Projects 26 T Roadster Pick Up build Thread

It's a mechanical fuel pump with an AC delco threaded fuel filter housing and filter cartridge that coincidentally fit the mechanical pumps threaded filter location. Post is below.

https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum...-up-build-thread.460009/page-53#post-12528102

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Yes, fuel filter built into the bottom of the mechanical fuel pump.

 

Blue One do the AC filter housing and filter and Ford counterparts share different part numbers but are actually made by the manufacturer. Just curious...

 

I’m not sure how it works out that the AC filter housing and the Ford fuel pump filter housing ended up being identical and interchangeable but they are.

Probably a manufacturer thing.

The fuel pumps are made by Carter or Delphi listed for the 292 YBlock and come with the filter built in.

Really convenient and easy to get filters for as they are common to the Delco filters.
(GF 157)

 

The FE motor in my old "wood hauler" pickup uses a nearly identical fuel pump & filter, so FoMoCo must have been enamored with them.

 

I’m making some progress, wiring isn’t my favourite pastime however I’m enjoying it well enough

 

Looks great! I hope mine goes as planned.

 

Yeah, a few manufacturers had integral fuel pumps/filters.
They had a cartridge inside that stamped housing. Not too bad to swap, except for getting them to seal properly, like the cartridge oil filters.
https://www.carid.com/images/airtex/fuel-pump/4008.jpg
It was an advancement from the glass covers!
https://content.speedwaymotors.com/ProductImages/91011525_L_db8ae3c3-f9c7-4b10-8e21-2e72b9774a09.jpg

 

Thanks for the answer, I was reading the fuel pressure regulator as an electric pump so I was total lost last night when I saw it lol.

Since it somehow become a topic, the boat version of the mercruiser motor in using has a glass bowl fuel filter on top of the mech fuel pump as well.

Wiring looks good so far. My only advice would be prepared to be patient, and be prepared to take parts of it all apart again.

With that in mind there should be little left to frustrate you

 

I was advised to be patient So that’s what’s happening.

I’m going to pull apart pretty much everything I’ve done so far because all the wires that you see exiting the bundle near the fuse panel are for the switches.

I think they’re bundled that way because the panel was intended to be mounted on the driver’s side.

In that case they would be near the steering column.

I mounted the panel on the passenger side because I think that in a car as small as mine it will be much easier to see from there rather than trying to get at it with the steering column etc in the way.

So the goal will be to rebundle everything to move all of the dash switch wires over to the driver’s side where they can exit the bundle close to the steering column.

 

Good catch. I’m also going to mount the fuse panel on the passenger side and after your, and others, good experiences with that company I think I’ll use them as well.

I’ll keep notes on what you end up doing and let them know when I have them build me one

 

So that parts done for now. All switch wires moved over.

 

I feel your pain. When I wired my 49 Ford truck I bought an EZ Wiring harness. They are designed to have the fuse block on the drivers side and the main harness exiting the cab on the driver's side and have everything run up and down the driver's side.
I did mount the fuse box on the drivers side but ran the main bundle over to the passenger's side and out a pre-existing hole (conveniently near the starter on my 500ci Caddy) and then run everything down the passenger side of the frame. The problem arose in that since it was designed to be routed on the driver's side the lengths of the wires for the parking lights/turn signals were wrong. I didn't want splices in the wires anywhere so I just swapped the wires for the left and right sides. The only down side is that the colors are now reversed (the harness came with standard General Motors color codes). No big deal.

I followed some good advice and didn't make any connections until I was absolutely sure of placement. Which was good since I think I routed that harness at least 4 times before finally deciding where it would live.

Keep at it, you're almost there
Bobby

 

Wiring is going well, I started running all the wires out to all their various locations and started separating them out and looming them.

That Easy loom split loom, cloth looking stuff is really nice.

I found that moving the switch wires over has made them shorter than I would have liked, had I known I would have asked for them to be left a couple of feet longer.
I think I will have enough, splicing some extra if needed is easy and reliable if done properly.

I ran my starter wire to the neutral safety switch and started running wires out to the front and rear.

I decided that everything will be loomed and mounted to the frame etc. , with the same Made for you Zytel Nylon T clamps that I have used for all of the other plumbing so far.

So with that in mind I placed an order from Summit for a bunch more stuff.

Then after 10 years and hundreds upon hundreds of rivnut inserts installed on different projects my installation tool is done.
Worn out.

I really like threaded inserts, they’re all over my RPU.

So I went and picked up a new one today.
I’ve still got plenty of inserts to install for the rest of the wiring.

 

Press on, man!

 

I’m still loving your attention to detail and no compromise approach! I find this to be one of the most impressive builds going here.

 

Just curious, you wore out the old one?
The working ends are replaceable, so did the pivot/axle or holes in the handles finally wallow out?

Are you going to tap in a small light above the fuse block, since you KNOW you will have to check it when it's dark!

 

Yes I wore it out. Everything you mentioned and then some.

There are a couple of little discs in the working mechanism that just destroyed themselves over time. They’re part of the handle that does the moving and pulling to tighten the inserts.

All in all it’s developed into a sloppy mess

Probably due in part to many times working it past it’s capacity using 5/16” inserts when it only comes with mandrels up to 1/4” .

I tried to rebuild it and in the end decided it was easier to get the new one.

And I also have the larger long handled Marson tool for larger inserts now.

I’ve got a good light on my phone so along with the white panel and the back of the dash being white I think it will be fine.

 

Well fuck he’s gonna use his phone but now I’ve gotta find a spot for a light

 

Blue One, I kind of figured it was fatigued everywhere, that's how you know you got your full use out of things!
Shows that engineering on it was good too. The 'bargain' stuff tends to have a single point of failure, usually the spot where another 50 cents (bearing, sleeve, better material, or a little more thickness) got cut out in the name of a lower price point or more profit.

 

Took the cowl top off my A to do some messing around and mocking up and while I was thinking “man it’s tight under here” it crossed my mind that a T would be even smaller!

Care to lay a yard stick or something across the area for scale?

 

I'll do that later on sure.
This whole build has been a challenge making things fit. Everything's so tight it's like stuffing 20 pounds of stuff into a 5 pound bag

 

And no cowl top to remove. Those big model A:s must be a dream to work on.

 

Skimmed the thread again, Larry...not to be a PITA.
Could you tell me what windshield frame you used? Looks like a 'Speedway', but not sure.
You mentioned it was not chrome plated...my tub's a '27, so...'same/same'. Thanks.
Appreciate all the hose and fitting info. Otherwise, info is very obscure...

 

So a tape measure has to do, the inside of the cowl where the panel mounts is just over 30 inches wide.
Loads of room

 

After working on the 46 I gotta say I’ll take cramped and wide open over big and everythings in the way haha

 

No problem Mike.
It’s a 4” chopped Mr Roadster frame from Speedway , I’m not sure if they sell a chrome one.
I bought the raw steel one and had intended to paint it, then later on I decided to send it and the windshield posts out to Ogden chrome for plating.
You’d crap yourself if you heard how much it cost me for that along with the rest of the chrome bill.

 

The saga of the wiring continues. I ran wires out across the firewall behind the engine and separated coil and tach wires and water temperature and oil pressure and brake light switch, neutral safety switch wires too.

I loomed everything and then mounted the harness with the Made for you T clamps.

I removed the bracket I made for the fuel log and added a couple of mounting points for a couple of T clamps to hold the wire to the water temperature sender.

Almost done with the engine and then front and rear lighting etc will be next.

After that will come gauges and dash wiring.
Whew

 

Did Dicks stop making that gauge? I don't see them on their website

 

He still has them, just not listed on his website as you noticed.
I sent him an email and paid him then he shipped it out to me.