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8BA Flathead into 32 Frame

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by jagalyn, Jul 18, 2010.

  1. jagalyn
    Joined: May 20, 2008
    Posts: 20

    jagalyn
    Member

    I just purchased a 1950 8BA Flathead to put into a 32 frame. The motor mounts on this are different and I think I need to change the water pumps to the 8RT type.

    If I do this, what other changes do I need to make to fit this into my 32 Frame? Any help would be appreciated as I am pretty green.

    Thank you.

    jagalyn
     

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Jul 20, 2010
  2. xix32
    Joined: Jun 12, 2008
    Posts: 595

    xix32
    Member

    i thought the 59a was from `46-`48 ?
    if that's what you have, this is how i did it.
    [​IMG]
     
    bct likes this.
  3. jagalyn
    Joined: May 20, 2008
    Posts: 20

    jagalyn
    Member

    I meant 8BA not 59BA... sorry. Like I said, I'm a little green.
     
  4. flatoz
    Joined: May 11, 2003
    Posts: 3,237

    flatoz
    Member

    One way...

    is to use truck waterpumps that have the leg on them and make a pair of engine mounts and use the original mount kit. will attach a few photos. my front X member is an original too. but I also have the original K member. looks like you have a 36 or so X member?

    You really need to mount your firewall too, so you get an idea on how high to mount your engine, I had to cut the bottom lip and bend it to get my motor to sit right.


    [​IMG]



    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]
     
    kidcampbell71 likes this.

  5. jagalyn
    Joined: May 20, 2008
    Posts: 20

    jagalyn
    Member

    Do all the motors in a 32 sit behind the front crossmember or is it just the way you set yours up? Would my 8BA fit on the motor mounts on the original crossmember?
     
  6. you have an aftermarket 32' front crossmember,no rear lip to use as a mount,plus the 8BA mounts won't work without changing the pumps
     
  7. tommy
    Joined: Mar 3, 2001
    Posts: 14,757

    tommy
    Member Emeritus

    [​IMG]

    As seen from the side. F-1 pumps, crank pulley, generator pulley and fan assembly. The truck pumps take the wide belts which necessitates the changes. There are different ways of doing it but this is what they did in the 50s when every junk yard had the required parts.
     
  8. NealinCA
    Joined: Dec 12, 2001
    Posts: 3,153

    NealinCA
    Member

    Will an 8BA work with stock 32 motor mounts...on a stock 32 V8 crossmember?

    Thinking about putting an 8BA in my sedan...

    Neal
     
    kidcampbell71 likes this.
  9. thunderbirdesq
    Joined: Feb 15, 2006
    Posts: 7,092

    thunderbirdesq
    Member


    Most likely, Neal. I have heard that some late blocks either A. don't have the holes in the front of the block, or B. the holes are there but aren't tapped. Every 8ba/8rt/8cm block I've seen has had them and they've been tapped.


    I did it, but I made the mounts as I wasn't about to spring several hundred dollars for a few pieces of bent iron.:rolleyes:
    [​IMG]
     
  10. NealinCA
    Joined: Dec 12, 2001
    Posts: 3,153

    NealinCA
    Member

    Thanks. Do you have a 39 style trans to a stock K-Member? I did luck out and find a reasonably priced pair of original motor mounts.

    A couple more questions. I can't see in the pic...are you running a fan? If so, which one?

    Also, with the stock 32 front crossmember, where is you tierod? Over or under the wishbone? I am running the tierod over the wishbone on my rpu, but I have a trimmed Model A crossmember. I was worried about clearance with the 32 stock crossmember on the sedan...

    Sorry to hi-jack this thread.

    Neal
     
    kidcampbell71 likes this.
  11. thunderbirdesq
    Joined: Feb 15, 2006
    Posts: 7,092

    thunderbirdesq
    Member

    Hope this helps.
     
  12. jagalyn
    Joined: May 20, 2008
    Posts: 20

    jagalyn
    Member

    OK... how do I know where to set the motor mounts back from the front crossmember so that when I put on the 8RT style water pumps, the engine will be in the correct location?

    And once I set the engine, will the radiator be in the correct position to the firewall so that my hood will line up properly?

    Will there be enough clearance between the radiator and the engine to run a stock fan?

    Seems like I have to have my radiator, firewall and body to make sure the engine placement is correct... any help here?

    Thank you.
     
  13. tommy
    Joined: Mar 3, 2001
    Posts: 14,757

    tommy
    Member Emeritus

    I[​IMG]

    If you are running a 39 trans and a stock K member, just bolt it all up and your front mounts are located front to rear.

    Bolt on the firewall and adjust the engine for the height. My water pump connections were slightly lower than the original radiator connections as you can see in the first picture. It was a matter of getting the best compromise. It's close to the bottom of the firewall but it clears. Any higher and it would hit.
     
  14. jagalyn
    Joined: May 20, 2008
    Posts: 20

    jagalyn
    Member

    The problem is I'm not running a stock "K" crossmember. I think the previous builder installed a Chassis Engineering "X" crossmember.

    So I can't use that to start the install... I think I am going to have to work from the front crossmember backwards... but where to start... are there any factory drilled holes in the frame that I can measure from to get my start?

    Any help would be appreciated.

    Thank you.
    j.
     
  15. alchemy
    Joined: Sep 27, 2002
    Posts: 20,506

    alchemy
    Member

    Since the original poster has a new X member and maybe a model A front crossmember, he can place the engine/trans combo wherever it fits best.

    The most accurate way to position them will be to bolt them together with ALL ACCESSORIES, and the firewall and radiator in place. Use a floor jack under the oil pan to move them around and find the best location. Don't forget clearance for pedals, steering, clutch linkage, exhaust, lower radiator hoses, and fan. Then make the motor and trans mounts to fit that location.

    He has a lot of freedom, unlike those of us who use a stock trans and K-member.

    The best way to make sure the radiator is exactly aligned is to install a center hood hinge on it's mounts, bolted to the firewall and radiator on top.
     
    clem likes this.
  16. thunderbirdesq
    Joined: Feb 15, 2006
    Posts: 7,092

    thunderbirdesq
    Member

     
  17. im in the middle of doing this my self, and i have had alot of trouble. i have new rails that i have boxed and installed the front(repop model a) and rear(model a) crossmembers. for the center i am using a 41 merc which may require alittle massaging because its a longer spread X. i have an original firewall mounted in stock position as well as the front crossmember with a original v8 radiator and grill above. for a trani im using an open drive 3 speed. the motor is sitting in position with the RT pumps to sit on the motor mounts that will be welded flush with the tops of the rails, and then the rubber bisquettes will raise it up 3/4 of an inch or so. in doing this the water pumps are alinged almost perfectly with the radiator outlets. i had to turn my 2 groove crank pulley down to a 1 groove because i did not have enought room to run a 2 belt system. this causes a problem with running a mechanical fan and my solution was a 1 off pulley to mount on my 12v generator that would allow me to use a 32-38 mechanical fan. i have not yet got it done so im not 100% in the clear.

    8BA motors has longer shafts on water pumps which is the reason they are alittle more harder to make fit then the 59ab.

    if you plan to run a hood then make sure you have everything that will factor the engine bay. if your not going to run a hood then move the crossmember forward alittle and save your self a lot of trouble.

    if there is anything i can help you with shoot me a pm.
     
    Last edited: Jul 21, 2010
  18. thunderbirdesq
    Joined: Feb 15, 2006
    Posts: 7,092

    thunderbirdesq
    Member

    One thing to keep in mind if you're using a stock Kmember and mounting the engine on the pump ears... The new mounts should NOT be flush with the top of the rails, they actually need to be a little lower...
     
  19. Pinewood
    Joined: Sep 28, 2006
    Posts: 354

    Pinewood
    Member

    Jagalyn I don't think you've said what body you're going to use? Once you set your body on the rails, line up the center of the wheel wells with the center of your rear axle. This will place your body and sequentially your firewall. I'm using the same CE center crossmember setup in my deuce rails. You can check out my profile pictures if and see if they help at all.

    Here's another link to a post with essentially the same question.

    http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=408306
     
  20. jagalyn
    Joined: May 20, 2008
    Posts: 20

    jagalyn
    Member

    I'm planning on using the Brookville Roadster body but have not purchased it yet. I have an original 32 firewall and radiator shroud. I have not acquired the radiator yet.

    I spoke with Mac VanPelt this morning and here's what he tells me.

    I have an 8BA motor going into a 32 frame with a 46 Light duty 3spd truck transmission.

    He said I will need to change the water pumps out to the 8RT to get the flat mounts. He said I will need to change the crank pulley to a 49 Ford pulley that will line up with the new water pumps. He said I will have to change to the 49 shallow fan to get clearance from the radiator so I will have to convert to a 42-48 generator setup where the fan runs off the generator with a single belt system.

    He also said I will need to acquire an 8RT Bell housing and use my 8BA Starter Cover Assembly... he said I might need to make the round knockout a little larger to make it work... after this, I should be able to use the 46 light truck clutch housing, clutch, throw out bearing and transmission.

    So... I guess I've got a plan?
     
    Flathead Dave likes this.
  21. bobscogin
    Joined: Feb 8, 2007
    Posts: 1,774

    bobscogin
    Member

    Doesn't '42-'48 use 2 belts, the fan being driven by it's own belt on the front crank pulley, not on the generator. That's how my '42 Merc is set up.

    Bob
     
  22. yes, i think he ment 32-38.

    but this set up will not line up with the water pumps and crank pulleys. you will need to fab up a pulley to except this fan for the later generators
     
  23. dsiddons
    Joined: Mar 6, 2006
    Posts: 1,542

    dsiddons
    Member
    from Indiana

    Notch out your firewall alittle.(The back of the motor (trans area) hits the firewall which is different than early motors. Don't sit it in there to low because you will have some clearance problems with your steering box. You will want to because the firewall clearance will be a issue at first. Also the bottom radiator hoses wont line up and the fan belt will hit the top of the offset hose connecters. You will end up running your stock gen with a motified fan. It will work but is a royal pain in the ass for something you would think would stuff right in..
     
  24.  
  25. 3blapcam
    Joined: Jul 15, 2004
    Posts: 531

    3blapcam
    Member

    I know this thread was started a while ago, but the parameters are similar to my setup. What are y'all doing for upper radiator hoses with a stock radiator? Does anyone supply a set that just fit into place that have the correct upper sized hose and lower hoses? I'm almost at this crossroad and I'm trying to make the LSRU... I would like to not spend a lot of time and money guessing on parts combos, but I saw that Speedway has 105 & 135 degree bent hose, but do either of these put the hose on the correct path to match up?

    Thanks...

    3blap.
     
  26. As far as the 8BA water outlets, several vendors sell them with the larger radiator hose neck.
    Can't help with a preformed hose, can you not use a flex type to get it running?
     
  27. 3blapcam
    Joined: Jul 15, 2004
    Posts: 531

    3blapcam
    Member

    Yeah, I will to get it going temporarily and then replace with something cleaner looking. I haven't seen the larger outlet thermostat housings... I will Google for them now.

    3blap.
     
  28. clem
    Joined: Dec 20, 2006
    Posts: 4,209

    clem
    Member

    2F222ED3-1784-4FC9-9043-3A70E34860F4.jpeg

    Bob Drake, stainless steel, 1&3/4 inch I think, same as stock radiator.
    I’m in the middle of doing this now, using a stainless steel tube and a short straight joiner at top and a bend at bottom. Just using some old hose that I had laying around.
    Fan clearance is the biggest issue. Option ‘b’ - May need to have a top 135* bend to a horizontal L shaped pipe dropping down vertically to thermostat housing.
    Google - bob Drake thermostat housing 8ba
     
    Last edited: Apr 3, 2019
  29. 3blapcam
    Joined: Jul 15, 2004
    Posts: 531

    3blapcam
    Member

    Yeah, I found them on Drake's website, but they're out of stock until the end of this month. C&G is showing to have them, but they're not open for another 9 mins.

    For the sake of time, I don't think I'm going to have a fan. After the show, I'll revisit this issue. I have tried 2 different fans and I cannot get either to fit. I've even shortened the stock fan mount as far as I could get it to go. Clem, what are you using for a fan?

    3blap.
     

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