Cleaning up my 10 bolt and discovered this. Not sure if it’s something to worry about or not? Looked a little off to me. What do you guys think? Thanks for the help
Not too uncommon, it looks like they had been re welded at some point. If it was mine I would grind the globs off and we weld it. I re welded the original welds on mine with no problems.
Yes, I'll second the remove the ugly weld from the partially welded plug weld hole and re-weld. I'd grind it down level and then use a carbide burr (finishing with a flat ended burr) to get as much weld out of that partially welded hole as possible. Then a re-weld and clean up and you're good to go.
Ok awesome thank you guys. I thought it didn’t look right. I’ll clean it up and have my buddy re weld it for me. Thanks again everyone for the conformation. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I would clean up the area including the welds and drill a hole in between each of the welds to the depth of the tube and plug weld the new hole's. you will know you get proper penetration this way.
I’m definitely not running a blower but that sure would be nice Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
If I was going to re weld it, I would take a torch to it and try and burn out all the grease. From the looks of the weld it had some impurity in it.
It probably rolled off the assembly line like that. If I was worried I may make a tack weld or two on the axle tube but I would probably just run it and not worry about it. The "Quality Control Inspector" obviously wasn't too worried about it.
For sure. Going to clean it and sandblast it before the welding gets done. It does have some kind of impurity in. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
There is a hole in the center of the weld that’s the impurity I was referring to. But I’m no welder. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
You could possibly warp the housing/tubes with weld-heat; ask me how I know that. It involved my 57 Olds rear end that I had assembled, before I welded on the new spring pads. Spun freely before welding; after welding on the pads, there was a "catch" while spinning the pinion. I did't believe you could actually warp a housing until that happened. But then again, how ma ny of us have a rear end jig to prevent warping? I am Butch/56sedandelivery.
I got a fixture and in over 50 years I have not used it to weld spring pads on. That does not mean that I will not ever warp one but I have been lucky so far.
The tubes are pressed in and plug welded. Not good enough for drag strip starts but just fine for a street rod /street tires. Sometimes those plugs will seep lube and make a mess. If you're blasting anyway, I'd drill the bad ones out , almost down to the tubes , then blast and re-weld. You won't warp a tube with spring perches if you skip around and let it cool in between.
Just wanted to give you guys an update. I got the rear blasted and my buddy helped me out and re did the plug welds and add some stitching on the tubes and housing just some extra insurance. Now it’s off to be powder coated. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Had one in the 60's on a brand new Chevy that leaked. Took to the dealer where a good friend worked. Service writer says have to install an new housing. Friend was old time mechanic he said BS. He welded it it while I waited. Never leaked as long as I had it.
He should go all the way around with the weld, I would have. Especially before powder coat and id grind off the casting flash / mold parting lines too
I told him to just stitch like that but I will definitely get to those mold parting lines never paid it any attention until you pointed it out. Thanks Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I have seen the yoke pointing straight up at the trunk and the driveshaft all twisted up. The center section will spin on the tubes on 10 and 12 bolts and on Dana 60's. Given enough horsepower and traction.
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