Customs 57 FORD GASSER BUILD

I would think the H+M chaps know what they're up to. I'll go with that!

 

And I don't,just kidding as long as they flow in a circle your good.A well known header builder once told me if you think you can ,then you can and if you think you can't then you won't.I always remember that .

 

I'm not sure why I do this but I do clockwise on the Driver side and counter clockwise on the Passenger side. I had a curious customer ask me why once. I was feeling like a bit of a Smart Ass that day and I told him it was to keep the Exhaust torque rolling the chassis into the Roll Center of the Car. He bought it and has passed it on. I still Chuckell under my breath.

 

I'm a bit OCD on that stuff so I think i'll probably end up doing the same.

 

No huge updates. Just been picking away at the front frame section. Got my spreader bar all tacked in place, need to make a couple end caps and it can all be finished welded and the axle hung.

 

looks clean, how is the knee?

 

Its coming along thanks for asking, I can crawl around again just can't kneel on my left for a while yet. I'm back at the gym and all is feeling good.

 

put a 383 1958 Merc in my brothers "57 custom in 1969. 312HP engine, with a T-85 3-speed. Nice motor. Have fun with your "57.

 

Big day today. Got the axle located and the spring hangers tacked into their final resting place. Loving the look of everything so far. Engine positioning is next!

 

Shes almost a roller! Studs for the tie rod are on the wrong steering arms I know lol.

 

Shes back on 4 wheels! Loving it.
Also got the plates fitted to the engine. Tomorrow night is mockup time.

 

Looking good, you've done a boatload of work in such a short time.

 

What are the casting numbers on the heads? I think the CJ's were D0OE-R.

 

I’ve been watching this build. Looks awesome. Keep up the good work

 

Man you are moving along at a fast clip.

 

Unfortunately they're not the original CJ heads. They've been swapped with a set of early PI heads. They are supposed to be a better street head. CJ sized valves with slightly smaller ports. The block is a true thick web CJ block however.

 

Appreciate the kind words!

 

So i've got the engine mocked up in the front frame. The motor sits nicely between the rails but I may have an issue. The axle is only about 4" from the pan. The drag link will be even closer. I'm at 27" crank center from the floor on the balancer bolt. I'd like to get it down to 24" as per 67' rules. However i don't see how I can lower the engine or the suspension that much. Any ideas?

 

I got looking around at the Shakey Pudding '55 and she wouldn't have any more than 4" between the axle and the underside of the frame. And much less than that between the drag link and pan. I doubt my car will pull the wheels and come down like that honey does so i may be ok?

"Photos borrowed from the build thread, please delete if it's not allowed"

 

A rear sump pan. Like a 429-460 Fox body swap oil pan.

 

Only thing is the drag link will have no clearance with a rear sump. Its path may even want to go through the sump.

 

Dang,, it's all that Math stuff that gets us screwed up eh? If I'm reading this photo right
Judging by your valve cover to master and carb base on tunnel ram to hood latch, looks to me like your motor is mounted way low based on where it would be in stock 57 mount location. Is this correct?

 

I just checked the position of my 292 in my '57 Fairlane, and the engine does look like its sitting low. Good eye PnB.

 

Yes judging by the picture I have of the 289 that came in the car it is sitting a bit low. It can be raised but I'll have to build some fancy brackets for my plates. I'm basing the engine height on the rulebook for gas class cars. My car is not very correct with the later engine ect but I'd like to keep it somewhat correct. I can raise the engine and lower the suspension, its very stiff as is so I would like to remove a leaf. But I still won't make up 3 inches of crank height.

 

What is the angle of the shackles with all the weight on it?

 

Haven't welded the shackle mounts on yet. Used a spacer to mimic the height of the shackle to the spring eye so when the weight is on I can set them at the proper angle.

 

I could give you a valve cover to weld seam if you like. So, were I doing this job the motor would be sitting in Factory location no matter how it was mounted. Reason being is Clutch linkage, why re design something that works just fine? Now that will raise the Crank C/L but may solve some of the other issues. I kind of get the Nose Bleed ride height but you may need to adjust some to fit the rules. I know everybody does it just like you did, in other words you followed the crowd. They may not want to fit the rules you do. What happens when you raise the motor to where it started and then mount your Axle on Top of the springs. Take some time and do some Math and get back to me. Screw the instructions and Screw how everyone else has done it. Make it work for your needs.

 

The crank centerline should be a few degrees up front frame centerline not nose down.

 

The axle over the spring will get it down in a hurry, but might cause more interference issues.
As the Wizard said, work to the clutch cross shaft. The front sump has always caused issues but they can be resolved. Another possibility would be to use a dropped axle. Seems like it's counter productive, but it gets the center of the axle out of the way.

Looking at this, I'd say your WAY HIGH! For a guideline the South East Gassers have a max rocker panel height of around 11".

 

In that picture I've got the carb mounting flange set at 0° which equals about 3-4° downward slope of the engine itself.