Anybody install a Cragar OHV in a 28/29 without modifications to the dash(firewall) lip? I got mine installed but can't remove the valve cover without removing the front motor mount and jacking up the rear of the trans. I'm running a stock front mount and float a motor mounts in back with an F150 trans. I've run out of ideas.
I cant cut the rocker cover without a complete rebuild of the mating surface and its this mating surface that hangs up. I moved the oil fitting to the front but the boss for the fitting on the back end was still hanging up. The wiring box was removed and a plate was put mounted on the inside. I ground the boss down to match the shape of the cover but the next hang up was the lip of the valve cover. Still no go. As much as I hate to grind into a good piece of original metal I see no way other than to remove a section of the dash lip. I'll do that today since I have to move on. I would sure like to hear if others have found a way to avoid this as the engine may end up going in a different car.
This one belongs to @denis4x4 its close to the lip , perhaps PM him . I need to look at my cragar to see if the rocker gear will hag it up from moving forward to come off . Heck the lip is only metal ,cut away. Please dont cut the rocker cover.
I believe the valve cover on the Dan Price/Cragar is higher than the original. The cover above is definitely different, as is the head itself. The Dan Price reproduction head is not the same as an original Cragar. The DPC head has a down draft intake on the opposite side of the head than the exhaust. That creates a major problem in closing a stock hood with dual 97's on the Dan Price manifold. I'm hoping to fabricate an airbox that will work with a hood, but that comes after I get it running. FWIW I took a saw and die grinder to the lip, removed the electrical connection box, switched the oil line from the back to the front, ground the boss down on the back and finally took a couple of whacks with a 4# body massager, and now the VC comes off and on easily. I was hoping there was a way to accomplish this without hacking up original parts, but what the hell, its my car and the restorers already hate me. I hated to cut the sheet metal lip, so there is no way I would cut up an irreplaceable original valve cover. I'd still like to know what others have done that might be better than what I ended up doing. When I get it all done I'll post some pictures.
Maybe the Dan Price head is taller than an original CRAGER to start with, since the intake is on top. Bob
I dont know the difference between a Dan Price head and a Steve Serr miller head, but an original vintage Cragar cover is 3.2” and the original Cragar head is 4.5” tall . A Steve Serr Miller cover is 3.17” and a Serr head is 4.67” tall. So they are all in the ballpark of similar. These numbers do not include a rocket cover gasket.
I've got a Miller Schofield conversion in my 29. No float a motor. It is tight to the firewall lip. It is a challenge to get the valve cover off. Cutting down the rear valve cover stud helped a lot. I just put a Cragar OHV in my '30 Vicky and it was too high on the back. It has float a motor rear mounts in it. Dropped the engine height I replaced the lower .95 thick squishy rubber mount with .650 thick delrin machined to the other dimensions of the original. It worked well...that might work Good luck Sent from my XT1254 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
The CRAGER head in post #4 is an original circa 1935 in a 1929 CCPU. I picked up a Roy Creel reproduction valve cover several years ago and ran into the same problem. The engine is a B with a ‘32 front engine mount and FAM on the back. Bell housing is A so I can run a T-5. Can’t find the photo, but the original valve cover is lower in height than the reproductions.
My problem relates to the Dan Price/Cragar head, which isn't a Cragar head at all. The head itself is about 4.75 high, with the valve cover on its 8.5. On top of the problems that creates is that the only manifold DP makes is a log manifold with dual 97's and those sit so high there is only .9" between the top of the carb and the hood. No way to run a hood unless the tops of the carbs are left open with no stacks or air filters. Not something I prefer as I drive on dirt roads frequently. Living in a rain forest for half the year presents another problem with no hood. So here is the progression of modifications made: 1. I removed the oil line for the rockers from the back to the front and ground down the boss for the fitting. Still no good. 2. I removed the electrical box and made a plate to cover the holes. Still no good. 3. I moved the plate to the inside and still no good. 4. I gave up and cut the lip off the firewall. Still no good but getting close. 5. Finally I did what I often do when depressed and needing clearance. I took the 4# body massager and gave it 2 good metric whacks. Finally its all good. I hope its all worth it. I really thought this was going to be a Serr/Miller head but like Cool Hand Luke, we had a "failure to communicate".
I see that there are differences. I don't have any first hand experience with Prices or Serr heads though I did buy a valve cover from the latter and it doesn't fit...even close. I've heard good things about how Dans head performs so let us know. I bet you can get creative on the hood. Any other pictures would get views with enthusiasm....just saying... Good luck Sent from my XT1254 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Dan's current head is a 4 port, exhaust on the passenger side and intake on the driver side. I don't recall Dan making a 2 port, he was making a repo Thomas flathead but sold off the tooling several years ago. I will try to call him tomorrow to clarify this issue.I haven't talked to him in several months, and need to catch up on things anyway, we go to Bonneville together, hope I remember!
Current pictures with modifications of firewall lip and engine in place. I never could find a way to make this work without hacking the lip of the gas tank. Still lots to do to get it on the road but at least the engine and trans are bolted down and I should be able to go forward from here.
I had the same problem with my Gemsa powered 30 Pu, i wanted to be able to pull the cover easily, besides the engine looked strange tilted way to much backwards, so i found one of those flat steel front motor mount yokes, sectioned it about 5/8", leaved just enough clearance under the pulley and it took care of the eastetic issue and the accessibility.
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