Hot Rods How hard is it to change over to 134R freon?

Air in a can. You use it to blow dust off your keyboard.

 

Freeze 12 was mostly propane. Yes , propane. A great refrigerant, just flammable as hell if it ever leaks out.

I did a few conversions in years back, flushed with rubbing alcohol, put on the adapter fittings, pulled a vacuum, put in a small can of PAG oil then about three cans of R134a. I always heard to charge to 85% of the R12 charge, I never did, I just used as much R134a as I would have R12, they always cooled fine.

I'm fighting with a R134a system on my semi right now, it's leaking out the valve core, and I can't get it out. Probably had some of that sealer used on it in the past and has frozen the core to the tube. If I can't get the core out I'm gonna have to replace the evaporator since it's a part of the line. Not looking forward to that job.

 

I have that problem on my DD. Valve core leak, and core won’t come out. Debating whether I use it enough to be worth the hassle of fixing it.



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Charge it up with N2, get a spray bottle with some dish soap and water, and start hunting for bubbles.

Then consider removing the whole system and giving Vintage Air a call.



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Yep, propane and butane were a couple of the early refrigerants that worked pretty well, except for the flammability issue.

 

You can get fitting adapters, they’re cheap. Usually found in a conversion kit with a selection of O rings. Supposedly that’s the minimum needed for a conversion. Probably works ok. Or you could just use R12 fittings on the gauge set and charge it with R134a. But to really convert, you’ll need a compressor, accumulator, clean everything, and new oil. At that point, Vintage Air starts looking really attractive.


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RIV63.O.K. I thought so. Thanks. Bruce.

 

I just looked again at mine a few minutes ago, I got lucky. The block where the ports are is separate from the evaporator, so it looks as though if I can get that section, it will be a unbolt the old and bolt in the new.

Depends on where you live on if it's worth fixing or not. Here in the South, AC is a almost must have, especially in the summer months.

 

Northern Illinois. Two months of the year, it’s nice to have, but I rarely drive more than 5-10 minutes away, I work from home, and I don’t mind heat. I’ve fixed this thing several times, through two failed compressors, one evap leak, one condenser leak, and several schraeder valve leaks. I have the tools, I’m just tired of fixing it.



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I know people say you "need" to change the oil, you should but in my experience it's not necessary. In my 86 c10 the compressor failed. I did not have access to a r12 machine so I bought the r134 adapters and after replacing the compressor I charged the system and the truck has been cooling fine since. In my truck there was no noticeable temperature difference between the two. I changed it back in 2010 or 11. I've put 100k on the truck since then and the last 3 years I've lived in south Florida so that ac gets used year round

 

Just put the threaded ,sealed caps on tight. My S10 has been like that for three years. Haven't had a good reason to fix it right yet.

 

As J-jock stated, your only choice here is not "Keep it R-12, or convert to 134A". R12A has been around since the late 1990's and is an environmentally friendly substitute for R12. R12A is also comprised of larger molecules, so it doesn't come with the leakage issue that 134A comes with. R12A can be used as a direct replacement for R12. No flushing required. I performed A/C rebuilds numerous times over the years on vehicles originally equipped for R12. I recharged with R12A in all cases and the systems performed just fine, even in desert heat.

I have a few friends...mostly A/C-HVAC specialists...that stockpiled R12 after the ban. The stuff is rapidly becoming unobtanium nowadays. But the expense of R12 is silly in your case, Sine R12A will work just fine.

 

BamaMav, it gets hot here in east T.N. during the summer months and I just cant take the heat like I used to. Thanks Bruce.

 

Greasemonkey, I remember .I lived and drove trucks down there for 10 years but when I started turning on the house A.C. in Feb. I knew it was time to move to East T.N. LOL. Bruce.

 

O.K Guys another question. I checked out the A.C. on the wagon and someone had a ready convertered it over to 134 R a ready, they just didn't put the stickers on saying so. O.K. I have no power at the compressor, so I went back to the dryer and check the low pressure switch for power there. No power there either. I can run a hot wire from the battery and the compressor will kick on. Any ideas what to look for next? Thanks Bruce.

 

Have you put gauges on and checked the pressures? Checked fuses? Check for power at the temperature switch?

 

I would start with a wiring diagram and start checking wiring.


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If this a GM car, some had a fuse block on the compressor, it's a one time fuse.
Seem to remember there are three wire going to it.

 

BJR.i checked for power at the compressor and at the low power switch at the dryer and no power there either.Fuses are good. Thanks Bruce.

 

saltflats, I don't see one.Thanks Bruce.

 

Check your fuses
There should be a relay as well controlling the comp clutch

The low pressure switch, I don’t remember if it switches a ground for the clutch or power.
Try jumping it and see what happens.
There might also be a high pressure switch hiding on the high side of the system somewhere.

The system is most likely discharged or low and not allowing the comp to come on.

 

You'd think by now they'd have something like a valve stem extension for that repair.

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