Hot Rods Save of the day!!(single seater)

Tough call...I like both...



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I like them both. I will have to stew on it for a few days because I ran out of acetylene. No heating and bending here this weekend.

 

Good idea you have there. I do like to bounce ideas off my friends/online friends.

 

I showed your mockup to Kenny and Gary they were both on the no side. Kenny said it looks like a cow catcher on a train and would serve no purpose on a sprint car and we all know these cars were function over form. What bothers me the most about it is that your top bar is the straight bar. You look at any picture of a dirt car the bottom is always the straight bar. It is not period correct the way you want to build it and you have told me every time we have talked about this car since before you started on it that you want it to look like some kid built it back in the day. Not trying to bust your chops, just trying to push my point across the way you do to me with any of my builds.

 

Well it's not a race car just a loose representation of one. The head lights are going to kill the look more than a low nerf bar

 

Being a designer has its challenges...

Again I like'm all...tough choice Rusty





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I like the tubeular (or solid rod) one, I'd run a couple braces back from the bottom to the outboard bolts on the spring bulldog mount.
Thanks for the tip on the Dorman studs, dunno if they'd work because the knurl really needs to be full length to pass thru the Buick drum and clinch into the wide5 hub. Your tip led me back to the dorman site and I found a different search form and might have found one. The big thing is you gave the the proper knurl diameter, until then I was just guessing. Thanks, I appreciate it.

 

Awesome pic there, Stogy! Certainly shows that the vintage track roadsters often wore a nerf kinda like that.

 

I friend of mine had a pair of 1949 Farmall super C headlights. So thats what im going to use. They have a nice shape and are only 4 1/2" wide at the lenses.

 

Did some work on the top hoop of my nerf bar, I made some bungs at the end of the bar and used an original hole in the frame rails to attach it.

 

From the top.

 

Aren't you going to want two mounting bolts on each side to keep the whole unit from rotating on those two bolts? Also, could you put a bend in that hoop so it flattens out after it goes over the suspension? Just my thoughts on the matter. I've been enjoying the build.

 

It will have a bottom bar that will tie the two together so one bolt at the top will do the job.

 

Aaaaah, got it! Carry on, sir.

 

Got the front nerf close to being done today.

 

I like it. Well done.

 

The bar looks bitchin! Great job.

 

Just got this today from a fellow and his brother in Ohio.

 

That looks like it could have run at Indy. I wonder what the wheelbase is, it looks long.

 

Did you have any issues pressing the Dorman studs in?

 

My drums had the broken studs already out, I just cleaned up the holes whacked the studs in bolted the wheel on and tack welded the stud to the drum.

 

Thank you. John

 

I made some longer bungs at the end of the nerf bar to mount the headlights on. The lights really kill the look but i have to have them.

 

...I think it looks great...you mentioned I think extra support for the Nerf/Bumper perhaps running back from the aft side of the lower center curved bar to the lower spring u bolts? With only the 2 Tie ins thats a fair bit of weight out front as has been mentioned...(is that tube or solid?) and it looks as if pivoting on those points might be an issue with ground pounding. But again I think that looks really cool.

 

...I added a T, Additional Light and a lower Brace running from the Lower Aft side of the curved Bar projecting back and tying in to the Lower Spring Plate and you then have 3 Points and the bumper will not potentially pivot up and down (Lower Brace was Removed)...I like this very much Lights included...Rusty Good Eye for Details...

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I made a small tab under the top bar that is somewhat hidden so I do have four mounting points. A guy can just make it out in the close up picture of the head light.

 

...Gotcha...very clever I just took that mount out...

 

By the way just want to say thanks for all your help with the photoshoping. I've said it before it's a huge help getting my wacky brain wrapped around a certain idea.
If you ever get down to the Black Hills bring your driving gloves so you can take a spin in the little jalopy.

 

Thanks Rusty...for that offer and for the appreciation of the artistic photowork...many times I wish this group of us were closer so we could say a more personal hello but for now the Hamb offers a pretty good option. Your quite creative yourself. It's been pretty darn interesting watching this evolve...and what's even better is there's more to come.

 

This started as a 1922 Big 6 (354 cu. in) Touring car that had been converted into a pick up.
Says he narrowed the cowl by eight inches an dropped it three inches. The rear body work was made from $150 worth of sheet metal. The engine was torn down, inspected, and reassembled to stock specs with a valve job. Said he bought it for 3500 twenty years ago and sold 2000 in parts to Studebaker fans so it was an economical project. Says he is now working in a Vanderbilt Cup stye racer based on a 1914 Caddillac chassis and drive train.