Hot Rods Another "hot-rod-humbling-experience"!.......

Seems like just when you think..."just maybe I'll be able to take the old hot rod out and actually 'enjoy-it"...another bump in the road happens.
Just finished modifying and altering until I got an S-10 master cylinder in my old hot rod. Has pedal like never before! No wondering if...will it stop or not. All I need to do is make a couple of BUBBLE FLARES ..bleed and go.
4 days later and 5 sticks of brake line...I'm still trying to get a flare that will seal!
Now that crummy weather is back on the way I should have plenty of time to make it seal.GRRRRRRRRRRRR!
Anybody got a "bene-sug" on how to get a good seal on brake lines to master cylinder?!
6sally6

 

S-10's use bubble flares?

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That would be news to me too.

 

take a photo of the ports on the master.

 

For double flares make sure your dies are clean and no burrs. Also on the 2nd step with the cone I dont crush the hell out of the line , I seat the cone to get the double flare but let installing the line do the final forming of it, that way it seals to the flare no matter how it was machined.
For bubble flares and everything else now I use a mastercool hydraulic kit, makes perfect double flares, bubble flares, GM fuel line ends, etc..

 

Eastwood makes a great flaring tool. Bob

 

You're teas'in, right?!
Double/bubble type flares(for brake lines) have been used since the early 80's!
6sally6

 

Dunno, my '98 Silverado still has regular double flares and all the S-10 rears we have used all have had regular double flares. Only place I came across bubble flares is on foreign stuff. Haven't touched many other late models, tho

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“What we have heah is a failure to communicate”...........

Perhaps there is terminology problem of flare types, or a misunderstanding of the definition.
o= is a bubble flare. double flare begins as <>= then 2nd step produces >=

 

]“What we have heah is a failure to communicate”...........


i see what you did here ....

 

Failure to communicate indeed
If you’re trying to make bubble flares and make them work for your master cylinder then it’s no wonder they leak.
There’s a big difference between 45 degree double flares (which I believe you need) and bubble flares.

 

Funny how a "slip-of-the-letters" can = a big diff ,I guess
Take the B and transpose a D....double flare is what I guess I mean! NOT the plain old household water-pipe flare but a Double flare for the MC.
Got any secret formulas for "no-leak" suck-sess?!
6sally6

 

make sure the "cone" at the end of your flaring tool, spins free. a drop of oil so it moves. the cone frozen is the only time I have ever had one not make a good flair.

 

Making a good double flare is ‘neither rocket science’ nor easy as ‘falling off a log’. It requires (IMO) a combination of very good quality tools in good condition, tubing that is not excessively ‘hard’, a nice clean, deburred 90* end cut, accurate amount of tube protruding above the flaring tool (usually the double flare die has a stepped flange and that is used as a gauge for the tube height), a little lube on the die/tube end (not on the tubing where clamped in the tool). It is helpful to clamp the tool in a vise when tightening the flaring yoke as trying to hold all that in your hands tends to become....well, a ‘handful’.

Regarding the tubing hardness......you might consider sourcing some ‘ni-cop’ tubing. Made for hydraulic brake line use but not as hard a the more common and cheaper steel lines.

 

remember to put the nut on first.......I forget at least once a year and have to cut a perfect flair off............

 

After you've cut the tubing and before you put the nut on and start the flaring process, take a fine file and square the end of the tube flat, then debur the i.d.

Now, install your nut and make sure you have the correct amount of tubing sticking out. After clamping it in the holder, insert the "button" in the tube and positiong the flaring cone over the button. Tighten the clamp on the holder to secure the flaring cone in position. (If you don't do this you will break the stem off the button.)

Now, screw down the flaring cone until the button bottoms out. Remove the button and screw the flaring cone down to form the double flare. Keep everything clean and lubes and you should have a good flare.....assuming there are no pits in your flaring cone.

Good luck!

 

I did not see what flaring tool you are using but I have the mastercool tool and also used a different hydraulic flaring tool and both worked well. I have done three or four cars and the flares work. I am guessing it is the flaring tool.

Neal

 

Two things I did in addition to what rockable said is after the squaring and deburing part I took some wheel bearing grease and wiped the die with it before doing the flare. After it was done and made I installed it on the car and snugged them tight on the fitting. I then removed it, put it back on, and repeated this about 3 times per fitting. I read somewhere on here that that would help form the flare to the fitting. Haven't had 1 leak so far ...(knock on wood!!)

 

^^^^^ This right here ^^^^^

 

Tube nuts need to be the correct ones for your flare

 

These do work!
New Flare Lapping Tool for Brake and Fuel Lines

 

I tried a number of different flaring tools over the years and for my recent build I decided to buy Eastwood’s flaring tool.

Wow, I should have bought one a long time ago.
Perfect flares and easy too.

 

I agree. I made countless flares at my job over the years and now I own one of the finest tools ever from Eastwood. Making a double or a end "bubble" for a hose is a pleasure.

 

Everyone loves photos! Bob

 

Use brake fluid for lubricant, I would strongly discourage anything petroleum based on a brake part.


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Good stuff here!! Lots of information!! Pete

 

Try NiCop line... You can almost look at that stuff an it's flared... Living in the north east, we replace a lot of them...

 

Some times we make it too hard, its just a brake line, don't overthink it. I have a REALLY old mac tools flaring tool that has probably done 500 flares with few problems. I don't even know where I got it from....the biggest problem I ever had with it is sometimes it doesn't remember to put the nut on before making a flare, (goddamned thing), TAKE YOUR TIME, make sure everything is lined up square, cut the tube with a saw or grinder, file the end square and deburr it with the file handle, line it up in the tool with the appropriate marks, make the bubble first compressing the tool till it won't go anymore, then finish the flare by compressing the finish part of the flare till the tool seats with little pressure. Making sure of course that everything including your workspace is clean and your flaring tool is well oiled before starting.
Now....I know there's a lot of big words in here, but try to stay with it, works for me, every time, unless the tool forgets the nut.

 

There is something I have not seen mentioned here. I have an old Mac Tool flaring tool. In the instructions, it says to square the end first, then chamfer the end slightly. I have used this tool and method for more years than I can remember and I can't remember the last time I had a problem with a flair. I have never seen the need for a high $$$ flaring tool. Mine has been slightly modified. A 3/4" nut replaced the sliding T bar.

 

Bought the master cool hydraulic flaring tool 4 or 5 yrs ago, one of the best investments I have made. Quick and easy. Does single, double, metric bubble flares as well as GM push connect. It is expensive but worth it. Here in the north east I find myself doing brake and fuel lines weekly and can do them still on the rig if there's enough slack in the line to bend it down to accessable location. Second tool I found in a load of scrap while working at a salvage yard but haven't used it..