Technical ***March 2019 Banger Meet - Pot O'Gold Info***

One project that I cannot bring myself to shed, is one that I must also farm out to me finished.
Here's a pic(s) for you... View attachment 4223795 View attachment 4223796 [/QUOTE]

Looks like a Donovan Model D,

I like the oil pan, is this one of Dan Price's?

 

Looks like a Donovan Model D,

I like the oil pan, is this one of Dan Price's?[/QUOTE]
Hey Bob,
Yeah Model D !

Relative to the pan q...it has been said that if nothing good to say about it, then don't say anything.

Bob, did not mean to come across as 'short' in answering your questions.
However, if you plan/think about paying the $ for such pan. I'd share details, that you should have before making such large $ outlay, about this equipment...thru private channel, if you want.

 

I am new to Model As and learning something new every time I drive it. Recently I topped off the gas only to discover a very noticeable smell of gas as I was driving...yep a small leak at my gas gauge. Got home drained the gas to half tank. My repair kit with new gaskets will be going in soon.

 

^^^^Same here! Haven't fixed it yet, but 1/2 tank is all it gets for now. First I gotta repack the leaky shutoff at the bottom end! Always enjoyed the smell.

 

I know folks have stopped the full advance side of the FSI on stock applications by altering the plate stop to limit.Tolerance for advance has alot to do with combustion chamber design,on the Miller OHV the low turbulence allows it to handle way more advance,on the track they run it up to 60 degrees total.I tuned a street engine miller serr and it just kept taking it,I tuned by ear and couldn't believe how much it took.

 

The air quality monsters got me,everytime I smell exhaust I think Im running rich.

 

gas leaks are not all that cool

 

That makes me feel better. Im running the roof which is an f head. So im assuming it would have more turbulence then the miller but better than a flathead. I just spent a lot on the rebuilt motor and dont want to destroy it. Fuel mixture has some to do with it because leaner conditions take longer to burn, not sure how much that would have to do with pre detonation in this set up though.

I ended up take the distributor apart and talked to my buddy about how to change the advance it. I could handle that.

If running up to 40 degrees is safe though I wouldnt need to change the distributor. Or not now, i would need more testing.

 

Howdy. I need a little technical advice from you model A gurus. I have an early 28 Model A pinion gear which is in pretty rough condition (see photo).
This early version has bearing adjusting nut thread straight on drive shaft not on collar of gear as later version. Also it has half moon shaped axle key, not straigth as later model. I haven't seen those early version gears for sale anywhere, so does anyone know if later version fits on early driveshaft.? Is the later model thread bigger and whole piniongear simply goes over the thread of early driveshaft? Or better yet does anyone have a decent early pinion gear (9 teeth) that you would be willing to sell and ship to Finland?

 

About that pinon gear : STRONGLY SUGGEST replace both ring & pinon as an assembly! They usually come as a "matched" pair, & putting an unmatched pair together usually are at best noisy, & don't last too long.

 

I agree ………..… pairs only like timing gears

 

Yes, i know they should be use as pairs. But i'm trying to put together something to sling some dirt on backroads with worn out B engine. So i'm not sure If it really matters.
But what i really don't know, can i mount later (available) gear on early driveshaft, or do i need to get later driveshaft also? Anyone know about that?

Sent from my S41 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

the 28 can be a different animal . a lot of one off stuff . a lot of parts are what they call "AR" . some one should have better knowledge than me . good luck

 

mock up of final build...wont be long now

 

how are you protecting the aluminum from erosion ………… steve

 

got a waste metal cathode in the water inlet fitting..its kinda neat,the inlet is tapped npt where the clip screws in at,the cathode is a rod that screws in..

 

very good . a lot of people don't realize that . only reason I asked is because I have a LION 3 head im thinking about trading for an aluminum head ……….. thanks

 

Do you need that cathode if you are using Evans coolant which contains no water?

 

Here's a good read on coolant and corrosion.
http://ve-labs.net/electrolysis-101

I'm a firm believer in an anode/cathode regardless of what solution you use,it is 100 percent effective.quality coolant is a must as well.

 

Heat dissipation with the aluminum head is what Im waiting to see..

 

get the later shaft and pinion and your good to go...early 28 was a different design,but the later will work in its place.Since you're there it doenst take much to set up the pinion and ring gear correctly,even if they are mismatched they will last if you set it up right..check this out..
http://www.santaanitaas.org/wp-cont...rential-Rear-End-Restoration-Revised-2014.pdf

 

**************
as near as I can tell by the parts books , all rear gears are equal . so you need to find an old pinion gear .

 

at least you don't have the "worm gear"

 

It was a nice spring day today so I was able to drive both Model As. Took the wife and daughter for a nice cruise in the roadster then took the coupe out for a short spin. Have to take advantage of nice days this time of year. Snow is forecasted for my day off on Friday.


Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.

 

Had to pick some stuff up- blended right in!

 

the April 2019 Banger Meet is open for discussion! https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/april-2019-banger-meet-no-fooling-just-4.1145008/