Looks good, what are the plans for it? I had a '59 Fairlane 500 for a while that still belongs to a local club guy, and I'm finishing a '59 Edsel 2 door post so I like to see this era Ford get built.
Also got a new tat since then. Was in rehab and stuff for a bit. Cleaned and knocking out shit now. Sent from my iPad using H.A.M.B.
Probably slam it on bags and do some subtle customizing. Will paint it someday myself. Lots to do before that. Sorry for the late response Sent from my iPad using H.A.M.B.
I agree. I love the panel type stuff. I just have to see what I’m thinking when the time comes Sent from my iPad using H.A.M.B.
Member Toucan on here has or used to have my old '59. I put a 390 in it to replace the tired old 352. He did a lot of beautification and I lost track of him.
Is it wise to do a diagonal split brake line system for the galaxie? instead of just back and just front? If so. Anyone have a diagram for this? I'm broke and have no help
As in, one circuit controls one front and one rear line, and the other controls one front and one rear? That's not how you want to do that. If a line fails on a dual chamber master, you want the brake power all in front or all in rear, not one side or another, even if you went left front/right rear and vice versa. One front brake working and one not is going to wrench the steering wheel out of your hand in a panic stop. A '67 Mustang drum/drum non-power master cylinder bolts into an otherwise stock '59 Ford and is really cheap to buy, plumb both fronts into one half of the master and both rears into the other half. You want to make sure your pushrod has the right length also, if you lose a line and the pedal bottoms out before you get pressure in the remaining half of the master, you still won't be able to stop.
SQUABLOW: I definitely already installed a aftermarket, two circuit master with a (think it was an 8" booster) I also have a combo valve that I haven't figured out how to install yet. but I think I'm on the right path. I had to change my cobra valve covers unfortunately because they were just too tall to some low profile black powder edelbrock valve covers. but that's ok. They give just enough room to get that booster in there. Just gotta figure out how the new lines will run in maybe a diagram or something, since I'm going from 1 circuit to 2 circuit (also with all the new equiptment) EX: master, combo valve, lines, new Scarebird disc kit in the front. I'm so confused. Hope this explains this all enough... Thanks Squablow! appreciate the response. All I have is time now. So I'm trying to go to the shop as much as I can. Our shop is closed down right now. (We sell and service fire extinguishers) So its a good quarantined place to work!
Not sure what you mean by combo valve? But generally when doing a straight-across dual chamber conversion, your car originally had one line going down from the master cylinder to a distribution block, and that block had 3 lines coming off of it. One to each front wheel, and one to the back which got split again on top of the rearend. The new setup would run the long line going to the back right to one pot on the master cylinder, and the other pot on the master cylinder would run down to that distribution block, with the port that originally ran to the back getting blocked off.
Squablow. Here’s the combination valve I was talking about. I had the seller send a diagram which I think answers a lot of my questions. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I used a CCP or CPP? distribution block on my Ford. It has a rear bias adjuster built into it. Something with internal valving, I would avoid it.
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