My 283 is having flooding issues. It currently fires right up, sounds great for about 20 seconds then floods out. ( bought it this way... ) The previous owner said the guy he bought it from had a tunnel ram with two 4bbls on it. Currently it has an edelbrock 1406 that I just pulled off to rebuild. I thought maybe I would find a stuck float needle, maladjusted or sunk float, but everything seems fine. The guy I got it from said it just needs a return line to the fuel tank...? I have had return lines on diesels, but have never seen one on a gas engine. I suspect that the fuel pump is putting out too much pressure. It's a red Holley pump and I can't make out the numbers on it. What would you guys recommend for pump pressure for the carb I've got? Thanks
Says on the internet that that pump is set for seven pounds which is too high to set it for 4 lb Sent from my SM-J737T using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Great pump, but they need a regulator. From past experience it's best to keep these carbs between four and five pounds.
Any recommendations for a regulator? I had a Mr Gasket on my last car and found out that they had terrible reviews...
Holley and offenhauser both make regulators in the $30 ish range. The offy looks like the mr gasket one the holley more contemporary looking
I had the same trouble after fitting a new fuel pump (too much pressure) on my 350 SBC.. To fix it, I ran a 3/16 brake line parallel and secured to the main fuel line, from the steel inlet pipe at the carb, back down to the inlet side of the pump, bronzed a short piece of 3/16 pipe into it (T joint) and connected it with a piece of rubber fuel line for vibration.. Started the engine with a pressure gauge hooked up, and slowly/carefully crimped the return line with pliers, until the correct pressure was achieved.. It also lets the working pressure drop to zero (no carb leaks and stops flooding) when the engine is turned off.. It was still in place when I sold the car years later..
From previous threads on here, approximately 50% say that the cheaper holley doesn’t work. Others have said run a return line as it works with one. My holley sits on the bench, and I bought an expensive 1-5 lb blocking regulator, which turned out to be a bi-pass regulator and I ended up running a return line any way, but only to before the fuel pump. The new 7lb fuel pump I bought ran at over 9lb. Although I am running different carbs, the principles are the same.
So I could just run a return line as the po said? Just two "T" fittings in the fuel line, before and after the pump? That seems to be the way some of these regulators work...
Seriously though, money's a little tight right now, and the only regulators with good reviews are pricey. Can I get away with just the return line?
An orifice in a return line isn't really a regulator...but it might work. this regulator might work... https://www.summitracing.com/parts/hly-12-804/overview/
Thanks for the advice. I went ahead and ordered the Summit version of the Holley regulator. Looks identical, $8 cheaper, great reviews...
If you put a stock fuel pump on it will do away will all the BS that goes with an electric pump. Looks like you have the room for it. Go to the junk yard and get a fuel pump plate and the push rod off some dead 70's truck, and pick up a $30 dollar Mechanical pump at the parts store on the way home. you don't need a regulator with that, and you don't need the electric fuel pump, sell the pump to someone for 50 bucks and your out no money, with a more reliable set up. Electric Pumps are for Race cars, Fuel injection and for when you don't have room for one on the motor. you have the room. Make it simple and swap it out.
I actually did that assuming it would fit and it was a no-go. I would much rather have a mechanical pump, but it hits the model T frame.
I have heard on here that You can also get a electric fuel pump for the likes of VWs that put out less pressure, may be worth looking into.
Just to clarify, I was suggesting a return line with a regulator (bi-pass). Not the return line only.
To original poster, I started a thread on regulators and bi-pass lines, maybe have a look at that. https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/a-couple-of-questions-sbc-fuel-pressure-problems.860941/ .
Ive seen many "stock" parts store pumps put out up to 9 psi. Just put a holley dead head reg. on it , I've got 50k miles and 18 years on mine without problems ...
Actually, when I started this post, I was wondering what psi would work best for my carb. It evolved into a regulator post. After reviewing the lower psi pumps, I decided to use the one I have and regulate it.
The pressure any carburetor will tolerate is based on two variables: (1) the buoyancy of the float (2) the orifice diameter of the fuel seat Often, misguided enthusiasts order oversize fuel valve seats to increase fuel flow, and/or smaller floats (increases the volume of the fuel bowl(s) to prevent them running dry. 999 times out of a 1000, either is a bad idea for a street vehicle. Race parts for race cars, street parts for street cars. I have no idea what is in your e-clone, so cannot comment on recommended pressure. My shop truck with 2 genuine Carter AFB's with large floats and 0.101 fuel valve orifices tolerate 7~7.5 psi with no issues. As far as electric pumps in general: http://www.thecarburetorshop.com/Electric_fuel_pumps_and_old_cars.htm Jon
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