perfect. After the carb cleaner, I started wiping it with acetone, and that seems to be doing well. Sent from my LGLS992 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I'm installing F100 brakes on my 40 currently. You can use F1 backing plates and mechanicals but you'll need 53-56 F100 hubs to keep the track width stock. The F1 hubs will move the wheels outwards around .25" I bought everything from a gentlemen on here that specializes in F1/F100 brake adaptations. Ill find his contact info for you. As far as the MC goes. I manufacture an adaptor that allows you to use a modern mastercylinder with your 39/40 pedal assembly. They use an early Mustang dual m/c. I'm going to be experimenting with a different MC in the next few weeks that actually matches the early ford bore size of 1 1/16" vs the 1" bore of the Mustang MC. https://www.millworkshotrod.com/collections/old-yankee-speed-co
I have a set of 58 f1 backing plates, but I don't think they are the same as 56. I found an old hotrod article with bearing numbers on this swap. I'm not sure if it's worth it. If the 39 brakes are fine, then I'm ok with it, but my gut says 50s truck brakes will outperform the 39 juice brakes. Sent from my LGLS992 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Unfortunately 58 backing plates wont work. I was in the same boat lol. My buddy Josh's 39 mwould put you thru the windshield his car stopped on a dime. I've never been that lucky with my 40. I'm also running a pretty hopped up flathead. I actually sell a disc brake set up for Early Fords but couldn't bring myself to committing to making such a modern upgrade lol
I feel like you about that. I do not have shoes for the front at this time, so I'm thinking that maybe the f1 upgrade (if it really is one) is the thing to do. Your buddy has the stock brakes? Sent from my LGLS992 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Here's the inside. The cam and head swap is for a mild performance upgrade and better look. This plant only has about 30k on the odometer, so I don't want to break it down any further. Sent from my LGLS992 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Yes stock brakes, I'll send you the pix of the Early Ford repair manual we used to adjsut them. Just DM me your number and I'll text you tomorrow. I have no clue what he did but I've never had an Early Ford stop so good. So, its defiantly obtainable but I just could never get that out of my 40 even with all new components
The guy I bought it from had original asbestos linings put on the shoes. He does this to all his cars and says they stop like no other. Did your buddy happen to buy his shoes in Pomona Ca? Because the old owner never picked them up from the brake shop and they sold them! Sent from my LGLS992 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
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