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Hot Rods Unidentified early Ford straight axle - need help

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by gpohl6, Apr 11, 2019.

  1. gpohl6
    Joined: Sep 22, 2013
    Posts: 78

    gpohl6
    Member

    I need some help identifying what was the source of the early Ford front (straight) axle I have and hope to use for an upcoming project. This axle may have been from an early truck...perhaps a Model AA? The dimension between the kingpin center holes on top of the axle is 50 & 3/8" as closely as I can measure and the perch hole centers are spaced 36 & 5/8" apart. The drop from the top of the inner edges of the kingpin holes to the top of the I beam in the center is 4". I hope to use this to build a "cut down" style modified race car replica as a street rod (only! not to be races) and need to know what spindles and wishbones I can use. I have good 42-48 spindles with king pins and bushing all fitted and hones, and split wishbones with overall length from the center of the perch hole to the end of the (welded in ) bung is 45". Since I bought parts separately and over the years, my recall is sketchy about source, but I can mention that the opening in the wishbone axle mounting end is significantly wider that the axle height oriented in the installed direction. Are there bearing and/or spacers used to locate the axle in the opening as there is at the kingpin through axle location? (Assuming I have come close to making myself clear??!!) Any help or advice is greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.
     
  2. Fordors
    Joined: Sep 22, 2016
    Posts: 5,407

    Fordors
    Member

    From your description it sounds like your axle might be ‘32-‘36, and if you know how the ‘32 axle looks and yours is not like that then it is ‘33-‘36. The perch bolt boss on those axles will measure 2”, and your split wishbone is likely 2 1/4”. The length you mention for the bones and them not fitting the axle suggests they are ‘37-‘48. You can use a 1/4” thick spacer, like a heavy washer to fit the bones to the axle. BTW, the ‘28-‘31 axles are also 2 1/4” at the perch boss. For a positive ID can you post pics?
     
  3. Tim
    Joined: Mar 2, 2001
    Posts: 17,196

    Tim
    Member
    from KCMO

    Yeah you need to post a photo
     
  4. 1946caddy
    Joined: Dec 18, 2013
    Posts: 2,076

    1946caddy
    Member
    from washington


  5. I was under the impression (stongly) that the standard 32 axle looks just like the 33-36 axle. The '32 heavy axle is thicker/heavier. I have both hanging in my garage for comparrison.
     
  6. Fordors
    Joined: Sep 22, 2016
    Posts: 5,407

    Fordors
    Member

    No such thing as a “standard” ‘32 axle. In early 1933 there was a composite axle, it had the ‘32 style I-beam web in the center and the outer ends were like the more often seen ‘33-‘36 axle. I have only seen that ‘33 axle in photos. If an original appearing ‘32 is seen with the later axle it had been installed as a service item after a wreck for example.
     
  7. gpohl6
    Joined: Sep 22, 2013
    Posts: 78

    gpohl6
    Member

    As suggested by others, here is a photo of the axle in question. Thanks for the link. Actually, before posting this query, I had checked on several links, not wanted to either both other members to do my "work" for me, and not wanting to sound "too stupid". My search did not result in a satisfactory answer, thus my post. I have checked some other measurements and they are these. The KP boss in 2.375", and the spring perch boss is 1.912 (perhaps resulting for nearly a century of exposure to the elements). The KP hole is .801" and the perch hole is .680". To restate, the KP center to center is 50&3/8" and the perch hole center to center is 36& 5/8" assuming my old eyes accurately read the measuring device! So that points to a 1932 Model B...except for the 4" drop ( which I measured from the inner lip of the KP hole side to side to the top of the beam in the center of the axle (4" NOT the 2" to 2.5" called for on the various lists! So...I still need help. The original seller had long since removed it from the vehicle but recalled that he felt it had been on a larger truck. Is my guess anywhere near correct? Again, thanks for any and all input!
     

    Attached Files:

  8. That is a 33 to 36 axle. you will need a 1/4 inch spacer to close the gap in the wish bones when using 37 up wish bones. your 46 48 spindles will work just fine on there. I tend to buy these axles and use them in my projects, I like how they look when dropped, and not near as expensive as a 32 axle.
     
    dana barlow likes this.
  9. here is a 33 to 36 axle I had dropped and just put together and put under my 39 Tudor. If done right, I think the drop looks as good as a 32 axle dropped.

    Resized_20190406_153520_2150 (1).jpeg
     
  10. Fordors
    Joined: Sep 22, 2016
    Posts: 5,407

    Fordors
    Member

    Keep in mind that drops are called out by the dimension you gave but the actual drop is the distance of a stock axle plus the amount it was altered. A Model A axle has a factory drop of 1” and the ‘32-‘36 axles are 2”, so if we have an A axle dropped 2” it is referred to as a 3” axle. Drop the later axle that same 2” and you have a 4” dropped axle. Hot rod speak can be confusing at times.
     
    OFT likes this.
  11. 1946caddy
    Joined: Dec 18, 2013
    Posts: 2,076

    1946caddy
    Member
    from washington

    Did you use the 33-36 wishbone or alter the 39 wishbone?
     
  12. gpohl6
    Joined: Sep 22, 2013
    Posts: 78

    gpohl6
    Member

    This is my first venture into the old Ford stuff in the last 60 years or so (I had a 1947 Ford business coupe at age 14-15 but never had to remove the front end as it was a driver). All I know is I found a set of wishbones...off an unidentified Ford vehicle while scrounging for parts. May have been from the same guy where I got the axle 10 years ago. I split the bones and TIG welded in the 5/8 fine thread bungs and they ended up at 45" in length. There are no spring shackle mounts and I intend to build a chassis and suicide mount the spring in front with enough kick up for clear operation of the tie rod and drag link if I use one. I may bolt on a steering arm and run a link in the line of travel and possibly use a sprint car steering box. Just trying to get a few ducks in a row first. May not be able to make much progress this summer, as things are "cropping up" but pressing ahead anyway. Might simply weld lower shock mounts onto the front end of the bones...nothing cast in bronze yet. Sorry to be so poorly informed, but I am building a cut down, not restoring one of Henry's creations, so...
     

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