I thought that’s why houses have lally columns in them? Sent from my iPad using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
A Lally column is a metal column filled with concrete that’s used to support beams and floor joists in basements. Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
I’ve been a lurker here for quite a while and this is my first post. My father’s uncle was in that movie. He player Mr. Zika. The one that operated the dozer/crane.
the story was written in, and is loosely based on the town I live in................my house restoration was very similar..... great movie!
Putting one foot in front of the other over here New addition to the inside. 36 Buick banjo cut down to 16” for some extra leg room Rear shocks tacked in position Moving the body forwards had forced me to make a lot of changes before I could continue on moving forwards for good Had to section the lower frame of the rear seat to allow for room of the floor bump and rear axle center section Fuel tank filler install (waiting to drill the hole in the body just yet.). Soon I had to clock the tank filler and drill new holes to get it to mount with the correct angle to land along side the rear window. This filler neck has a 3" total height and is a 75° bend compared to the 15° that came with the tank. That would've landed on the rear corner of the roof. Wasn't digging that. Little too RR for me. New body mounts X 8 New rear seat mounts due to placement of new body mounts ( just roughed in) I’ll radius them and pretty them up A sketch A start (joe 51box came over with a bent up piece of 3/4” stainless tubing he made up for me) A Middle Practicing my tig skills on stainless tubing. A mocked up completed piece Temporarily mounted 1950’s style nerf bar for the rear. Now to make final mounts and get it bolted in Small steps to keep things moving forwards Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
This afternoons project was to fabricate a mount for the nerfbar. Came up with a mount that has “receiver” tubes for the top two bars to slide into and the lower two got threaded inserts. To thread a bolt into through the rear of the subrails. Worked out good. Took a while to figure out a way to have future access if needed. Then started on the hump over the rear crossmember. I had to make a hump for the banjo center section to have room to move, so I started there. Then laid out what I thought would work for the crossmember hump Hammered it over one of my anvils then did a ton of shrinking and hammer dolly work to get it where it needed to be Happy with it and fitment over the crossmember at that time. I cut the next piece and cleco’d it onto the arched panel I had just made. I’ve got to finish the back with another arched panel with a whole lot of shrinking and hammer dolly work then piece in the remainder of the floor to the rear of the body. There’s so much going on in the rear of this car it’s been a tough time making everything fit and work together. So far so good. Making progress Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
Impressive effort and results! Can't wait to see the finished car on the street. Sent from my SM-G930V using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Noo Noo ... just a persistent learner Thanks Greaser for the kind words. Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
Went down today to make sure Mike wasn’t posting pictures from old little pages books. The sedan is as he says , and is coming along beautifully. An inch change sure affects everything around it! It’s all coming together well though. Sent from my iPad using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Made the back panel of the crossmember cover this afternoon I was nervous to try to duplicate the front side because I’m good once not typically twice ha. I did it tho. Took 1/2 the time the first one did. Here’s a few extra pics of how I did it I took the same measurements and used blue tape to mark a line. Took a scribe at 1/8” and scribed an additional line inside the blue tape. To account for the bend Then taped it at that line. Tape is 3/4” so that will be the metal I bend over Sheered it off Used that as my mark to bend over the anvil Followed the tape line One strike with the hammer each time I moved the metal Looking up under the metal, to get things lined up each time Old section of rail road track came in handy again Trimmed down Cleco’ed in place. Have to notch it around the nerfbar mounts and finish up the rear panel to the back of the car. Man it’ll be nice knowing this is “done” for now. Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
Great job so far Mike, Just stumbled on your build. Lots of ideas for my first model a 29. Following u along. Your thread has answered many questions for me. I try to search always before asking! I’m in NJ, my daughter lives in Westford MA. Maybe catch u at a show some day out your way! Going to try to make the Fitchburg show in April.
I’ll be at Fitchburg as well as most of the other crazy New England hot rodders following along. I’m glad you’re following along and I’ve help answer some questions. I’m learning things each day and each step as I go. Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
In between shoveling and family I managed a few hours in the shop today. Got the rear of the hump fitted onto the floor and fitting great. Couldn’t leave it just flat steel, so I added 3 beads for some detail. It follows the same patterns as the rest of the floor boards I then tried wrapping my head around the rear floor to the sedans back panel. I decided to attach it from underneath. I channeled my car so I opted to not run the rear subframe crossmember. I decided to make a template as a filler panel from the bottom of the sedan rear panel and my new subframe support that is 1.5”X1.5” angle. This picture shows the panel fitted and cleco’ed in place Not much room under there behind the rear crossmember I ended my morning making a template for the driver side corner to seal off the bottom edge of the body and the floor/subframe structure. (Hard to tell what the pics are of) tight quarters under there. Hoped to get a lot more done today but life wouldn’t allow it. There’s always tomorrow Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
Thanks Mike and everyone following along who has chimed in. I’m feeling good how things are finally moving along Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
Snow storm this am 8” and counting. I decided to get up early do my chores and head into the garage. Had to section the gas tank mount over the rear crossmember. I didn’t want to raise the tank mount any higher, so that was the only option. On to the firewall ... and a whole crap load of items. Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
Been selling a lot on eBay and decided to spend some money on another tool for the garage. It’s a Baileigh Rotary shear and it was worth every penny. It’s nice cutting metal and not creating dust. Major upgrade !! Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
Spent a good portion of my day working on the updated firewall. The motor sits back in the firewall a fair amount, Without wanting to go with a cookie cutter style firewall that you can buy. I wanted to follow my initial plan and follow the contour of the motor. I had to remove the fuel pump stand and install a blockoff plate for some added room when I slid the body forward . I may order a Obrien Truckers vent kit or make a pcv valve setup in the future if needed. This took a boat load of time, but I’m happy with it so far . The hole I’m attempting to fill Laying out the new firewall for clearance of the back of the motor Firewall panel shaped up Template for the recessed firewall Contour panel of steel tacked in place Firewall scribed and cut to fit the contour of the firewall recess Firewall getting tacked in place Recess panels protruding the orig 29 firewall. It will be trimmed and welded when the body is off the car. Firewall tacked in place. Final welding will happen when the body is off. I need to add a few small slivers of metal on a few areas when the body is off. Also address the area around the pedals. They can wait, big part of the job is done. I’m very happy I’m over that hurdle. It was tough fabricating that piece in the car but I think it was the only way it could have been done. Also got the gas filler hole located and drilled. Grommet for the body is on order. For those who may go this route. The Mopar 68-69-70 GTX & Road Runner gas tank grommet is the size that fits the TANKS INC filler tube. It has the correct ID and OD for the body and the tube. I’m not thrilled of how the filler and cap protrude the way they do. I may recess it slightly That’s what I’ve got ... the list goes on. Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
Moving right along, kiddo! Looks good too- that inch sure had an interesting effect. Sent from my iPad using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
The Jalopy Journal
