Hot Rods Small block Chevy radiator

I'm struggling to find a rad to suit my willys sedan. Current one Has a leak and is a bit too deep so hangs a bit low
Questions I have are is a 2 core with 1" tubes enough for a mild tune 350?
As my radiator is lower than the motor I will be using a manifold filler and this is the main reason I'm struggling to find a suitable replacement. With This filler I can't fit the oil fil tube in the manifold so would a radiator with both inlet and outlet on the passenger side be a problem? I have seen some late model oem vehicles with this arrangement but wasn't sure if there was something different internally?
If this is ok I can flip the filler and get my oil tube In.
Lastly has anyone got any feedback on northern radiator kits where you place the inlet/outlet where you want it?

Sorry if any of these have been asked before I did do a search but couldn't find the information I was looking for
Luke

 

I use early Mustang radiators in 2 cars with SBCs. Inlet and outlet on the passenger side. Both work fine. Both have an oil filler tube leaning to the drivers side.

Gary

 

Cross flow or vertical flow ?
You will have problems with crossflow with both outlets & Inlet on the same side of the tank if tank is Straight through,Vertical not as much, better if on opposite sides of the radiator ,There's other tricks you can do with the small block or any motor , Run a crossover on the backside of the intake side to side or from backside of the intake back to the radiator ,or drill the front of the heads to the radiator,If you really want to get creative you can make your filler In back of the intake ,drill modifications or use like 69 corvette Style over flow tank with radiator cap mounted to the fire wall plumed to the backside of the intake .there's lots of options.

 

It's cross flow the reason I asked is if you buy an ls conversion radiator for say a corvette then some have both on passenger side. Thanks for the options kind of what I expected but I'm trying to simplify the system willys is on the road and don't fancy stripping it down to change things too much. It's currently running the pcv in the oil fill hole on a short tube with no baffle in the inlet and it's burning oil so was hoping to avoid buying a new inlet and radiator but if that's the easiest option then that's the way I'll have to go as I don't want to get into machining unless anyone else has an idea
Thanks
Luke

 

Hi Luke , what I am visioning/ describing & have done . Use common hand tools . Use one of the heater / temp sender holes ( on intake ) to get water in system ,
You can get a pice of copper that goes from 5/8 -1inch on one side ( reducer ) @ a commercial plumbing store.

The other side 1-1/2 --- 2inch , solder on big end a female radiator cap neck ,

On back side of intake both sides there a water port that is blocked off on most intakes ,
( might be a rib but sand /grind off )you can drill a hole pipe tap 1/2- 3/4 pipe (cheap from Harbor Freight $10)

Some of the other hose routing Was for helping Circulate the water for cooling purposes or also for filling,
Typical hose clamp worm clamp will hold 100psi
Cooling System 20psi or less

 

I'm hoping to eliminate the need for a header tank. I've done a little research and am I right in thinking with both inlet/outlet on the passenger side what I need is a double pass radiator?
My next question will then be if the radiator I buy has a filler in is there any issue if I have this welded over? As it will be tight under the fender and with the rad being lower than the motor the filler needs to be higher. Apologies if this is basic stuff but it's all new to me and want to make sure what I buy is suitable
Thanks
Luke

 

No issue , you can just use a cap or seal over / weld ,
The divider will send the coolant threw the core instead basically just in & out when inlet & outlet are on same side of cross flow .