I am looking for tips on how to put a 1/16" cable back in the sheath. I know better but I pulled the sheath off to cut it and now can't get it back in. Once in I can finish up the back up door opener for my shaved handles. The cable just doesn't stay unfrayed when I go to push it through.
Try a little solder on the end to hold it together Might have to file the solder down to size to get it through the sheath. Also an angle cut on the cable end helps. Sent from my SM-G950U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Grind a slight taper on the end and then rotate it in the direction of the twist while pushing it thru Sent from my Nexus 5X using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Corny and No help but this reminds me of a joke a old guy I use to work with told me years ago.... A Rope walks into a bar and orders a drink, The bar tender says, We dont serve ropes in here, so the rope leaves and ties himself into a knot and ruffles the ends of his strands then comes back in and orders again...The bartender says, arent you the rope that was just in here, and the rope says no, Im "a frayed knot"...
I was actually thinking black tape, then cut it at the edge of the tape to keep it from fraying in the first place but using this might work better???
Is it a rubber sheath? If so there's a special tool. Looks like a set of molegrips but has three prongs coming out. You insert the in the sheaf and they open it out evenly allowing you to insert the cable bundle. Your local proctologist probably has something similar.... Sent from my moto g(6) play using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
The right answer is the solder. The trick is to have the end as tightly wound as possible and as tight as the cable was made as new. To achieve that I wrap the cable tightly with masking tape and then cut it quickly with a very thin cut off disc. Remove the tape and dip the end in paste flux. Lightly heat the end taking care to not get the strands too hot because they’ll start to unravel. When the flux melts and flows add a little solder coming on and off with the torch flame. Solder will hold the wires together and you can smooth the cable end and remove any excess solder with a small fine file.
^^ That's how I made new side tension cables for my OT 66 Fairlane convertible years ago before they were reproduced, no other options were available then and they're necessary on a convertible. A lot easier to then slide the cable through new flexible outer sheath and then swage/crimp new springs and ends on. I've done the same for hood cables and used those screw on ends to hold latch lever.
Cut with a cable cutter helps not fray the end, too. I have an older version of this one that I bought in my bike shop mechanic days. The jaws are angled in, to pack the cable in on itself, so it doesn’t fray when cut. Kind of an unusual specialty tool to have now, it only gets used a couple of times a year, but nothing cuts cable as nicely as a cable cutter. https://www.thebikesmiths.com/products/cn-10 Sent from my iPad using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Also, route and cut your housing first. Then insert the cable. Then cut the cable to length. That way you get the factory end going through the housing, less likely to snag on you that way. Sent from my iPad using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Why not solder starting outside of the desired cut place and work back to it so as to minimize heat in the cable and then cut?
I second David G and the bicycle cable cutters. It works. Only got to cut 1 cable in this lifetime? Take the cable to your local bike shop and ask nicely. Tip the mechanic when done.
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