Are 7/16 screw in wheel studs unobtanium? I can find press fit all day long everywhere. I have 1990's Strange Engineering axles with two stud patterns. One is 1/2 x 20 on 5 x 4 3/4". The other is 7/16 x 20 on 5 x 4 1/2". Both are threaded for screw in studs. Picture shows 1/2" installed. I have checked Strange Engineering, ARP, Dorman, Speedway, JEGS and EBAY with no joy. Anyone have luck getting these? If I cannot get them how difficult is it to drill and tap the 7/16 to 1/2?
If you have a lathe you could take ARP 100-7701 studs,and turn the knurl down,and thread,or reverse thread the base.They are 3.165 inch long.Another thought....grade 8 bolts.Thread in from the back side,and red lock tight,or tack weld to flange so they don't turn.
I'd try contacting Strange Engineering to get their recommendation. I'm thinking that the 7/16" threaded hole is designed to accept press-in 7/16" studs.
You won't find much joy at McMaster-Carr either. They have them in a 1.75" length, but longer than that they're not fully threaded like you'll need. Interesting that the axles are tapped like that. The 4.75" pattern is Chevy, and OEM stud size for that is 7/16". The 4.5" pattern is Ford/Mopar and OEM they used 1/2" studs. 7/16" bolts are an 'automotive' size, not commonly used in other applications/industries, which is why the selection is more limited. Racers upgrade to 1/2" studs, so there's no call for these. You can re-tap the axles for 1/2" studs, but you'll want to use a drill press or a 'jig' to ensure they're 'square' to the axle face. Don't do it 'freehand'....
Nope, they don't. But they're still my 'go-to' for oddball hardware. Like I said, 7/16" is not a commonly used size outside of automotive. The racers all upgrade to 1/2" studs (or even larger) for superior strength, so there's just no call for the 7/16" stuff in that application.
https://www.dormanproducts.com/gsearch.aspx?type=keyword&origin=keyword&q=stud+7/16 http://www.msirp.com/custom-double-ended-wheel-stud
I get axles from John's and Winters with 1/2 inch X 2 inch screw in studs and they are extra long with plenty sticking out the end of the lug nut. I would think the 7/16 fine X 1.75 socket head bolts offered by McMaster Carr would be adequate in length except for the thickest of aluminum wheels?
I'd say that if the OP is using the old style 'shoulder' lug nuts, you'd be right. But I wouldn't want to use taper-seat nuts... Keep in mind that if the axle flange is 1/2" thick, the usable stud length is now down to 1.25"...
My 1940 Chev drag car with a Pontiac rear had the stock axles & drums drilled for 5 on 4-3/4 threaded with grade 8 cap screw. Who ever did it touched each head with a welder (probably at stick back then) none as ever failed. They were 1/2" - 20 however.
I just drilled and tapped some Moser axles from 1/2" to 5/8" for threaded studs, they drilled and tapped easy so you shouldn't have any problems.
Which type do you require, fine thread end with coarse for nut or other style as there are wheel stud mounting kits available.
Tap drill size for 1/2"-20 is 29/64". Axle flanges drill and tap fairly easily. A drill press is your friend.
Op how much Hp & torque? Weight of vehicle & size tires ? What type of car what kind driving ? ARP will make them but expensive . The most Very important part is wheel/rim to axle flange centering lip correct size . Use bolts from back side ( might have to use 12point ),Red loctite or greater & or safety wire , use appropriate grade Bolt
A 1/2 inch stud and lug nut shank will fit into a chevy wheel, my suggestion is to tap it for the 1/2 inch stud. I just ordered a set of Moser axles in Chevy pattern with ford studs so I can run my Chevy aluminum slots and use my current ford lug nuts.
I am having the same issue. It is for the front wheels/ SalTflats are pretty thick so I wanted to use a longer stud. No one has them 7/16 x 20 x 3"
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