Technical MODEL A INNER CHANNEL BOXING PLATES?

Since Model A frames are really simple, The time it would take making these fit, I'd just as soon use the stock crossmembers and make new rails.

 

I'm not sure where you see such issue making these fit. I don't have a frame table at my disposal nor the room for one, so I like these as an option. The cost is comparable enough to flat plates and they will compensate for any weak spots in my frame while retaining the stock rails. If I wanted the filled look though, I would certainly be interested in making rails with 4" tube over working with a stock frame.

 

That's a great looking product and as cheap or cheaper than standard flat plate Model A boxing kits.
Must be a helluva press brake they have.

Looking at them with that nice taper has me seeing them as a good start for a modified frame. Just box them in with some flat plate and add a rear kick up...

 

My neighbor, an old-timer, was over the other day inspecting my progress and said essentially the same thing about being able to make a frame out of them. They are essentially just a slightly smaller Model A rail at the end of the day. You'd end up with something between a T and an A frame if you did that. I'd pay special attention to where they are split in the center however.

 

@patmanta I'm wondering what your thoughts on these are, this far out? I'm shopping around and I'm either am going to look into getting some plate cut to inset box welding plates or buy these. The only crossmember staying is the front but I want to retain the stock rails and their look...

 

Depends on what you're going to run for power, how good your frame is, and how anal you want to be about being period correct I'd say. I don't think I'd recommend them for the Sugar House Special unless you're dropping a big HEMI in there.

I came to the conclusion that the best way to use them was to make some sort of offset standoffs inside to properly space them out from the frame to weld them. Otherwise they will want to sink in all the way and I was a bit incredulous about welding them in on the edge radius like that.

I ended up just buying some 1/8" x 4" flat stock and cutting & chamfer grinding my own plates. I still have my Code 504 channel plates in my pile for future use on a car that needs the extra beef.

You cannot beat the price on these things though. I was very happy with the quality level.

 

The Sugar House Spl. is getting two legs fabbed from a junk frame off of a center cross-member and that's it.

The boxing plates are for my 60s era 1930 Coupe build, which is likely getting a warmed up 327, 4 speed and a narrowed Olds/Pontiac rear out back. The frame is getting set up with a minor engine set back, hair pins, real ladder bars (like for drag racing, not P&J stuff). In looking at pictures I see that most boxing was pretty crude back then but I am going to have to box it.

I wish more people used them so I could see some pics and make a decision there. Part of me wants to do like Ionia does and weld pieces of bar stock set in far enough for plates to sit against and inset a set of Wolfe's boxing plates. I like that look, too.

 

Well, I think that's enough grunt to justify adding this much beef to your stock A frame, but you would be fine with Wolfe's plates too.

I'm probably going to get his drilled & dimpled plates on my next frame but I'm not putting anything crazier than a B banger or a 265 SBC in it.

 

While this seems like it would be great, after boxing my frame with tabbed plates I have my doubts. Maybe mine was not normal, but I would think fitting and welding these would take longer than normal plates. I don't think these frames are dimensionally accurate enough for this kind of precision.

 

I think when I use them, I'm going to drill 4 holes (2 at each end) in each section and tap them for 1/4" machine screws so I can dial my offset in to get what I want.

But It's going to be a while before I build something in an A frame with enough grunt to make me feel that I NEED to use these Uberplates.

 

I prefer using a flat plate and welding corner to corner and just clean up with a sander good and strong and a lot less weight.

 

Bttt

 

My original plan called for using these. My thoughts were that if these channels held a really nice side to side size tolerances I would clamp the original rails down to fit these channels and create some very nice looking uniform frame rails.

But I never found a frame that had good frame horns so I just built my own from 2x4 tube.

Wouldn't have a problem using these at all.

 

I am gathering parts for a Av8 build. I already have a full set of Wolfes solid plates. I ended up not boxing my banger frame, so these are left over. I like these channels though, but will stick with what I have for this build. I think I am going with a F1 steering box, so I will need to leave that section open anyway.