Technical Another Zips Riser question

So, I read all the threads on here but I still have a couple of questions
If I’m running a tripower set up, I was told to block off the by pass on the manifold to prevent excess heat on the center carb, correct ?
If yes, then where do I connect the bypass from the heater hose ?
I’m not running a heater, so would it be ok to either cap the outlet or run it into the manifold ?
Last one, please explain drilling holes in the thermostat ?
Thanks guys in advance


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The central port is heated by exhaust gas not water ,,when you get your gasket set it will have the metal plates ,,plain and with holes ,,use the plain ones that insert the gasket hole,,the water by pass is at the front of manifold ,,,

 

Ok so where does it attach to the manifold !
Thanks

 

Doesn't attach to the manifold, attaches to a fitting you install in the pass. side head. IIRC, it'[s between #6&#8. Drilling the thermostat simply means a few 1/8-3/16" holes around the perimeter of the thermostat in the area between where the vlave seats and the outer flange which seats into the housing cast into the manifold.

 

Something like this, Dean.

 

.............and if you mean the bypass where a heater hose would be (if you were using one), you can either block off the ports with pipe plugs or use the one in the intake for your temp sender,

 

Thanks guys, I must be thick in the head !
I’m still not clear on exactly where the heater hose off the pump goes. I’m just not familiar with SBC ‘s. I’ll look more closely to find where the place on the passenger side head is, what fitting do I use ?
Thanks @ dirty and Don.
Hey Don, wear a hat that says Don so I’ll spot you at Jalopyrama

 

Just plug the hole. Instructions say to run a hose to the left head. My old coupe I just plugged the line. No issues. Just my opinion.

 

I was thinking that but I wonder if there is a down side that ? How long have you been running it like that ?
Thanks

 

Ok, is this it ?

 

thats it !!! i had camera in hand headed to the garage. i've seen old instructions (right here on the HAMB if i recall) that refers to a hose from that plug to the smaller heater core output on the pump. not sure which route i'm going with mine . i may plug the pump output and see how it goes . if water doesnt circulate well i may go with the hose to the pump.

 

Thanks man, didn’t know you were running one as well. I kinda hate the look of a heater pipe going across the engine. If it’s ok just to plug it I think I’ll go that route.

 

I have a friend that runs one that is plugged and hasn't had any heating problems. That water outlet looks like a goiter or some other grotesque appendage. I noticed that the wall was thicker toward the pump. I cut it off and tapped it for a pipe plug. Much more sanitary IMO. Bill

 

Thanks @Stude, I like that, looks very neat and tidy

 

Don’t do that !
One, just one little itty bitty tiny winny hole is all you need.

 

There’s no need for it, but it aids in letting air out for initial filling instead of babysitting and burping it. You can get them with a toggler too.
Quite useful if you’re planning on filling and draining often.

Since you’re bypassing the heater core your air entrapment will be minimal and quite easily remedied.
Understand though that eliminating the heater core and plugging the circulation hoses could possibly cause some water circulation problems. Swisscheeded thermostats isn’t the answer anymore than removing the thermostat

 

Thanks @ Vicky, what’s your opinion of blocking off the heater hose ?

 

I ran the zips riser on my old beater for darn near 30 years and until a few weeks ago I had a plug were the heater house would be, I now have a heater in the car.

I never experienced any overheating problems. HRP

 

Thanks
Sounds like a plan !

 

I edited my post
Opinion there

 

You are correct about not needing to drill ant holes in the thermostat, and the zips riser has a screw in the top to bleed any air that gets trapped, Randy Nash told me about a bleeder valve that makes it simpler.

I believe you will have to drill and tap the new valve, I always used the original screw. HRP

 

Thanks HRP

 

I didn't know anything about the reliability or performance of the water pump riser when i installed mine so i followed the instructions that came with it and installed the bypass from the pump back to the head. It is the red hose in the pic below. My install is not very clean (could have been done cleaner). I have never had any problems with this either.

But going by input from others, if you can run cool without this extra hose, i would do so.

Mine is still on the road as you see it in this pic.

 

Parts store source of bleeder.

 

Thanks appreciate it !

 

If you don't run the bypass hose and you do run a thermostat your engine temperature will cycle up and down quite a bit, opening and closing the thermostat. The bypass hose keeps the engine at a constant and efficient operating temperature.

 

How about a lil loop from the barb on the pump to a fitting in the intake? Still under the t-stat...?

 

That’s the way,
The example above has a long red hose,,,
I’d run a hard line polished or black following the valve cover. However around here you’ll need heat and defroster quite a bit

 

Appreciate the suggestions, a small loop to where on the intake ? Heater house outlet in front ? I would think a pipe going under the headers would get kinda hot, not helping cooling. You’re talking about two different solutions, right ?


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Just plug it. Only one hole needed in the tstat. Use the Dorman bleeders. You can go drive then.