Technical Stripped Allen head into Aluminum head

This might help others out in the future.

I understand my issue here is a steel (of what kind I don't know) blt into Al.

Will heat (O/A) break up the galvaniatic? reaction and allow me to get it out? Working in a tight area...I could probably get a 90* die mini grinder and get to it, just holding a heat shield on, but if heat will do it, it would save me a few bucks on buying a tool I've never needed for all these years.

Thoughts, experiences?

Thanks

 

Pretty difficult to respond without a photo of the problem.

 

When I rode a Honda, I learned to always give bolts and screws threaded into aluminum a sharp wack with a big hammer to break the oxide loose. After that they almost always came right out.

 

Photo ???? is worth 1,000 words and some were already used up ....

 

Anti seize is your friend.

 

Well...two things...I'll try to get a photo...and this was put together 18 years ago...not sure a photo would help.

Rich, can't get a whack at it...only about 4-5 inches between the head and the firewall.

Main thing I was wanting to know if heat would do it like steel does...not used to this hitech Al stuff

 

I'll find out in an hour or so if heat works, Will report back...gonna happen to someone else I'm guessing.

 

Can you get a long punch in on some of the bolt head to smack on it?

 

I bet heat will work as well.

 

Letting it cool now...Punch might work, but I'd be banging the head of the Allen on the side.

Last resort I'll torch it out...gotta get this thing out of the driveway...lol

Thanks all

 

Heat, heat, the magical fruit, the more you use, the more...

Anyways, never heated a bolt to get it out of Al before, but it works like steel vs CI...heat red, let it cool completely and take it out.

Now, just FYI, the Aleen head was semi rounded out, to where I had minimal grip on it...moral of the story is if it starts too tight...get another game plan.

Thanks again all.

And Rich...back in my 2 stroke days...my dad came up with an impact driver...man,. I think that cost about 12-15 bucks in the early 70's...now you can get them for like what...a 5 spot at HF?

Times have changed

 

Heat worked on the thermostat housing bolts in an aluminum SBC manifold, when I did that last. Kept heating the bolt only, and let it soak down into the stuck area. Heated it again, and again. I also wire brushed the exposed area of any residue. Let it cool down a bit, then threaded the broken bolt out.

 

Yes, heat did the trick...was concerned about it being into Al., but worked just fine.

 

An impact driver is a very useful tool. When you replace the bolt use never seize as someone else has said.

 

If you have access to it externally, hammer a 6-point socket over it and give it a turn. If it protests, go the heat route. I use never seize on every fastener on my cars.

 

Another good tip is to chase the threads with a tap, before installing a new fastener.
Vic

 

If you have room, get a uncoated nut that will fit over the Allen, bolt or stud (it will work on all 3) then thru the hole in the nut weld it to the Allen. Now the important part let it cool completely preferably over night , then take a wrench and back it out.
The MIG weld will not stick to the aluminum, you may get some spatter holes in the aluminum but the threaded portion will come out. I have done on 3/8, 5/16, 1/4-20 and some smaller.
THE IMPORTANT PART IS LET IT TOTAL COOL, always leave it over night BEFORE YOU FXXX WITH IT.

 

^^^^^I have had to do this before and I found that it is easier to cut the nut in half before welding it to the Allen. My MIG wouldn't penetrate the Allen as it was over attracted to the sides of the nut. The thinner nut was much easier to weld. And I didn't let them cool, I backed them out with an impact wrench while they were toasty hot. These were on a HD brake caliper on a bike of mine and not a head though to be clear.

 

Try a metric Allen wrench...Sometimes it works...

 

Thanks all, just to recap...there was no room for me to try and weld anything, just enough for me to get my torch tip in an heat it up. After it cooled, came right out.

As I mentioned before, I'd never done this with Al, so didn't know if it would work or make it worse...but it worked

 

Good job!...

 

When I have a stripped allen head bolt, I try to find a torx bit that is a little bigger and hammer it into the hex. Then put a rachet on it. Works most of the time, especially on smaller bolts, set screws, flat heads and button heads.

 

You were lucky. Anything that threads into aluminum gets anti-seize, without fail....

 

Like Wahoo said, that's the best, it never let me down if you have the room to hammer. No mess, no risk of burning anything.

 

Yes however it doesn’t help unless you put it on before it gets stuck. If you do and it doesn’t get stuck then we don’t know for sure

 

The weld a nut is the last resort before you have to drill and tap it . Unless you have access to a EDM.