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Hot Rods Technical: '32-34 Ford Steering Box Adjustment

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by phartman, Apr 19, 2019.

  1. I understand there are three adjustments to the '32-34 steering boxes. Could anyone please point me the the right direction as to the procedure for loosening/tightening up the box? Thanks.

    I suspect that the steering box internals and worm gear are expanding enough when hot to get too tight. After driving a while, or sitting after driving, the steering on my 1934 Pickup is almost impossible. Maybe I can back off a bit on the adjustment.

    Instructions? Again, thanks.
     
  2. alchemy
    Joined: Sep 27, 2002
    Posts: 20,407

    alchemy
    Member

    Expanding like that doesn't sound normal. Unless the exhaust is right next to it, and if so, you should probably move the exhaust.

    If the exhaust isn't near, I'd think the box could use a look inside.

    If all the parts are good, re-adjust the worm gear first with paper shims under the end plate. Then the sector is adjusted in the center of it's cycle by turning the end stud inward. And install the locking nut last.
     
  3. Alchemy, is there a bushing in the steering tube? It would center the steering shaft in the tube. Located somewhere above the steering box, before the tube goes through the firewall?
     
  4. alchemy
    Joined: Sep 27, 2002
    Posts: 20,407

    alchemy
    Member

    Nope, two bearings on the worm, and a bushing type thing way at the top of the tube.

    Now that I think about it there I could be another adjustment in a 32 box on the sector housing. I think it rotates somehow and is clamped to the main box with the top bolt. Not sure what that actually does though. My experience is with F-1 boxes which use the same type of gasket shimming and sector adjusting stud.
     

  5. I believe this bushing may be the culprit. Where is it located? Up near the steering wheel???

    By the way, I have your repro taillights on my '40 and get compliments all the time. Thanks for your fine work!

    [​IMG]
     
    lothiandon1940 likes this.
  6. Hope you guys don't mind if I post up a picture of the aforementioned tail-lights. They are gorgeous. Sorry, Pete, for the thread hijack, just couldn't help myself.............Don. 5545709_orig.jpg
     
  7. AngleDrive
    Joined: Mar 9, 2006
    Posts: 1,145

    AngleDrive
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Florida

    See if you can blow these up. Sorry for the double on first page. As for upper steering rubber bearing, steering wheel needs to be removed, not a fun task. Aftermarket replacements are available, they also make a needle bearing replacement which I ave used but don't feel it is necessary.
    steeringboxadjust1 001.jpg steeringboxadjust1 001.jpg steeringboxadjust2 001.jpg
     
  8. alchemy
    Joined: Sep 27, 2002
    Posts: 20,407

    alchemy
    Member

    Well, those instructions are way better than I guessed at.

    Yes the upper bushing is rubber, and 85 year old rubber is no good. I've seen replacement bushings with a bronze sleeve inside so the bronze is what rubs on the inner shaft. A much better solution.

    To get the old one out it might be done with some long construction screws turned down into the rubber, then grab them with pliers. Or you may need to slip the column off the shaft and push from below with a long pipe. It might be wise to pull the column off anyway, because you don't want any of those rubber bits to break off and slide down into the top bearing of the box. Should be a felt seal at the top of the box, but it may have disintegrated too after all these years.
     
  9. rusty valley
    Joined: Oct 25, 2014
    Posts: 3,883

    rusty valley
    Member

    for the upper shaft bushing you can use a wheel bearing for a wheel barrow from the hardware store. usually, the rubber falls apart, not sticking like you are thinking, but..who knows until you look at it. under the steering wheel, which is a project because you cant get the light switch rod out without unbolting the steering box.
     
  10. And I am embarrassed to ask...but I am confused as to where this upper shaft bushing is located???

    I really believe that this bearing is what is causing the steering to be so stiff. It is stiff enough that with the front wheels off the ground, I can't grip both tires and move them side to side.

    But where is the bearing in the steering column???
     
  11. rusty valley
    Joined: Oct 25, 2014
    Posts: 3,883

    rusty valley
    Member

    in the tube under the steering wheel. thats why its hard to get. light rod-out, steering wheel off, then maybe pick it out, but most likely take the column loose from the dash and pull that off too. the new bearing just falls into place, a half a day later
     
  12. The OEM lighting switch (ie, turning the horn button) no longer functions. The lighting rod on the truck might already be out. The light switch is now located on a separate circuit since the conversion from 6 volt to 12 volt. Dunno if that simplifies the process here.

    Could anyone walk me through how to remove the horn button and removal of the steering wheel?
    I assume it is straight forward, but don't want to be surprised.

    And dropping the column seems simple enough by unbolting the two nuts on either side of the column up under the dash.

    Thank you, everybody, for walking me through this process. It helps a ton. I appreciate the education here.
     
  13. rusty valley
    Joined: Oct 25, 2014
    Posts: 3,883

    rusty valley
    Member

    if you still have the stock horn button/ light switch on the steering wheel, they must have left the bottom of the column intact or else you can just pull the horn/light rod out. if not, then they moved the light wiring and switch, but left the keeper in the bottom. look at the very bottom of the steering box, where a straight line of the steering column and shaft would exit thru the gear box. at the end, there should be a two prong fork showing, with a spring behind it. push in on the fork, and underneath is a small C clip. may have to have some one hold the horn button while you push the fork, but once that C clip is off, the horn rod pulls out from the top. here's where the problem starts. the rod is longer that the room you have in the cab. they are thin tubing that can not be bent or then they will drag every time you turn the steering wheel. it runs thru the center of the steering shaft that the steering wheel is mounted on. an original is a valuable thing. so, when there is not enough room to just pull it out, then you start unbolting other stuff until you have room. first, remove pitman arm and 3 bolts that hold the box to the frame. next the two bolts under the dash. now, ive never had a pickup, so you decide, if there is room to just move the whole column off to the side to get the rod out? or would it be easier to remove the back window and pull out there? or is there room to get the steering box out of the hole in the frame and let it fall on the floor? and then, theres the wheel itself. there is not threaded holes for a normal steering wheel puller like later stuff. some guys drill and tap two holes for a puller, and some guys improvise a way to use a 3 jaw puller grabbing some home made stuff under the wheel so you dont wreck it. they are some what fragile, and again valuable. like i said before, 1/2 a day later, you just pull the rod out. good luck, best wishes
     
  14. rusty valley
    Joined: Oct 25, 2014
    Posts: 3,883

    rusty valley
    Member

    i will also add this, over at the barn you say you think a king pin is seized, here you think its in the column. so, do this first, unhook the steering box. either take off the big nut on the sector shaft, get a puller for the pitman arm, or take the end of the drag link apart and off. now, you should be able to determine if its an axle problem, or a steering box problem. with one of those disconnected, the steering wheel should turn with zero effort, and when jacked up the front wheels should turn from side to side with zero effort also
     
  15. Here's the thing...I don't know which one is the culprit. It could be both. I can't say, although some other voices are ready to make a diagnosis, which I am reluctant to do at this point. Assumptions at this point could lead to lots of unnecessary work or $$$ or broken parts.

    All I know so far is that the grease joint in the passenger kingpin won't take grease. Now why it won't, we don't know yet. So regardless of anything else that MIGHT need to be addressed, I know the grease fitting needs attention.

    My thought is to start there.

    I bought one of these tools to address the clogged greasepoint. I will try it out today or tomorrow.

    [​IMG]

    So fix the kingpin issue first. Determine if the kingpin is seized or not, and address the suspension first; get it in proper order. Go drive the truck.

    If the problem is not fixed, then go on to other areas that might be the cause. My plan: separate the front end from the steering box by removing the drag link/Pittman arm. See if the problem can be isolated in either the front suspension or in the box/column. If it is in the box and the column, separate those from each other to determine where.

    Does that sound reasonable? I am in unknown waters here. It sounds intimidating, but you guys have been so incredibly helpful that it is a confidence builder.

    My thought is to address the easy tasks first, and leave the most complex to the end, hoping that they may not be necessary.
     
    Last edited: Apr 21, 2019
  16. Kinda late to the party, here; but I can't imagine that the rubber bushing in the column tube could be the cause of your steering problem. I've taken many columns apart and never came across a bushing that was anything other than worn.

    When you mentioned that when jacked up; you can not turn it by moving the tires, can you feel any play at all? Can you feel any difference if you try to move the left tire as compared to the right? Should be able to tell if the kingpin bushing is stiff or seized by the feel.

    You may want to take out the zerk and dig out the old grease in the passage before trying the hammer thing. If it doesn't get grease going, sometimes careful application of heat can do the trick.
     
  17. alchemy
    Joined: Sep 27, 2002
    Posts: 20,407

    alchemy
    Member

    Yes, easiest stuff first. Remove the old zerk (wouldn't hurt to do ALL of them), scrape out the gunk, and install new zerks to pump a ton of clean grease thru. With the truck jacked up and the wheels in air, pump in grease. Then have a buddy push and pull the wheels as you pump so grease can go in and around all sides of the kingpins.

    About a $1.50 investment and an hour of time. Worth a try.
     
  18. Good plan. Love it, love it. Bought new fittings yesterday. On the schedule today, after Easter lunch with the family.
     
  19. jimgoetz
    Joined: Sep 6, 2013
    Posts: 517

    jimgoetz
    Member

    I replaced the top bushing that was in very bad condition with one with the bronze insert and couldn't believe how much easier it steered. I did have to pull the column off to do it.
     
  20. While we take a break for Easter Sunday, please enjoy a musical interlude. Manfred Mann, "I'm Your Kingpin"


     

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