I plan on getting this Transgo kit: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/trg-350-3/overview/. Has anyone used it or something similar? It's supposed to allow full manual operation. I read that some of these kits will increase the line pressure and ruin seals more quickly. Rumor or fact? I had one of Transgo's more basic kits, the kind that just firms up the shifts but doesn't convert to full manual operation a few years ago in a 318 71 Valiant, and I thought it did exactly what it was supposed to do, I was very satisfied with it.
A full manual auto trans for daily street driving gets old pretty fast. (This is coming from a guy with a 5 speed manual trans. I'm an old man, I want an auto trans to shift automatically.) Get a good shifter that positively locks into each gear, up and down the shift pattern. If the trans is an OD trans, the shifter needs to accommodate the extra forward gears. Gene
As long as it’s not a reverse shift pattern Sux at a redlight when ya rev it up trying to look cool then try to take off in3rd and stall it
I presently have a Transgo shift kit in one of my TH400s, and found that for street use, I prefer the auto over manually shift option. Like gene, I am old but I still have a couple of cars with 5 speed manual trannys that I enjoy. I just don't think I lose any advantage by running the less radically modified TH400. The pressure is boosted slightly on the transmission and I am using synthetic transmission fluid, which lowers the tranny temp and speeds shifting. It feels like a performance transmission, and yet doesn't feel so aggressive that it isn't fun to drive. Bob
Thanks for the responses. This is for a T bucket which I drive now and then for short distances, so it's pretty far from a daily driver. I wanted to go with the manual just because I thought it would make the car more involving and fun to drive.
I've been running a TH400 with a Coan Racing manual valve body for the last couple of years. I don't mind having to shift and I really like the ability to downshift exactly when I want to.......I just about don't need any stink'n brakes. Really makes it easy and fun to drive.
Keep in mind, the TH350 direct clutch and intermediate assembly. are WEAK, especially without ANY modifications that "should" have been done when the valve body went in to beef it up. The "high impact" clutch hub often is't enough, and updating to a 36 element over ride or diode, is the only real fix. Lightweight car, POWERGLIDE is a serious consideration, IF you can even find one; they have't been in production since 1973, and are starting to get hard to find. Powerglide is LIGHTER, easier to rebuild, and there's a TON of aftermarket parts for them. If you want to stick with your TH-350, that's fine, just don't go with an aftermarket, full manual, valve body, unless you're ready/willing to update the rest of the trans/converter, at the same time. I am Butch/56sedandelivery.
Way overboard here, in my opinion. The only thing you'll need here is a hardened intermediate sprag race, especially with jacked up- line pressure and a shift kit. We're only talking about a fly weight T bucket ,with a SBC, I assume. BTW, what's "weak" about a T 350 direct clutch?
I ran a full manual automatic on the street in my Chevy II (daily driver) for about 4 years. No problems what-so ever. I liked it that way. Mike
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