Projects Updates on my 33 Plymouth PD Coupe Build

Okay! Snow has FINALLY cleared enough to get back on this project. Working on mocking up the steering column and u-joints. Going to use an early Valiant floor shift column as it has turn signals, no shifter, and it is Mopar! As I said earlier, I bought a grant adapter and the 15" red metalflake steering wheel for it. Today I set the engine and tranny in it with the headers to find out where to mount the steering shafts and u-joints. Ignore the 2x6 under the mounts, I have the correct ones but didn't get around to installing them yet. I installed the frame mounts with another identical engine, except it turned out to have very long freeze cracks so that was when I bought the New Yorker to get this engine. I have given myself 5 months to get this driveable. No, not finished, but driveable as I plan to have it for my driver at Bonneville this year. Long ways to go and a short time to get there.....

Here are some pics this evening.

Dave

 

I also discovered the difference between Sedan and Coupe rear springs. Sedan has standard eyes and 8 leaves and Coupe has reverse eyes and 7 leaves. I reversed the main leaves and shortened the second leaves and removed one more leaf on both springs. That brought it down considerably. And of course, I cleaned and painted the springs and shackles and greased them up.

Dave

 

Here ya go Vern

Dave

 

Looks cool Dave keep it up.

 

Hey Dave the more I look at this built the more I wish it was mine.

 

any updates Dave?

 

Did some more work on the '33 today. Was finally able to get the drivers side broken lower door hinge removed. Ended up welding a flat bar with a hole drilled in the end to the straight slot counter sunk screws as I was unable to get them out any other way. This actually worked well, but of course I now need new screws!



Also got the correct engine mounted portion of the motor mounts installed on this engine. They fit as they should.



Then I pulled the trunk lid off my '34 Dodge Coupe and put it on the '33 Plymouth for a test fit. Not too bad, just a little more jacking the body around and it will fit great. My '33 trunk lid needs recurved some to fit properly but now I know how much to change on it.



Worked on the front axle some too, dropping it about 3/4". I will probably go with a smaller tire eventually too.

I also set a stock '34 DB radiator in the shell, or at least tried to! It is about 5" too tall due to location of Model A type crossmember so now I know I will have to find something else that will fit. I figured that was the case but had to check and see.

Temporarily hung the rear frame cover from the '34 DB on this to see how it looks. I'm undecided what I will do in that area.

It feels good to be back on this one! More to come soon.

Dave

 

No new pics but I did do some work on the '33. Scrounged a drivers door striker and outside door handles and got those working and also a trunk striker plate installed. Need to check my other trunk lid and see if it has the hook part of the latch it self as this one does not. Been doing a little leg work on figuring out pedals and clutch linkage. I did a separate post for that. I have a stock set of pedals and the bracket trimmed down and clamped roughly in place but not sure that will work. Had some thoughts about hydraulics for the clutch but don't really want to go that route. Had a race car friend suggest a cable for the clutch so will give that some thought. Have also thought about a '39 Ford pedal set. Any ideas guys? I know, pics, right?!

Got some things to do tomorrow including painting on the porch I am finishing up enclosing but may later in the day I can do a little more on the car. A little each day gets more done than one might think.

Dave

 

That has one sexy grill on it

 

Worked on the '33 some yesterday. Put it on the 4 post lift so I could work on building the tranny mount. Dug through my LaSalle trannys and found a really good tranny mount and 1 transmission with the correct shift levers for a floor shift. I ended up fabbing a steel strap plate and welded it in the front of the X member for the trans mount to bolt to. I located it towards the bottom of the frame to allow for spacers to adjust the trans up and down if needed.

While it was on the lift I used the boat winch I have for pulling non running vehicles on the lift and hooked it to the rear of the frame and pulled the body down until the rubber snubbers hit the axle. There was just about the right amount of clearance from the center section to the bulge in the floorpan. That makes me happy as I like the height it sets in the rear.

Today I went looking for clutch parts at my local parts store. Seems they only sell complete clutch kits. Bummer. I need a 10.5" clutch cover to fit the Hemi flywheel and a disc to fit a LaSalle 1.25" 10 spline trans shaft and a throw out bearing and sleeve that fits the LaSalle front snout, which measures about 1.557". I also still need a clutch fork from what I have found would be a '55-'61 Chiverlay. I'm a Mopar and Ford guy so most of the GM and all the Chev stuff is pretty foreign to me. The bolt pattern on the flywheel is even spaced all around and is on a 11.5 circle. I am told 340 or big block Mopar uses that pattern. Year ago my Dad put a Chevy diaphram clutch in his 340 Mopar so I assume there must be one that would work for me, maybe in a kit with a 1.25" 10 spline disc? Any ideas guys? Portland swap meet this weekend so I hope to get info as to what to look for.

Thanks,
Dave

 

I think you can buy separate disc and pressure plates from Rock Auto.

 

The problem has been figuring out what will work. Ya can't go to rockauto.com and buy a LaSalle clutch disc and I can't just look for an International clutch disc without knowing what year and model, etc. Several people have told me International will work, but they have no knowledge as to what one.

I did pick up a clutch fork at the Portland Swap Meet Friday that I think will work. I still need a T/O bearing but I am thinking one of the Chev ones may do the job.

I also bought a couple floor shifters that should work, one is a Hurst, the other has no name but looks really good. Both are flat bar levers, not the cheapy round ones. Somewhere in all my junk I have a really good 3 speed shifter that I used on my very 1st car, a '61 Falcon that Dad and I shoehorned a '57 312 Y-block into! I'll use that one if I can find it, otherwise it will be one of these.

The other item I will need is the transmission driveshaft front yoke. I was told Powerglide yoke will fit, then the local Chevy guys tell me all the Chevy yokes are the same. True? False? Any advice?

Thanks,
Dave

 

PG and 350 turbo, saginaw and muncie, except the rock crusher, are all the same.

 

Thank you Mike! That's the kind of info I need!

Dave

Edit: PG, 350, 400 etc are all different than LaSalle.

 

OK. I have ordered a clutch disc from Automotive Friction in Damascus Oregon and found and bought an NOS Lasalle T/O bearing assembly on ebay. Waiting for them to arrive, then I will decide if I want a diaphram or 3 fingered clutch cover. I went with 10.5" so I can run a 340/440 cover.

Now, I have 3 LaSalle trannys, 2 are a 1941 or later with slip yoke and the other 1 has the bolted on flange and should be 1939/40. I have been told by multiple people that these will accept a regular Powerglide/turbo 350/3 or 4 speed yoke. No way will that fit. I tried a brand new one and it is smaller on the O/D of the yoke than the O/D of the splined shaft! Now, on to the flanged ones. If I am correct in my understanding, those have a needle bearing in the tail end rather than a bushing like a slip yoke type. Can they be used with a slip yoke after removing the flange? I have yet to remove the flange. Man, this has been a journey! Sure would of been easier and cheaper to use one of my 340's and a 4 speed or automatic but that neither traditional or what I really want so onward and forward!

So, I need someone who really knows LaSalle transmissions to tell me what I actually need. I really want to have this running in time for Bonneville this year. No, not done, but drivable as transportation to and from camp to town and the salt.

Dave

 

Cool, that turns out nicely! I just found your build and will be watching!
Btw, do you know if a 33/34 Plymouth Coupe windshield frame will fit a 33/34 2dr Sedan? My 2dr Sedan windshield frame is badly rusted out and there´s a coupe one on ebay that is a lot better than mine... Sorry for hijacking!

 

I bet @F&J might know something to assist you.

 

'33 is different than '34 for sure. I THINK coupe and sedan are different but don't know that for sure, maybe not. '33 has slides on each side to prop open, '34 is a crank out windshield. '34 is also taller than '33.

Dave

Edit: '33 & '34 are same height but sedan is taller than coupe. '33 has slides on sides, '34 has center crank out.

 

LaSalle trans is going to look and feel just right good for you fighting through the challenges! Coupe looks awesome

 

I got the clutch disc today. It is perfect! It actually measures 10 3/8" which is what a Mopar disk also measures so it will fit perfectly with the Mopar clutch cover. I would prefer to run a diaphram cover but I think I will order a standard 3 finger style simply because that is what the LaSalle T/O bearing would have fit up to. When the T/O assembly gets here I will check it on my used cover and if correct I will order a new cover.

I still need a correct clutch fork that will fit the LaSalle/Hemi adapter which looks to use a stock LaSalle fork. Anyone have one for sale or know what else will work?

Dave

 

doing good pal

 

Digging this build. I'm working on a 34 Plymouth coupe with my dad. We were missing our trunk lid so had to make one. Didn't take long with a metal brake and a shrinker if you need to go that route.

 

I got the T/O bearing assembly, NOS. I also ordered the diaphram type pressure plate/clutch cover as it looks like Mopar uses the same T/O for 3 fingered or diaphram. I like how well the one in my Barracuda holds and is SO easy to push vs the 3 finger that was in it. I also got the tranny mount finalized and trimmed down the pedal mount and tack welded it the the frame. I think that is going to work, albeit with either some creative linkage work or going hydraulic.
Sorry for lack of pics!

Dave

 

Personally I've always preferred to use the Borg and Beck style. They seemed to hold better for me!

 

Dick, in the past I would have agreed. Dad put a chevy diaprham in his 340 Duster many years ago and it wouldn't hold up to the power. 3 or 4 years ago I put a "made for Mopar" diaphram in my 340 Barracuda and it is a brute as far as holding but yet pushes like it isn't even hooked up. My left knee isn't very good so that is part of the choice but if this new one works like the one I have I will be more than happy.

Dave

 

I've done a couple other posts searching for stuff so here is a summary or update where I am now. Ended up having a drive shaft and yoke built at Newhouse Mfg. in Redmond Oregon. Here is a link to all that:
https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/lasalle-transmission-help-needed.1147534/


Found out today the front axle I have is a '38 Dodge car wavy tube axle, not a '37, as it has 11"x2" brakes instead of 10". Ordered new shoes, cylinders, master cylinder, etc.

Been working on steering components. Got the steering box mount final location and welded it solid. Got steering column position located and DD shaft and u-joints mocked in.

Clutch and brake pedal position seems to be perfect. Still working on whether the clutch will be linkage or hydraulic.

Front shocks have been on for a year or two. Rear lower shock mounts are a no brainer on Mopar lower spring pads and I have upper studs to locate and mount.

Ordered all the rubber for the windows so now I need to call Bob's Classic Auto Glass and get the glass ordered. Maybe I can get that done today.

Soon I will pull the body and engine and do final welding, grinding, etc and paint the chassis. Suppose I should get a radiator too!

Son has racing Friday and Saturday night this week and I'm crew chief/gopher, then Mother's day on Sunday so work on this is about over for this week. Don't forget your Mother or mother of your children guys!

Dave

 

Clutch is going to be manual! I welded some bar stock onto the original short clutch arm off the pedal shaft, pointing down instead of up. That puts it in line with the clutch fork. I think it will work fine.

I had heated and bent the steering arms at the spindles quite some time back so today I bent the ends down making the tie rod and drag link sit where they should and the ends at the right angles. Everything clears plenty and it steers back and forth easily. I also took a little off each end of the tie rod as it was just a little too long and the tie rod ends bottomed out before. Perfect now.

Dave

 

Been spending a fair amount of time on this project and things are going well. I got the clutch linkage completed. I pulled the engine and trans back out to install a pilot bushing and to clean the engine of 67 years of grease and dirt! I found a pilot bushing that was the right internal size, .590" but was too large on the OD so I chucked it up in my little lathe and turned it down to the needed .750 plus a thousandth for tight fit. Also turned a driver as I broke the 1st one installing it.

Since I am getting short on time I am going to leave the '52 heads and 2 barrel intake and carb until later as I know the engine runs okay as is. Later on I will install the '54 heads and 4 barrel intake and carb for a few more ponies and just plain cooler looking carb! I pulled the oil pan and thoroughly cleaned it inside and out and will be pulling the oil pump to install a plug to allow for the full flow oil filter adapter to work properly. I am getting a jig and tap and the plug from @73RR to tap the crank to 1/2-20 bolts which I ordered from ARP and also picked up some Mr. Gasket clutch pressure plate bolts to permanently install the diaphram clutch setup, which really feels good when pushing it.

Body comes off soon to finish welding and grinding on the frame and then paint it and also the bottom of the body.

Glass got ordered from Bob's Classic Auto Glass in Blachley Oregon. He is a great guy to deal with and gave me a huge break for being a return customer! Thanks Bob!

Got all the brake components except for hard lines, which I will buy locally as I need them.

Here are some engine pics mostly cleaned up and the pilot bushing installed. Tempted to paint the Hemi back silver but will probably stick with the red theme with black body.

Dave

 

Dave, you are getting too much work done. Wish I could join you at B-ville but not this year. Have you used cunifer for hard brake lines, VERY easy to use and stronger then steel lines.

 

I like it . Man, you have a neat collection sitting at your shop.