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Technical Trash in paint, getting ready to slit my wrists

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Roothawg, Feb 23, 2019.

  1. Blue One
    Joined: Feb 6, 2010
    Posts: 11,459

    Blue One
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Alberta

    This is one reason why I love my HVLP turbine
    system.
    Clean dry and warm air, when I painted my RPU the only problems I had were caused by the learning curve :D

    At least I didn’t have equipment issues to deal with.
     
  2. BJR
    Joined: Mar 11, 2005
    Posts: 9,814

    BJR
    Member

    Replace the catalyst, spray some paint and report back. I bet your problem is gone. And don't slit your wrists...... Step back and have a beer.:)
     
    Last edited: Feb 24, 2019
    WB69 and jakesbackyard like this.
  3. I had this happen once....not with epoxy, but catalyzed base coat(DBU). The activator/catalyst was older than I thought. Sure made it chunky, like it had dirt mixed in.....
     
    Roothawg likes this.
  4. Mr48chev
    Joined: Dec 28, 2007
    Posts: 33,861

    Mr48chev
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    That was my first thought but that would just have fish eye and not the bumps.
    One of my buddies who was the painter in a dealership I worked in in the 70's had a door and fender he painted fisheye something terrible and when he asked me if I had sprayed any silicone (my work spaces were about 30 ft from his through a door. I said no but the boss's buddy who had a step van delivery rig was spraying the hingeson the door on his stepvan when I had walked out of the parking lot after parking a customer car i had just worked on. I never saw that van in the parking lot again after that.
    Since then I have seen a couple of paint jobs screwed up on rigs that the owner was always spraying Armor all on everything on the rig or at least it seemed to be everyting.
     
    jimgoetz likes this.
  5. Roothawg
    Joined: Mar 14, 2001
    Posts: 24,522

    Roothawg
    Member

    No Armor All. I don’t even buy it.
     
    s55mercury66 likes this.
  6. Dan Timberlake
    Joined: Apr 28, 2010
    Posts: 1,530

    Dan Timberlake
    Member

    Hi Roothawg,

    I don't know anything about paint.

    In this picture does the rubber air hose at the right lead to the paint gun?
    https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/attachments/2b1e1a93-7ca8-4d8b-adba-a22de5a42ca9-jpeg.4202344/

    This seems to suggest the pressure regulation should happen first.
    https://www.pacificaircompressors.com/arrowinline.htm
    That makes sense to me, for the reasons in post 54.
    Sometimes I'll partially close the ball valve at the beginning of air line to the extent the regulator is adjusted out nearly all the way with the air tool or blow gone running full blast. It is an effort to force most of the expansion and some cooling there, with resulting water fallout,, instead of after the regulator or in the tool. For an impact wrench etc that needs full pressure that won't work of course.
     
  7. Roothawg
    Joined: Mar 14, 2001
    Posts: 24,522

    Roothawg
    Member

    That's the output side. It is regulated. There are 5 drops with ball valves to drain condensation prior to the regulator and driers. There are actually a couple of water separators throughout the shop.
     
    BigChief likes this.
  8. WB69
    Joined: Dec 7, 2008
    Posts: 1,958

    WB69
    Member
    from Kansas

    This is the kind of advice I like! Agree on the catalyst, oh, and the beer.....
     
    Last edited: Feb 24, 2019
  9. Roothawg
    Joined: Mar 14, 2001
    Posts: 24,522

    Roothawg
    Member

    It’s turning off cold here again, so it may be a few days before I can try a different approach. I am going to buy some 2K primer anyway, I’ll clean the shop and try it again.
     
  10. flynbrian48
    Joined: Mar 10, 2008
    Posts: 8,220

    flynbrian48
    Member

    That’s what was going to ask too. Had that happen as well with one of the little brass screens on the pickup tube in a used gun I got to shoot primer. It looked clean, but spread stuff that looked just what you have.


    Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
    Moriarity likes this.
  11. spanners
    Joined: Feb 24, 2009
    Posts: 2,073

    spanners
    Member

    When you use wax 'n grease remover do you wipe off with a clean rag or just let the wax 'n grease remover evaporate? I sprayed a car years ago when working in a panel shop and had similar issues, turned out I was guilty of rushing to spray and just wiped over with wax 'n grease remover without wiping off with clean rag. The paint reacted with the wax & grease remover and I got to sand everything back and redo.
     
    1946caddy and King ford like this.
  12. oldiron 440
    Joined: Dec 12, 2018
    Posts: 3,299

    oldiron 440
    Member

    When was the last time you drained the compressor and how many drip legs do you have between the compressor and the paint hose?
    Last one, how much air line between the compressor and the paint hose?
     
  13. cavman
    Joined: Mar 23, 2005
    Posts: 669

    cavman
    Member

    Here's another thought from a long time painter.
    Do you use an exhaust fan while spraying? Does it vibrate at all? (paint build-up on blades) If so, any seams in the ceiling may hold dust and debris, and fall when the thing vibrates.

    Just something else to check.
     
  14. That looks like solvent pop to me. You are putting way to much paint on without proper flash time between coats. The reason you’re not seeing it on a Vertical panel is because you’re not over applying in fear of it running. Make sure you are spraying at the suggested air pressure and adjust your fluid tip to 1 1/2 turns in from wide open. Every paint line on the market is plenty good for doing what you are doing you just need to follow the instructions and practice on an old hood or fender first.


    Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
     
    jimgoetz likes this.
  15. And if you do slit your wrists, have someone else paint for you because the blood is going to drip causing more problems.


    Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
     
    Tim_with_a_T, alanp561 and Roothawg like this.
  16. gimpyshotrods
    Joined: May 20, 2009
    Posts: 23,263

    gimpyshotrods
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Can you see it from the driver's seat, at 75mph?
     
  17. Moisture in the air can ruin a paint job too.Check to see how humid it is before the next try.You can have too much moisture on cool days just like on hot sticky days.My do it at home painting is either done in late April,or the end of Sept. to control things a bit. As said before don't paint any place that ever has seen silicon /WD40 in the air.You can always buy ,and add fisheye eliminator to the paint to off set silicon.
     
  18. Ebbsspeed
    Joined: Nov 11, 2005
    Posts: 6,250

    Ebbsspeed
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    The smart ass in me is going to say that nothing short of completely refinishing will offset the effects of silicon contamination in a paint job. Silicone, yes. Silicon, no.
     
  19. Mahty
    Joined: Nov 20, 2016
    Posts: 51

    Mahty

    Hard to say with pictures what happened. I had to be broken from using a tack coat on modern paints. It’s was great for enamel back in the day. It’s caused a few similar problems for me. That’s my paint reps analysis. I hope you figure it out.
     
  20. rushaved
    Joined: Jul 15, 2012
    Posts: 3

    rushaved
    Member
    from midwest

    That looks uniform enough to be the product of the wrong or bad reducer or catalyst. I’ve had a reactive reducer do that to me when used in the wrong application. Obviously make sure you’re using a lint free disposable wiper with wax and grease remover, new tack cloth, then spray. Make sure you’re not using any silicone or interior dressings in the area. Not even one of those California Dusters in the area. Check your products, expiration dates, and scan your MSDS sheets to make sure that everything you’re using is compatible.


    Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
     
  21. Roothawg
    Joined: Mar 14, 2001
    Posts: 24,522

    Roothawg
    Member

    I have a few things I am going to try. Probably when it warms up a bit.

    The paint booth is getting a thorough scrubbing, top to bottom. Blowing off lights, fan blades etc. It may even get a fresh coat of paint. Power wash the floors.

    I am going to put on 2 tack coats (light) on a new clean piece to see if it might be solvent pop. Even though I have never had this issue with my technique previously.

    I am going to buy a different brand primer and test it out, see if the problem is environmental or product based.

    Long term goal is a new compressor and air lines. I have had this compressor for 25 years. I have to wonder how bad the rings leak internally. I'll move it up to the house and use it to air up tires. It served it's purpose. Probably painted 20 cars.

    Remove the zinc coated water line I have installed for air and buy proper air line.

    We will see if any of this helps. If not. I'll drag my crap to Earl Scheib's place and let him do it.
     
    loudbang likes this.
  22. jimgoetz
    Joined: Sep 6, 2013
    Posts: 517

    jimgoetz
    Member

    Just a suggestion but you might want to try one fix and a spray out at a time starting with the easiest and cheapest one first. Otherwise you might never know for sure what the real cause was. In the latest picture you posted it looks to me like it could just be solvent pop.
     
    Roothawg likes this.
  23. Gerrys
    Joined: May 1, 2009
    Posts: 327

    Gerrys
    Member

    Ist it an oil lubricated compressor? If so you may have a problem with the compressor.
     
    Roothawg likes this.
  24. This. Have you figured out how old the hardener is yet? That is step one.
     
    tb33anda3rd and RMR&C like this.
  25. RDR
    Joined: May 30, 2009
    Posts: 1,480

    RDR
    Member

    What part are you painting now that you're having trouble with? Had an issue with fenders on a '46 Ford. Could not get away from fisheyes, no matter what the bare metal was washed down with..It seemed to be in the metal....Come to find out the radiator had blown antifreeze all under the hood, had been on the original paint and sanded into the metal when the paint got stripped..Long story short, the answer was to shoot a waterbase primer sealer and VOILA...back to regular painting again..Just sayin'
    Good Luck, Roothawg !
     
    loudbang likes this.
  26. Roothawg
    Joined: Mar 14, 2001
    Posts: 24,522

    Roothawg
    Member

    Not yet. It's 19 degrees today, so the shop is locked up tighter than a drum.
     
  27. lippy
    Joined: Sep 27, 2006
    Posts: 6,825

    lippy
    Member
    from Ks

    I would say get one of your friends who uses that product all the time to come over and show you their method of application. Looks like trash and too thick of a mix. JMO Lippy
     
  28. alchemy
    Joined: Sep 27, 2002
    Posts: 20,404

    alchemy
    Member

    Many years ago when I worked in a bodyshop for a summer, the owner told me we needed to wipe the cars down with cleaner BEFORE we did any grinding for the same reason RDR found. Who knows what contaminants are going to be sanded deeper into the finish? Easier to wipe it off a smooth surface than a whole bunch of sanding scratches.
     
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  29. Terrible80
    Joined: Oct 1, 2010
    Posts: 785

    Terrible80
    Member

    What's that second unit on the airline, looks like a lubricator?
     
  30. Tri-Power
    Joined: Jun 23, 2008
    Posts: 153

    Tri-Power
    Member
    from Memphis

    I'm thinking rust from the iron air piping, too.
     

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