Your subrails aren't sacred. Just Z the frame back there a bit and trim the inside of the subrails a little. If you want a hot rod you have to cut a little metal.
Similar to guitar's suggestion, raises the rear cross-member for added clearance. Looks like it would entail some sub-rail work. ( FYI the ends of the tube and boxed A frame were filled when completed)
I never understood that frame of theirs It’s supposed to take an A body without modification to body or sub rails and get the important part of a 32 frame under it. Its going to be a high boy and that’s that. Until you want to lower it and now nothing is right and everything you paid for is useless. All of that convenience is gone. We’ve got to modify the “innovative” part of the frame back to traditional practices and then cut the body which this was supposed to stay intact. I can see why nobody would want to do that what the hell do they do with all the 32 tails anyway?
No, axle tube will hit first and i still have clearance at the driveshaft loop crossmember. If the rear gets notched for clearance plus the 2" for compression it might get close. I will get some better pictures tomorrow Model A coupe. And there is a body mount at the rear most framerail. This was one idea I had if it would be strong enough?
I got a deal on the frame, so now I have to work with what I got. Looking back I should have done full 32 rails. With the funny rear crossmember the body goes right on without any modification it just sits really high in the rear. I have a 7.50-16 tire and the wheelwell body line was 4" above the tire. I want it where it is now, just following the top of the tire. How it sat before I switched to the lower coilover hole.
Yes, it will be plenty strong enough. You have to have overlap of the two rails. Rich B's pic I am reposting below is how you would do it. Close in the ends of the box and original frame and weld everything all around. If you need to drop the crossmember to where it was, add another piece of box tubing under the first higher piece you welded in. Effectively creating a C-notch--see the second pic for reference. Yes, you will probably have to make mods to the body to get it to sit back down. I know it's not a hot rod, but you get the idea of the C-notch with the front and rear original framing.
Now you know why you got a deal on it That’s your normal high boy stance Bottom of frame (lowest line) thru center of wheel. It’s lifted 4x4, ground clearance You ain’t stuck with it, just bite the bullet and change it.
Add body weight, a tank of gas, either rear seat passengers or a trunk full and a rough road. You are in trouble. Change the kick on the frame. Warren
This might help, I had a similar problem and C’d the crossmember to provide clearance. Added a piece of same size square tube, then made the cut out.
I assume the appearance of this is due to some front-to rear angling of the C-notch tubing, which makes the two notches look totally mis-aligned.
I had to rake the rear tails way up in order to get this to set right like four inches up to get the car Four inches down Its not to terribly difficult Figure out exactly what you want and draw up exactly what you want Put it together Wrap the edge with some Strap And it's a frame, It was boxed later Here you can see the lowest line is far below the rear tire centerline
I noticed that myself----just a quick pic I grabbed off the net. I was more trying to drive my point of carrying the front and rear halves up and over the axle for him.
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