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Technical Y block lifters.

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by 49' bomb!, Feb 25, 2019.

  1. 49' bomb!
    Joined: Nov 21, 2016
    Posts: 143

    49' bomb!

    Hi guys, got another project I'm working on. I need to replace the cam and lifters in my 272 y block. I know how to get to cam out using clothespins to hold the lifters up. But, how do you get the lifters out with the engine in the car?. I know you guys are pretty sharp out there somebody could help me out with this...
     
    chryslerfan55 likes this.
  2. 56premiere
    Joined: Mar 8, 2011
    Posts: 1,445

    56premiere
    Member
    from oregon

    Magnet Pull the lifters before pulling cam
     
  3. As far as I remember, you don't. The only way mushroom lifters come out is through the bottom without the crank in. Maybe someone with some kind of tool could get them out with just the pan off but I wouldn't be that lucky. :)
     
    dana barlow, 54vicky and egads like this.
  4. WiredSpider
    Joined: Dec 29, 2012
    Posts: 1,252

    WiredSpider
    Member

    As said above,The lifters only come out thru the bottom after you remove the cam
     
    OahuEli, dana barlow and egads like this.

  5. Yep, gotta pull the cam first, use the clothespin trick to keep the lifters up while you do this. You can get the lifters out with the crank/rods in place, but expect to spend some quality time under the motor fishing them out.
     
    Barrelnose pickup and egads like this.
  6. 1-SHOT
    Joined: Sep 23, 2014
    Posts: 2,700

    1-SHOT
    Member
    from Denton

    Years ago at the Ford Dealership I worked in they had a tool for removing and replacing the lifters. It would go thru the cam bore and grab the lifter and rotate it 90 degrees to R&R them.


    The tool to remove the lifters is simply a half round tray that fits in the cam bearings and is as long as the engine. The lifters are dropped into the tray and pulled out with a long handled magnet. The installation tool has a clip to hold the lifter body, a hinge at the end, and a handle long enough to reach the back of the engine. There is a rod on the handle that actuates the hinge. The lifter is put into the clip and the hinge turned so that the lifter lays against the handle. The tool in inserted through the cam bearings until it reaches the position you want, and the rod is pushed (or pulled?) to open the hinge and stand the lifter up. After the lifter is started in it's bore, another tool is inserted below the hinged one and pushes up on the lifter, so that the first tool can be pulled out. Then the lifter is pushed up in it's bore where it can be held by a spring clothespin. Probably a good idea to leave the tray in place through all of this, "just in case". You only have to repeat this 13 times, the front two lifters can be installed without the tool. I have used one of these once, I find it is quicker and easier to pull the engine, put it on a stand, turn it upside down, take off the pan, and change the lifters.
     
    OahuEli, ffr1222k, Baumi and 5 others like this.
  7. drtrcrV-8
    Joined: Jan 6, 2013
    Posts: 1,709

    drtrcrV-8
    Member

    1-SHOT : X2 on your last sentence!!!
     
  8. 49' bomb!
    Joined: Nov 21, 2016
    Posts: 143

    49' bomb!

    What a great reply; I knew someone would have a answer.
     
  9. miker98038
    Joined: Jan 24, 2011
    Posts: 1,166

    miker98038
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    FWIW, I think someone posted a picture of the factory tool over at yblocksforever not too long ago. Or a copy they’d built. Be worth a search as I’m sure they’re a little tough to find.
     
  10. jimmy six
    Joined: Mar 21, 2006
    Posts: 14,903

    jimmy six
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    By good lifters. It not a job you want to do twice. Contact Ted Eaton in Leona Tx, John Mummert in Escondido Ca or Tim McMaster in Fresno Ca. Along with what was said above these 3 know more about Y-Blocks than all the rest put together. The Y-Blocksforever website is one of the best for these engines.
     
    j3harleys, 49' bomb! and egads like this.
  11. 49' bomb!
    Joined: Nov 21, 2016
    Posts: 143

    49' bomb!

    hi guys! just an update on my cam&lifter install, (in car).
    unfortutainly, It did not work out! I tried making a "catch
    tray" out of plasic pipe, cut the full length of block. but,
    the lifters are TOO LONG, to drop out of the bore! so,
    it's time to pull the engine. which I knew I was going to
    have to do! I searched all over internet, there is no tool
    to remove/ intstall lifters! if some can post it, I would
    like to see it. also. I bought a cam kit, yes it has "foreign
    made lifters" as do most! I immeditaley saw a difference
    from o.e.m. , which are flat, on the back side. these new
    ones have a cone, or dome, or what ever you want to call
    it, is this going to cause me a problem, such as, lifter hitting
    block? i'am running just a stock lift cam. thoughts?
     
  12. Truck64
    Joined: Oct 18, 2015
    Posts: 5,325

    Truck64
    Member
    from Ioway

    Use good lifters, they are made of tool steel. Maybe you can get away with foreign made lifters. Maybe not. Do you feel lucky?
     
    j3harleys likes this.
  13. j3harleys
    Joined: May 12, 2010
    Posts: 912

    j3harleys
    Member

    LIke the others said " GOOD LIFTERS ". Get hold of one of guys that Jimmy Six says. I like John Mummert. I would never use foreign lifters AGAIN!!!
     
    egads and 49' bomb! like this.
  14. 49' bomb!
    Joined: Nov 21, 2016
    Posts: 143

    49' bomb!

    Hey guys! Still fighting with the old Y block!! Bought a new cam and lifters. I noticed that a couple of the pushrods are going up higher that the other ones? Anyone encounter this problem?
    also I'm having a terrible time trying to get the distributor to drop down into the block. Anybody else have this problem?
    I really appreciate you guys replying it really helps me out I'm not a young man anymore...
     
  15. jimmy six
    Joined: Mar 21, 2006
    Posts: 14,903

    jimmy six
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Go to the YBlocksforever site. Those guys know everything. The lifters could be taller and as long as the adjusters will allow for the proper lash you should be OK. Depending on the added length, the geometry maybe off but on a stock engine it probably would matter. What do the ends of the rockers look like where they make contact with the valve stems?
     
    OahuEli likes this.
  16. 49' bomb!
    Joined: Nov 21, 2016
    Posts: 143

    49' bomb!

     
  17. 49' bomb!
    Joined: Nov 21, 2016
    Posts: 143

    49' bomb!

    Thanks for reply. Haven't really looked at closely at them yet. But that's a good suggestion.. it only appears to be a couple of them. I guess my old cam had pretty worn lobes on it. So I didn't notice it.I really need to figure out what's going on with this distributor. it just won't seat down into the block properly.
     
  18. Check your rocker arms for wear from the shaft. Rebuild both shafts if you find any wear. Make sure the oil passage is clear through the head and block using a long pipe cleaner.
     
    OahuEli likes this.
  19. OLDSMAN
    Joined: Jul 20, 2006
    Posts: 2,422

    OLDSMAN
    BANNED

    When the engine is out of the vehicle on a engine stand turn the engine upside down then remove the camshaft
     
  20. Deuces
    Joined: Nov 3, 2009
    Posts: 23,882

    Deuces

    :confused::eek::mad::rolleyes:
     
  21. Bird man
    Joined: Dec 28, 2009
    Posts: 901

    Bird man
    Member
    from Milwaukee

    Almost make me want to go out & buy one...NOT.
     
  22. jimmy six
    Joined: Mar 21, 2006
    Posts: 14,903

    jimmy six
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    ^^^What no guts? Or just CS.....
     
  23. miker98038
    Joined: Jan 24, 2011
    Posts: 1,166

    miker98038
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    As I recall, when you pull the distributor it rotates slightly disengaging the gear. As the hex shaft from the oil pump comes out of the bottom of the distributor it tends to rotate back to its original position. So it doesn’t line up to go back into the distributor drive. I used to engage the gear, then “bump” the starter. Real short bump, preferably with a button you can just tap. And a buddy to do it. As the shaft hex lines up, the distributor drops down.

    This assumes the proper clip is installed, etc, and the shaft is still properly seated in the pump.

    If those lifters didn’t come from one of the sources named above, start over. Way too many bad lifters out there for y blocks, and as you’ve found out they’re not fun to change.
     
    49' bomb! likes this.
  24. 49' bomb!
    Joined: Nov 21, 2016
    Posts: 143

    49' bomb!

     
  25. 49' bomb!
    Joined: Nov 21, 2016
    Posts: 143

    49' bomb!

    Hi guys! Since you were all kind enough to reply. Here's an update on the distributor. I couldn't get it in from the top .so I took the oil pump down, and slid the hexagon shaft up from the bottom right into the distributor. Hopefully this could help you guys out if you ever have this problem..
     
    OahuEli likes this.
  26. OahuEli
    Joined: Dec 27, 2008
    Posts: 5,243

    OahuEli
    Member
    from Hawaii

    Oh Shit! Now your oil pump is out of time!...just kidding. :D
     
    Johnny Gee likes this.
  27. 49' bomb!
    Joined: Nov 21, 2016
    Posts: 143

    49' bomb!

     
  28. 49' bomb!
    Joined: Nov 21, 2016
    Posts: 143

    49' bomb!

    I'll tell you, the old Y block is fighting me to The bitter end.... Lol ..
     
  29. Atwater Mike
    Joined: May 31, 2002
    Posts: 11,624

    Atwater Mike
    Member

    Good thread...I encountered this 'rude awakening' in '59, when prepping my 292 for some Drag strip time. Meanwhile:
    A customer's 272 Ford ('56) came in on the hook...turned out the cam had broken in 4 pieces. Fished each one out with a 'lizard looper'! Teardown was just for diagnosis, but my 16 year old brain was 'armed' with the knowledge that this engine had mushroom tappets! Further consultation with our Motors Manual prompted an "AHA!" from 'moi'.
    Rebuilt engine was swapped.
     
    49' bomb! likes this.

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