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Projects Seeking Help: 1929 Ford Roadster Pickup “pre-war traditional build”

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by J.Leedom, Mar 14, 2019.

  1. J.Leedom
    Joined: Sep 30, 2016
    Posts: 6

    J.Leedom

    I’m in the process of starting a build of a very traditional (pre-war) 29 roadster pickup. This project was given to me by my grandfather (in boxes) prior to him passing. I am hoping to get some advise / resources for the following options / improvements from factory. Description of project at end of this post (just for your reference / curiosity):

    1. Braking
    - Any good resources for ‘39 Lincoln (self adjusting) brakes
    - where did you mount your master cylinder (assuming not on fire wall)

    2. Steering
    - what is a good upgrade option (pre-war) from factory? What steering column / box did you use? What were the modifications required?
    - note: I am hoping to keep the stock steering wheel and wrap in “Bentley-type” racing wrap.

    3. Gage Cluster
    - I am going to keep the stock tank functional and therefore do not want to modify the NOS tank I have in anyway. However, would like to give the gage cluster a different look. What have you all done with respects to modifying the gage cluster (without modifying the tank)?

    4. 1932 Grill Shell
    - What modifications are required to run a 1932 grill shell on an otherwise stock 29 model A body?

    5. Lighting
    Any suggestions for period-correct (again, pre-war) headlight and tail light options?


    REALLY appreciate everyone’s input and thoughts here. Getting extremely excited about this project now that I am in a position (of time) to get after it!



    Description of Project (for those interested):

    Traditional 29 roadster pickup with pre-war modifications (as if inspired by that era race cars)

    Power train: 4banger with Riley 2 port overhead backed up by a Mitchell dual shifter overdrive unit

    Chassis: 4” dropped front axel, upgraded steering and brakes (pre-war), otherwise stock

    Body: only real modifications considering are a 32 ford grill, chopped windshield (and maybe a “lay flat” option). Paint either black or a 1929 correct DuPont paint code for a dark gray.

    Wheels: still working out tire selection, however, going with black wire KH’s. Considering a mild “big and littles”
     
  2. oldbanger71
    Joined: Nov 18, 2008
    Posts: 167

    oldbanger71
    Member

    Hi J.Leedom, Would be nice to see some pic's of what you've got. I would say; search the hamb for ideas, if you want it to be unique, use your imagination in Style and apperiance . Technically it's allways good to know your limits and take advise. Manny things are up to ones taste, therefore i would use a F-1 Steeringbox , i guess the F-100 looks a little oversized, but depends if you run fenders or not. 7.00 and 5.50 Tyres are nice.
    Anyhow the grate fun starts here, right now.
     
  3. J.Leedom
    Joined: Sep 30, 2016
    Posts: 6

    J.Leedom



    Thank you for the response! Attaching a picture of the project so far. Not much going on...yet. The Mitchell dual shift overdrive is supposed to arrive in May and then I can start pulling the chassis together.

    [​IMG]
     
    48fordnut, kidcampbell71 and alanp561 like this.
  4. brokenspoke
    Joined: Jul 26, 2005
    Posts: 2,968

    brokenspoke
    Member

    great start....nice engine
     
    J.Leedom likes this.

  5. flatheadpete
    Joined: Oct 29, 2003
    Posts: 10,484

    flatheadpete
    Member
    from Burton, MI

    Lookin' good! Gotta love an overhead banger conversion.
     
    J.Leedom likes this.
  6. 97
    Joined: May 18, 2005
    Posts: 1,983

    97
    Member

    34 front axle gives you cast iron brake drums, and a slight drop...pre war! Use A rear axle or early 32 , maybe 34 , but use the 32/34 brakes....no need for a mastercylinder ...all rod brakes...you can improve them with Ted's floaters, but Ted wasn't around before the war! Well not WW11 anyway.
    If you must use hydraulics (would have been just prewar and very high end) you will have to find a 32-39 K or X member to mount it on, or once again if your strictly pre war is slightly flexible a F1 X member will work, it is all documented here if you just use the search engine.
    Mitchell overdrive is not pre war! Better off using a fabricated quickchange... or a later cast one would possibly be acceptable.
    Is your OHV setup pre war? I dunno , because bangers are flatheads in my cave.
    F1 steering, or late 30s Hudson to be strictly prewar ( see HAMB member NealinCA)
    https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/members/nealinca.477
    Dash? Could be anything if you use your imagination, but fitting it with the stock fuel tank in place will be tricky.

    32 shell trim and fit...look at pictures on HAMB.
    The rest of it?
    Search search search, is the only answer ....too many options for one definitive answer.
     
    J.Leedom likes this.
  7. Nice looking start to a cool project...
    There is a lot of very useful information in Vern Tardel's book
    Chappy
     
    J.Leedom likes this.
  8. alchemy
    Joined: Sep 27, 2002
    Posts: 20,505

    alchemy
    Member

    I agree that a 32 K member or an F-1 crossmember would be wise to allow corresponding pedal sets and a later (39) transmission. I'm pretty sure the 42 pickups had the same frame setup as the postwar F-1, so you wouldn't really be cheating if you used the parts from a postwar F-1. Steal the steering box from the same F-1. If the part number cast on the outside indicates a postwar date, grind it off. I can guarantee the innards are the same parts used since the late 30's. And you could modify the top of the shaft with a taper and install an early wheel, along with the horn button/rod. I did this on my sedan.

    b28.JPG

    For the dash you might want to see if you can float another dash in front of the tank. Otherwise there isn't really any room for a modified panel that will work with the tank's tight space. Look at 38 Oldsmobile, I think I remember seeing a pic of them being used before. Or at the very least you could use one of the accessory gauge panels that screw in place of the stock panel, but allow a couple extra gauges to be hung below. I think the repro houses still sell these things.
     
    J.Leedom and oldbanger71 like this.
  9. oldbanger71
    Joined: Nov 18, 2008
    Posts: 167

    oldbanger71
    Member

    pretty clean to start with... so is the garage... will follow your build.
     
    J.Leedom likes this.
  10. Your build sheet reads early post war. Change the title and have fun. Sounds like a good plan.
     
    J.Leedom likes this.
  11. J.Leedom
    Joined: Sep 30, 2016
    Posts: 6

    J.Leedom

    Appreciate all your feedback! A lot to iron out on the plan / overall look for sure. HAMB looks to be a great resource. Will start digging!


    Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
  12. J.Leedom
    Joined: Sep 30, 2016
    Posts: 6

    J.Leedom

    Thank you!


    Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
  13. 51 mercules
    Joined: Nov 29, 2008
    Posts: 3,871

    51 mercules
    Member

    Great start! Riley Head!Cool!
     
    Last edited: Mar 14, 2019
  14. Roothawg
    Joined: Mar 14, 2001
    Posts: 24,574

    Roothawg
    Member

    I guess my only question is when did dropped axles actually appear? I'm not sure that a late 30's early 40's build would even have one.
     
  15. 51 mercules
    Joined: Nov 29, 2008
    Posts: 3,871

    51 mercules
    Member

    Clings Aftermarket Products has brakes, master cylinders and trans adapters. You shouldn't have to change your cross member with their kits.
     
    J.Leedom likes this.
  16. Here is a pre war banger that I built a couple of years ago. In my searches, I couldn't find anybody doing dropped axle's back then. I did mine the "old school" way using 1930's Ford parts. I also went with the mechanical brakes on mine like 97 mentioned. My build thread cover's most of what I did, there are several others that have documented theirs with build thread's.

    StrayKat 500 2018 (2).jpg

    StrayKat 500 2018 (3).jpg
     
  17. J.Leedom
    Joined: Sep 30, 2016
    Posts: 6

    J.Leedom

    Much appreciated! I’ll take a look at your build link as well as others! Great looking A!


    Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
  18. 51 mercules
    Joined: Nov 29, 2008
    Posts: 3,871

    51 mercules
    Member

    Here's my 29 Roadster Kevin Gill built it. I have a Model b motor, riley 4 port and Halibrand 101, 39 trans that's going in it. It has juice brakes, blc headlights and model a rear tail light..[​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]
     

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