Hi, my original '32 chassis is back from sandblasting and metallizing. Before the primer and to have a smooth surface, what do you use to fill in the ruggedness ? Lead don't hang because metallizing. What's your advice ? Thanks.
By saying metalizing is that applying a coat of zinc. We call that galvanizing. I would think regular old body filler might work or the All Metal or fibreglass type would be in order. Better minds will correct me and steer you in th right direction. Good luck!
Skim with body filler and sand back fill the pits. That doesn't look like zinc plating - was it hot dip galvanized? Sent from my moto g(6) play using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
From https://www.metalix.be/fr/traitements-de-surface/metallisation-galvanisation/ "During metallization (after blasting to obtain a roughness of Sa 3), a zinc wire is made liquid by means of a flamethrower gun and applied to the part, where it solidifies."
fill the inperfections with mud and spray it up with high build primer, sand, spray, sand spray until ti is good. Sent from my Chromebook 11 Model 3180 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I would be not happy the way the metallizing was done, normaly after sandblasting, there should be no trace of rust . The surface now, looks not like everything was metallized properly. I do Sandblasting for profession since 30 years. Anyhow, if the look of your ride, should be oldstyle ; leave the imperfections, paint it 2 k and show the age.... just my two cents
The "rust" you see, is done by handling the chassis to work on it, come from jackstands, tools and dirty by our hands. I can tell, there's no more rust on it. The result I'm looking for is something like the Henderson roadster. Simple, not especially a show car but must look nice.
Try leading a small area and see what happens. Zinc was often alloyed with lead in the formation of "pot metal" which was used to make cast trim parts for many early cars. This would lead me to believe that the two metals are compatible...but that does not mean that they would necessarily "stick" to each other. Good luck! https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pot_metal
Nothing wrong with a smear of good quality filler. Upol Fantastic or Upol Dolphin Glaze would do it Sent from my iPad using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
What he has done is essentially "galvanize" his frame with a layer of zinc. No automotive paint products that I know of will adhere to galvanized metal for very long without special preparation - as many backyard bodymen have learned the hard way. I'd hate to have him finish his frame and then have the filler separate in months or years and ruin the whole job. He's already created a problem by using an inappropriate method of metal finishing so he's got to be very careful not to compound his problem by using conventional refinishing methods and/or products. Here's some info from Sherwin-Williams website on the issue. I'm sure there is more from other manufacturers and he should do all possible research to be sure he does not end up with an even worse problem at some point down the road. https://www.sherwin-williams.com/ho...eeling-cracking/peeling-from-galvanized-metal EDIT: If this was me I'd contact the Professional Services Customer Service Department (NOT the regular customer service department!!!!) of several paint manufacturers - including non-automotive paint suppliers like Krylon and Rust-Oleum - and ask them for help. They've got experts just waiting to be asked these tough questions and should be able to provide a real solution. If in doubt, ask an expert. Good luck!
Maybe need to have it blasted again. I’ve seen chassis finished in flame sprayed zinc but it’s usually left bare. Sent from my iPad using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Is it possible to powdercoat the frame and apply filler to that? Sent from my SM-T350 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
If u powder coat it, you'll have to use a product like All Metal first. USE clean gloves to handle the bare frame ! We blast & prime/paint often in our shop. We use Rustoleum "Rusty Metal Primer & top coat it with any color of same product (on frames/chassis) that is, usually on trucks or not show cars or most Hot Rods. On something like you have, I'd prime with a self etching primer (CLEAN metal first) & then a "work over" primer. That is one that you can use body filler over. Plenty brands avail. We use PPG epoxy. Keep sanding
Thanks. This is a process which I had never heard of, hence my question in post 3. Not sure how effective it is. I would like to know more about how effective it is.
For any of these suggestions to work, would the frame need to be sand blasted again to be clean of the zinc process, or sufficiently roughed up for paint/powder coating to stick ? Hopefully someone with more knowledge of this process will comment.
I have been using the materials & “process” for 25 + years that I mentioned. I am driving a truck that was done that way in 1988. Good luck
Metalized spray was used quite a bit on steel boats at one time. May want to check with a paint manufacturer like Interlux or BASF for boat paint
You'll be fine . I had a wrought iron gat made years ago and I had it metal sprayed before priming and painting it . That was 15 years ago and it's still in great condition and has been outside 24/7 for all this time . I'd give it a skim coat of body filler where it needs to be and sand it with 150 grit , spray on a good quality catalyzed primer ( I like Valspar Direct to Metal) Sand that with 220 and re-prime , sand again with 400 and then apply whatever topcoat that you've decided on . Not a big deal just a lot of labor , good luck .
Thanks you all for your replies ! Metallization isn't a wrong method. For a brand new chassis, it will be perfect. You can let the bare metal in the rain for life, it will never be rusty ! But mine is 87 years old and was damaged by rust. It was blasted on september and still in bare metal now. We cleaned up the surface with this brush with a good result. The problem is when you apply the acid on the metal, it's impossible to clean the asperities properly. The acid stay in the holes and lead don't stick. I think, it will be sand blasted again, but without any treatment next.
I've seen cars done that way, if not done properly be ready for it to bubble in the sun. Personally I don't want to deal with something done that way, sure it won't rust but the process to have it painted and for the paint to stick is too much of a gamble in my opinion. A guy who is spraying metal like this advised me to spray a very thinned down primer. Never got a chance to try it though.
It's allways difficult to tell from pic's without all facts. We have restored manny vintage cars, Jeeps and Land Rover's with brand new chassis that where metalsprayed and encountered this very problem . In the years before we used to go the liquid ammonia-way and leave it for 2-3 weeks to the elements in the garden but we have developed further, in the last 10 years or so, it proved to be effectiv to Spray liquid ammonia: mix 10 liter of normal water with half a liter of liqud ammonia ( Salmiak 25% at the drogist-shop) 1 spoon of dishwascher soap, mix well, use a scrubspongepad and rub the surface well in the detail-area too, until a gray foam developes, after 10 minutes leaving this foam rinse well with normal water. After complete dry start to paint with primer soon .. ( sinc salt develope quick without noticing ). paint it with RUCO reaction primer or something similar . then go on with 2K filler and 2K topcoat. We had no flaking off or anything, eaven though we use the cars for heavy off-road and pressure-wash for decades. Don't forget that the metalised process is not raching the hollow rooms and backcut areas, they have to be treated differentley, for which we use Anti corrosion-grease for steeleropes to flood the hollows : Liqui Moly 6173 or Mike Sanders, just to name a fiew. just my two cents...
That's what I'd do,at this point. Isn't that one of the uses of that process? Is it not the same thing used to build up and fix Swiss cheesy floor pans? Spray it, samd the high spots back to steel leaving the deposits to fill the lows and spray it again, and again. We all know thicker metal is stronger than thinner, We all know the chain is strong as its weakest link, Every pit in that frame is thinner weaker metal and the natural consequence of that is known and stated above
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