Hot Rods sbc fuel pump spacer...

Decided to change from an electronic fuel pump, to a mechanical pump. Currently the car has a four bolt block off plate. The pump of course mounts with two bolts. It's been a while since I installed an sbc pump and when I dug into my fuel pump stash, I found a 1/8" thick, four bolt spacer plate. Am I right assuming this is necessary between the fuel pump and the block? (I also have a new push rod.)

 

Yes that bolts to the block with the two small bolts, then the pump bolts with the 5/16" bolts

 

Yes......should be a spacer plate with an oblong hole for the fuel pump arm to go thru as well as two holes to attach the plate to the block and two holes to allow the pump bolts to go thru into the bloc. Has this block ever had a fuel pump pushrod in it......double check.....is there a hole there ? Also, there should be a hole in the front of the block that is tapped for a 3/8" ? bolt. Make sure for some reason there is not a long bolt in that hole as it will intrude into the pushrod bore in the block.

 

Also......the trick to putting the pushrod in the bore and not having it continually slide down while attaching the pump....find the hole in the front of the block which I referenced. Get a bolt long enough to intrude into the pushrod bore......grind off threads from last 1/2" of bolt......put pushrod all the way in......hand tighten the bolt to hold pressure on the pushrod......install the pump.....REMOVE the bolt......put short bolt into hole which will not intrude into bore.

 

Thanks guys. The block is a 283 and it doesn't have a bolt hole in the front of the block. I thought all small block chevys used the same fuel pump and push rod...

 

Be the first SBC block I be ever seen without frt motor mount bolt holes .?????

 

I'm just about to learn something here. No bolt holes in the front of a 283 Block eh?

 

Take a picture of the front of the Block just above the water pump on the Right hand side an show us the vertical web please.

 

Yep, your correct as I know it to date. Maybe we'll both learn something. That web will also identify a 283 from a 327.

 

Wrong guys,have ran into blocks without the holes-the boss is there,but not drilled and tapped.always its the right side[opposite side from fuel pump]most common on 307 blocks-not fun when you discover it AFTER the engines built

 

Wouldn't that then mean his motor is not a 283? and would it still have the early web?

 

My mid-60's 327 has the DS holes drilled and tapped, but not the PS.

Gary

 

Best picture I can get, at night, in the shop... It has bosses cast into the block but no bolt holes. It also has no holes in the head for mounting accessories such as an alternator. Near as I can tell, without scraping the paint off, the serial number on the block is: T0522GF

 

I think those were early 60's blocks. Back in the mid 60's we had to drill and tap those holes in a 283 block for our Limited Sportsman '56 Chevy stock car.
Maybe someone with a better memory than mine can tell you where to position the timing mark to get the eccentric on the low side. A little grease or assembly lube on the rod can be used to hold it up out of the way if the engine isn't hot. Another way that was common in the shop where I worked was to put a hacksaw blade in the hole and bow it up to hold the rod up then curl the pump arm in under it. Once the arm was in and under the rod you slip the blade out and start the bolts.