Yes Sir, This may not work for me due to my frame design, or lack of it! I have a good idea in mind however. I appreciate the help... Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I'm late to the party on the panhard issue. Yeah, do that differently. At a minimum, go with a J-Bar and lower/higher mounting points I'd say. Also, that flat plate spring mount keeps jumping out at me. The plan is to gusset that, right? You are brave welding in those track pants, LOL!
-For sure on high/low mounts -absolutely more to come on that -Tons of gussets to come -Couple things here... with TIG the heat is very localized so you don’t get nailed with goops of melting material... my biggest issue is getting touched with the hot welding rod... Ouch! Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
I'm mostly just rattling your cage. I used a drilled out 2x4 and several C clamps for a perch mockup at one point
Going back through my build thread in search of reference material was somewhat embarrassing to see the various attempts I made, but that's part of learning I guess. What I ended up with is this mount on the passenger's side axle: And this bracket on the frame driver's side: Kinda sorta overall idea: Conceptual sketch. The panhard goes through the ladder bars and dips below the pumpkin for clearance. The brackets on each end have multiple holes for adjust-ability as clearances are tight, and one end of the bar is threaded for these changes in adjustment. Not super easy to follow, but a picture of current state (minus the newly formed dust): I think you could do something similar. If nothing else, hopefully it gets your brain juices flowing. Carry on!
I really need to get back on my project.... if needed I could probably be persuaded to roll it outside for some better photos. I like what you're doing with your build by the way. Keep it up.
Anyone who wants to know what well thought out suspension looks like, just look at the photos Tim posted. Nice workman ship too.
Took some measurements and laid out some templates... 12” is the measurement so I’m going to split the difference... It’s roughly 15” from center axle to the ground. This measurement was taken to make sure the bar is even to the ground on either side. Sent from my iPad using H.A.M.B.
Luckily the piece of steel was 24” long... so 4 templates were laid out. However each piece needs to be about 1” longer to center the holes at 6” dead... so that kinda stinks, but oh well. I can get 3 mounts from a single strip. Sent from my iPad using H.A.M.B.
Pennafxu Im still lurking here and watching. Keep up the good work. Sent from my smartass phone when it wants toThe H.A.M.B. mobile app
i noticed you measured from the floor, this only makes your car as straight as the floor. You really need a Datum Line to measure off or a surface plate. Center Line gauges work great and you can set a datum line off them.
I skipped a bunch of pages(basically from 10 to 79) just to see where this was going to end up, I got to say, Im pleasantly surprised to see it taking the right direction. I see enough of that scary half-Assed rat rod shit in person, sometimes i look at it just to see how shitty a "car" can be built. Sometimes, I'm even lucky enough to listen to the builder boasting on his "creativity". Ill keep following this one, because i like the fact that you're un-doing the rat shit. Good job
I am following and enjoying you take a Sows Ear and makeing a Silk Purse out of it . Anything to keep the rays off you when Tig Welding is important, there is no smoke off lt like stick Rods to help shield the rays.
Lots of planning!! Since Covid/being a doctor I’ve been working 20 hr days. My life sucks. I need a break. So I’ve decided to H.A.M.B. it up again. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Thanks for all that you and the other health care workers are doing during this time! You have to take care of yourself so that you can continue to take care of the public, so make sure you take the time needed to unwind from the daily stresses. If that includes some small progress on your project great, if not it will still be there when things settle down.
Glad to see you back at it! I don't envy your workload; it's good you're finding some release/relief in your project again for sure.
So I acquired an original 33 coupe body as they have seemed to have grown on me! I’m currently in 2 minds... chop it and put it on my current chassis... or chop the original T and put it on my chassis. The speedster is off the table. As I believe it’s a way to cheat my way out of putting in the hard work of restoring the T body. Finally build the T and build another hot rod 33 3 window on a 33 frame. I really want a running car so I am restoring both bodies. I started de-skinning a partial door...
I will be deleting the middle hinge to fit the chop... Spot weld drill bits... Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
This is a labor of love... Finally apart... Door skin, only the top will be used... Innerds Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
I would save that 33 for a 33/34 frame and build it that way after you get the T on the road. You've been building this chassis for a T body all along so putting the T body down on it will be the best path towards having a nice hot rod on the road sooner than later.
The Jalopy Journal
