I would like to put a Ford Explorer 8.8" rear end in my '39 Ford Pickup. Will I have to narrow it? What is the stock rear end width (wheel mounting face to wheel mounting face) for my '39? When I measured it, it seemed pretty close to 58". Is there a Wheel / Tire combo that will fit within the rear fenders better if the rear is narrowed? I l know a lot of people cut these rear ends down as it is relatively easy to do. Thanks, George
Hey 2 short axles and it goes from 60" to 57" did one for a falcon easy cut 3" out of the tube use a piece of 3"" angle and a couple of large radiator hose clamps to align it and tig it back together 2 passes if you put 30 degree bevel on the tube works great I have done several also have done the opposite for a 63'' rear end for a F100 PS the tubes are 3 1/4 "
I have done virtually the same thing as nailhead terry, except that the one I did was with a small bearing 9 inch. That was without a doubt the easiest way to narrow a rear end. The tip I wanted to add, was that after the tube is cut, it can be easily trued by hand by marking the ends with masking tape, and just filing the ends until you touch the edge of the tape. This way, you get the ends as true as if you had turned them on a lathe. Bob
Pipefitter's wrap-a-round gives you true straight marks to make your cut. Before you cut, use a straight piece of angle iron laid longways on the tube to scribe reference marks so everything lines back up where it's supposed to. Make your cuts and double check with a combination square across the cut ends of the tube in several places. File or grind your bevel on both cut ends. Use whatever size tig wire you're going to weld with to set your gap. Do what Terry said with the angle iron and two hose clamps on each side of the weld. Make sure your reference lines match up. Tack in three places and then weld it out going a couple inches on one side and jumping to the other until it's all welded out. Done.
I might also add, that the most difficult narrowing I have ever done, was to follow someone's advice and do the cut right at the ends. Without having the alignment rod and dummy bearings, it is a very difficult task to get the ends lined up properly. If a person is changing to the larger bearings, it has to be done that way, but if you aren't making any changes, it is a total pita. Bob
This might help 1990-92 ranger 8.8 56.5" 1993-09 58.5" 1991-03 explorer 59.5" almost all rangers 28 spline axles
Trick I learned while welding joints.......... Remember, hot goes to cold. Make your weld(maybe a couple inches or a little more) immediately roll the housing 180* so your weld is on the bottom . The heat will travel slowly UP the housing to the.....wait-for-it...."cold side"..... and minimize any pulling/warping. If you hot rod it and warp it to one side a good way to "un-warp" it is....buzz over the weld on the side you want the warp to pull to and put a wet rag on the opposite side. Sometimes you can actually SEE the pipe/housing move! 6sally6 PS If you already know this then....don't read it!
I learned that trick from a oldstyle body man. Used the same trick for shrinking stretched body panels. Bob
With all due respect to previous replies, the Explorer 8.8 should be good to go as-is. Sent from my SM-G965U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
treb11 is correct, an 8.8 from a Ford Explorer is the correct width. The Explorer 8.8 also has 31 spline axles with larger bearings and axle tube. Get the 31 spline ! The 8.8 has an approximate 2”center offset. Many had the Trac-Lok limited slip also, add a kevlar clutch kit, and you have a great combo. 1994 and earlier had drums, and 1995 up had disc. There is a vibration isolator monted to the center section on the Explorer, when removed, you have the perfect mount for your panhard bar. The only known weakness according to off roaders are the plug welds from axle tube to center section, which is easily remedied by welding the complete circumference. Some web searches will give you all the specifications and details needed.
‘32 with 8.8, 31 spline, stock Explorer width, Trac-Lok w/Kevlar clutches, drums, and welded tubes. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
And I have never gave more buck and quarter for a 8.8 with 31 spline axles and 373 or 410 gears some 342 gears I am not cheap am frugal !!
Most of them were never abused , meaning 99% of recycled axles will be good to use. I don’t thing the one I installed in a 46 Truck needed to be narrowed . It was within a small amount of being the same width . I don’t know what it was from , I suspect it was an Explorer . Don’t for get or you want a non HAMB friendly , there is an 8.8 IRS out there from a TBird , or Cougar . It drops out easily also .
8.8 are typically OD trans rear ends with lower gears. There are some in the low 3.00's and one with 2.78 or so but no new ring and pinions for those. Drums are 11" and now most are discs. Good luck.
third edition I have a 41 pu (ford) and I used an 8.8 out of 96 mustang was aperfect width most must sites can tell you what axels to use for 5 lug but if I remember it was 2 long ones just food for thought since your truck has the same frame Tom
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