I apologize for rambling here. But, I need information please. I'll give a little info how I got into the situation, bc some typically want to know that. Long story short (as possible): Took my car to body shop of guy I know. Does good work, but is slow. So, I thought I knew what I was getting into. Paid money up front hoping it would motivate him to get it done. He had guy who knew and liked old cars working for him at the time. Old guy tore apart and got some stuff done. Old guy takes off, never to be heard from again. After a couple years, we're at a point to paint. New guy is having issues with door gaps and the ends of the front bumper. He didn't take it apart. So is starting fresh. So, I'm wondering what is normal for door gaps. Also, are there typically any rubber bushings or something to protect front of fender from bumper? I'm not sure I'm posting enough or correct information here for my questions to be answered. So if anything else necessary, let me know. Thank you. Sent from my Nexus 6P using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
2 years = body shop prison. I like to see a uniform 3/16" gap all around. The front fender should be able to be jockeyed to help that. I like to leave everything snug, but it should still be able to be moved. I like to match-drill doors to the hinges before I take it apart, but only after my gaps are perfect. I like to keep bumper to body gaps uniform side to side. I don't know of any bumpers for the front of Chevy doors, but tape the edges in case they rub while you are doing the final adjustments.
Nothing. Just having it redone. I have photos of it before body shop in my profile. I think it's the Current Status album Bumper wasn't straight at that time. Sent from my Nexus 6P using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Both doors look low, as the body lines do not line up, and looks tight at the rocker. Also look like they could move forward a little to open up the gaps at the quarter. If the bumper was sent to be straightened it may not have been shaped perfectly. I would fix all of the stuff before you paint.
Not to be a prick, but money up front sometimes removes the incentive for prompt , quality work. Sent from my LG-TP450 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I learned that the hard way. Now I'm just trying to get out the situation I got into. Sent from my Nexus 6P using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
the reason I asked was if they did a lot of welding/replacing panels they may have welded them in crooked. if it was aligned when it went in, and they did not cut and reshape anything, it should be able to be adjusted. it almost looks like the cowl [just the cowl] is rocked to one side. are the body mounts all in good shape, or new? and the nose looks like it is over to one side. start with good body mounts, then align the doors to the quarter panel, then fit the fenders to the doors, adjust the hood to the cowl, then adjust the front of the fenders to the hood/frame/bumper.
In the pictures last 2 pictures posted those are the grill ends not the bumper. More than likely after market pieces that do not fit properly. I went through that on my 54.
You are correct. The originals were buggered up bad and too frustrated to get the correct names of parts.
Thanks for this. I'll forward this on to them. There was no cutting except to put the '55 eyebrows on. I don't know about the body mounts. Unfortunately, that's why I took it to someplace that is supposed to know this.
Step one: align the doors. They hang too low in the back and will probably sag a little more with all the window weight in them. I think having them a 1/32 high to begin with sounds good. Then the bodyman can start worrying about the gap. Might need to add metal to the door, or grind and weld if it's too tight. As for the grille parts, I think you have found the issue with repro vs. original. Looks like it will be easier for the bodyman to bend the fender than bend the stainless grille. That shouldn't be hard for a good bodyman though. A bit of hammer hammer, then some grind grind, more hammer hammer, then filler and sand sand.
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