Mopar flathead 6 motors- whats to be expected

I use an oldtimer who has been re-lining brake shoes and rebuilding PP and disc since drag racing in Arkansas since the '60's. I try and use him as much as I can. Better him making a living vs the big guys. He added max springs in the PP, re-lined the disc and throw out bearing for $150.

 

I WOULD LIKE TO DO AN CHEVY S10 REAR END SWAP CAN ANY WON HELP WIT SOME IMFORMATION THANKS JUSTINTIME33

 

...no need to yell...but ya gotta tell us what your're working on......

Keep in mind that you will have different bolt patterns if you use the shiverlay rear in an old Mope.
You might also look at Cherokee, Ranger and Explorer units. I have some axle widths on my website if you need numbers.

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Not to mention the S10 ten bolt rear is a horribly poor and weak axle.

 

Probably do better with an 8" Ford and you'll have the right wheel bolt pattern to boot.

 

I would guess the s10 rear end may be narrower buy 2 or 3" from what you have. Since we do not know what you are working on, what year your s10 rear end is, we can only guess.

I once measured a ford ranger rear end, it was 2" narrow then my dodge truck ... I think the cars of the era are close to the same width.
You could fix that by adding 1" wheel spacers and converting it to mopar bolt pattern at the same time.
You need to choose a replacement rear end with correct gear ratio. What ratio is the s10?
You get a ratio to tall, a stock 218 flathead will be a dog and miserable to drive. What engine do you have?
3:73 seems to be the sweet spot for the 218, low rpm's at highway speeds and still have torque left.

A ford explorer or jeep cherokee early 1990's with drum brakes, 3:73 ratio .... you simply grind off the old spring perches and add new ones. done in 15 min
I imagine s10 will be same effort, you will get a weaker rear end, added cost for needed wheel spacers etc..