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Hot Rods Model A body on ‘32 chassis WITH FENDERS- Help!

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by RiffRaffRoadster, Dec 24, 2018.

  1. big duece
    Joined: Jul 28, 2008
    Posts: 6,830

    big duece
    Member
    from kansas

    There is more than one way to mount them, but look for another pair if your guy don't want to mess with heating/cutting/welding.https://www.hotrodworks.com/product/1935-1940-ford-radius-rod-mount-kit/ Which ever way you go, it would be wise to strengthen the top side of the wishbone like in previous pics. Keep in mind '36 was closed drive line and looow horsepower engine. The closed driveshaft added lots of strength that you no longer have with open driveshaft.
     
  2. BobPer
    Joined: Feb 15, 2009
    Posts: 284

    BobPer
    Member

    I'm using a Johnny Joint from Currie for the front pivot in the rear of my roadster. I am using an open drive 47 truck rear (hope to use a quick change in the future), an open drive 3-sp, 35/36 radius rods, added 1" DOM tube torque arms, homemade brackets, Johnny Joint, and model A or T rear spring. The rear crossmember is Model A on my homemade frame (Dadgum frame). I'm using a coupling nut which will be welded on both sides of my center crossmember with the jamb nut. I still need to complete all the welding but here are some pictures so far. Bob
    [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG]
     
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  3. jimgoetz
    Joined: Sep 6, 2013
    Posts: 517

    jimgoetz
    Member

    This is what I was thinking too. It's hard to tell from the pictures but it might be possible to fix yours like you said but you would have to find a good welder or fabricator to make sure.
     
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  4. Blues4U
    Joined: Oct 1, 2015
    Posts: 7,589

    Blues4U
    Member
    from So Cal

    Awesome stuff! Now I'm gonna have to check out that full thread. Thanks Stogy!
     
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  5. goldmountain
    Joined: Jun 12, 2016
    Posts: 4,442

    goldmountain

    Here's my setup with the '36 bones. They anchor to plates welded to my fabricated center crossmember which is similar to yours with bolt on radius rod brackets from Speedway. In my case, I didn't have to change the angle of the radius rods because I got them from a car that was flipped upside down where someone torched off the spring hanger ends to get the rear spring so I had to make all IMG_1203.JPG that up from scratch. I referred you to the video because he pie cut the tubes to change the angle.
     
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  6. Stogy
    Joined: Feb 10, 2007
    Posts: 26,345

    Stogy
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    It's obvious Henry mounted the bones around the tail shaft area at a central point perhaps with a Ball in Socket similar to the front...in a triangulated way. What I have seen through so many setups here is regardless of location to center when attaching even if they don't meet behind the tail shaft if you extend an imaginary line they are triangulated even if joined at two locations the point of meeting is just further ahead. So the design is still there just modified...how does it perform stress and performance wise...I mean it's easy to see how a typical garage hotrodder might just look at the old indy and Jalopy racers and copy it.
     
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  7. goldmountain
    Joined: Jun 12, 2016
    Posts: 4,442

    goldmountain

    The Chev pickups with coil springs from 1960 to 1972 have the control arms going toward the center as do the NASCAR racers.

    Sent from my SM-T350 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
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  8. Stogy
    Joined: Feb 10, 2007
    Posts: 26,345

    Stogy
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    That is in fact what I am asking is the 36 bones were designed attached just behind the Tranny on the torque tube and stress on those type of Bones seems to be an issue the further out from center you go so would a centralized Heim type attach point joining the 2 into 1 reduce stress to a factory designed level. The other thing already mentioned in this type of setup is addition of a Torque Bar mentioned and shown in this thread due to different stresses created by the loss of the torque tube and other geometry not present in a torque tube setup?

    https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/36-bones-open-banjo-torque-arm-my-way.263584/

    Just to be clear there are many of you fellas with all kinds of geometry in action here and whether its dead center to one mount or triangulated to two both may yield positive results. My Ladders go to two separate mount points much like yours @goldmountain.
     
  9. goldmountain
    Joined: Jun 12, 2016
    Posts: 4,442

    goldmountain

    Just had a crazy idea. How would it angle in if you try swapping left for right?

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  10. Stogy
    Joined: Feb 10, 2007
    Posts: 26,345

    Stogy
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Honestly I thought of it to myself earlier tonight ...glad to see it in print...Holy geometry Batman...:D
     
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  11. big duece
    Joined: Jul 28, 2008
    Posts: 6,830

    big duece
    Member
    from kansas

  12. RiffRaffRoadster
    Joined: Dec 24, 2018
    Posts: 450

    RiffRaffRoadster
    Member

    I just drew that up in my head and I don’t think that would work. I’ll draw it on paper and verify...


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  13. RiffRaffRoadster
    Joined: Dec 24, 2018
    Posts: 450

    RiffRaffRoadster
    Member

  14. big duece
    Joined: Jul 28, 2008
    Posts: 6,830

    big duece
    Member
    from kansas

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  15. Stogy
    Joined: Feb 10, 2007
    Posts: 26,345

    Stogy
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

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  16. The37Kid
    Joined: Apr 30, 2004
    Posts: 30,629

    The37Kid
    Member

    Yes, they are 6 feet away leaning against a file cabinet. :) Bob
     
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  17. Stogy
    Joined: Feb 10, 2007
    Posts: 26,345

    Stogy
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Thanks Bob I'm not sure if you have visited this thread but its a cool story and the Hotrod is in a resurrection righting a few wrongs in a period way. Riff has Bones but they have been modded and alternate ones may be on the radar as the consensus is to angle them in as they were just inside the frame. He can contact you should he seek replacements as you have some at a fair price as @big duece posted.

    Get that @RiffRaffRoadster...Options
     
    Last edited: Mar 29, 2019
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  18. RiffRaffRoadster
    Joined: Dec 24, 2018
    Posts: 450

    RiffRaffRoadster
    Member

    I’m going to Will’s shop in the morning to look at options again in the morning. Will keep you posted.


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  19. RiffRaffRoadster
    Joined: Dec 24, 2018
    Posts: 450

    RiffRaffRoadster
    Member

    Sorry to keep skipping around with the different subjects-need some advice on the gauge cluster. I really like the old SW gauges but would like to upgrade them. In fact, I found this photo online that is very similar to the original design and I would like to get it to this look. We’ll have a 12V wiring set up. Buy all new SW gauges? Send the old gauges to a gauge shop?
    [​IMG][​IMG]


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  20. Stogy
    Joined: Feb 10, 2007
    Posts: 26,345

    Stogy
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    If that was mine and they are all 12 volt that is what would be going back in...It also seems to be a matched set...is the Tach SW?...You could clean those up (is the dirt inside the glass?) and strip the paint off the dash and polish it up...It looks to have have engine turning done on the insert.

    Do your seat job to those and give it a second thought...technically its not a fair comparison as is dirty versus spotless...and that dash is to nice to have been painted.

    Perhaps someone here can advise on the turned dash cleanup...and careful cleaning chrome as in no abrasive stuff...

    Riff you have a Cool Hotrod...I just have to emphasize how fortunate you are and that is part of its soul...

    Oh and this is all part of the package so no need to apologize for jumping around...Is that dash aluminum? I'm assuming Yes.

     
    Last edited: Mar 29, 2019
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  21. RiffRaffRoadster
    Joined: Dec 24, 2018
    Posts: 450

    RiffRaffRoadster
    Member

    Its a Sun tachometer. I believe all the rest are SW. I’m assuming I
    lose H.A.M.B. points by keeping old gauges but upgrading the mechanical workings to digital. Is that even an option? I think I can find a replacement backing plate with the machined pattern.


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  22. Stogy
    Joined: Feb 10, 2007
    Posts: 26,345

    Stogy
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    If those work its what the racers used and they won the race fair and square...I think those things are fairly bulletproof...I have no name copies of those and I guess its a matter of understanding what they are and what they are saying. Yeah I trust the accuracy, I mean they were a great gauge then and the motive power is what powered them...

    To me Digital is something I would keep out of my escape to the past.
     
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  23. Dick Stevens
    Joined: Aug 7, 2012
    Posts: 3,710

    Dick Stevens
    Member

    You would regret replacing the old SW gauges with new gauges, the old ones were so much better than the new ones. Clean up the old gauges and dash panel! Then embrace the look that you can never duplicate if you let them get away from you! That is a part of what makes this hot rod so cool! If they don't work right send them out to be repaired, don't replace them with the new junk that won't last!
     
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  24. big duece
    Joined: Jul 28, 2008
    Posts: 6,830

    big duece
    Member
    from kansas

    I would use the old ones, hands down...
     
  25. Aaron D.
    Joined: Oct 27, 2015
    Posts: 1,037

    Aaron D.
    Member

    I'd keep the old ones, they are easy to clean up. You will gain H.A.M.B. points if you keep them. Remember, traditional Hot Rod.
     
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  26. ...and if all the gauges don't clean-up; you can always replace them with better condition original gauges, plenty around. If you haven't noticed it yet those standard gauges will require external lighting.

    That Pierce Arrow dash panel itself is a pretty special piece.
     
  27. big duece
    Joined: Jul 28, 2008
    Posts: 6,830

    big duece
    Member
    from kansas

  28. Stogy
    Joined: Feb 10, 2007
    Posts: 26,345

    Stogy
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    External lighting...what have you seen in a traditional sense that could be used for that?
     
  29. Those old gauges are damn cool. Like mentioned by others. Do whatever you can to use them. Those numbers on that particular Odometer are REAL history for you. If you want to "update" them without really changing them there are a couple things you can do. If they are rear lit, you can convert to...gasp L.E.D.s There are kits available to also run that speedometer off of a cable driven GPS deal. This eliminates adapting to the trans and compensating for gear ratios and tire sizes. For the housing, keep up with the elbow grease like you have on other parts.
     
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  30. RiffRaffRoadster
    Joined: Dec 24, 2018
    Posts: 450

    RiffRaffRoadster
    Member

    Any suggestions of a reputable company that can restore these for a reasonable cost?


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