Technical Speed Gems pilot bearing stuck in crankshaft

Drill it, tap it. Freeze it, screw the bolt into it and pull it out

 

Use a blind hole bearing puller and wurth freezeoff it’s penetrant with a cooling agent in it

 

are you sure that pilot adapter has a through hole and not a blind hole? i would have thought that first setup of bearing splitter/puller would have got it out

 

i would try making that puller beefer. if u look at it it bent in middle right where hole is.Not much meat left on it.maybe make 2 and stack them if thats all u have for stock. Or all of the above are good ideas too.

 

anyone mention black powder?

 

how do you remove a post? any one ?

 

I think the white powder is more traditional.....

 

5 ways that I know of - Saw them off, pull them over with a truck, pull them up with a backhoe. And then there is a delete button on a post you made right next to the report button

 

All you need is a flywheel. Bolt flywheel to crank. Clamp flywheel to mill with the crank hanging off the side. Locate the center of the crank. Bore out the adapter. Done!

 

Try this with that damned bearing! Just hit 'delete'.
Seriously, please post how you finally get it out. We expect and appreciate closure.

 

Genius... thinking outside the gear box...
I was thinking of a scrap piece of whatever with a large slot and 2 bolt holes in it.

 

maybe I'm weird but the first thing I would have tried is a pilot bushing slide hammer.

 

Lot's of good ideas from everyone, I'm sure more than one of those would work. I went with the most readily available method and rented a pilot bearing puller to use with my slide hammer. The jaws on the puller were not long enough to reach inside to grab the bushing shoulder. Since I still had the crank in the lathe I drilled half way in with a 1" bit, this gave enough room for the puller to grab the bushing. I hammered away till my hands got sore and it didn't move at all.
I had the crank indicated in and running perfectly true on both ends, so I decided to just bore the part out in the lathe.
I took light cuts until the bore measured 1.084, finished bore should be 1.092. This left a .004" thick sliver of metal in the crank end. I took a punch and collapsed the metal in on itself and it fell right out. No sign of locktite or anything glueing it in.
Photos below tell the story.
Thanks guys

 

The Speed Gems adapter sticks out to far, in order to use a T5 trans with the Ross Racing tranny adapter the Speed Gems piece has to be removed and the new pilot bearing goes in the original bored hole in the crank.

 

I would like to know what they used or how they got it to stick in there so good.
I'm sure we all could make good use of it some place

 

Glad you got this taken care of, and not in some Mickie Mouse way either. Nice you posted the results after all the suggestions. I am Butch/56sedabndelivery

 

I think the reason why it was so hard to remove was do to a heavy press fit. You can see that the bore was clean and no adhesive was used. I measured the od of the new bearing at 1.094 the crank bore is 1.092. The standard for a press fit is .001 for eavy one inch of part diameter. If the Speed Gems part was also 1.094 diameter. This would have made for a very tight fit. I may take a .005 cut off the crank bore so the new bearing goes in easier.

 

Next time fill with grease and stick a piece of round stock or an extra input shaft and smack it with a bfh, keep adding grease, the grease will go to the back of the bushing and push the pilot bushing out. Never failed me yet

 

I used to pull bearing races out of transmission cases all the time this way. Very common practice among heavy equip mechanics. Lay a bead down on the ID of the race, let it cool, it will come right out.