I'm gonna be buying a 1954/early 1955 Chevy 3100. It'll need some sheet metal. After looking at some new parts, I had sticker shock! Being that I live in the southeast, original sheet metal usually holds up. I need opinions: Find good original metal or save up and get new sheet metal? I know originals will probably need a tad bit more work than new steel but I prefer original Detroit steel and save that money for another project.
Sounds like you answered your own question. You prefer original, and live where it is available. New sheet metal almost always is inferior to a good original piece.
My 46 Olds has excellent panels apart from cowl vent and minor floor rust however from time to time I see NOS panels on E-Bay, fenders, trunk etc etc for reasonable prices. I'd love to buy them for spares as my Olds wasn't sold down here, however freight here is the killer. In saying that I picked up a NOS rear gravel tray and had it shipped here. It was more cost effective than putting in the time and effort to repair the original fatigue cracked and dented one that was on the car.
as far as cost it all depends on wether you are paying for the labor to repair or doing it your self. labor can add up fast plus don't forget blasting/stripping costs. even the best n.o.s. stuff will need a couple hours to prep for primer. Rough example: used fender $125 sandblast cost $90 hammer and dolly time 2hrs@$70/hr =$140 couple pin holes/cracks/rust holes [?] 1-4 hrs @70/hr= $70-$280 final body work [?]1-4 hrs @70/hr =$70-280 labor for the used fender total $495-$1050 yes, there will also be some time to make the new parts fit, and there will probably be "flaws" in them. I just wanted to show, you need to really study the used parts and do the math. I prefer original parts but sometimes they are not cost efficient.
Go original if it's available. Even the new panels will need massaging, so why bother. Plus, when asked, you can say that it's All original! Happy Hunting.
If you can find an OK shape original you will probably put as much time into it as you would fitting a repro. I'd go original.
I have very limited experience with new sheet metal, but it hasn't been good. I have much more experience with used sheet metal...it's a lot of work, but at least the parts did mostly fit, once. So they can usually be made to fit again.
Ive not ever gotten new Sheetmetal that didn’t need work. Pull it out of the box bolt it on and paint it is a fantasy.
Spend lots of hours perfecting old parts or spend lots of hours perfecting new parts. Old parts usually come with cracks, dents and old paint. New parts are clean but need fittment. No original part ever fit like we see new cars fitting. Meaning if you want better than the factorys original tolerances ya gonna have to modify any part you use. Moral of the story is pick which ever poison taste the best.
What's your sheet metal skill level? If your a Mig welder and Body Man-in-a-Can kind of guy go the cheapest/fastest route. If you can do good metal work and want things right your better off with O.E. pieces. No matter what choice you make you need a good assortment of tools and twice more Time than you think it will take.
Original, the repop parts I've used are usually thinner metal and close to fitting but all required some work to fit right. I would use good original parts if available every time.
This question always makes me smile . The best answer always depends on who is going to be doing the work and the circumstances at the time. Aftermarket parts wouldn't exist if good origionals were plentiful . When I can find good originals without looking and waiting till my project rusts to the ground or my kids grow up and go to college, I buy and use them. If I can't find them in a reasonable amount of time, I buy repo's and get the car to the next step. This is a hobby and most that are doing this are not sheet metal working experts so they need the easiest parts to work over and fit available. I can make whatever I want from a piece of sheet metal so I only consider my time either way. As far as being able to tell everyone its all original is a joke on a hotrod. If you are restoring an original it matters but hot rods are a mix match of parts intentionally . Everyone needs to consider their own circumstances. .
It depends on the sheet metal you need. Bolt on parts like fenders, hoods, trunk lids etc., if you can find saveable original parts, as others have said they'll fit better than repops. For parts like cab corners, rockers, cowl panels etc., your chances of finding a rust free body to cut them out of are slim. If you find a rust free body, use the whole shell. I have experience with various EMS, Brookville and United Pacific parts, they all need some tuning to make them fit, but an 80% panel is still a lot less work than starting with a flat sheet. Regarding metal gauge, some EMS panels are thicker than the originals, which can also making joining to original metal more work.
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