Hot Rods Model A body on ‘32 chassis WITH FENDERS- Help!

Leave it alone and keep moving forward.

 

Do you know a brand called American Powertrain?


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When it comes to Overdrive stick shift's, personally I would Not go 5 speed in your car. Nothing looks more at home and correct in a Model A Roadster than a standard Old School Hurst shifter. G.M. did us a favor a lot of Car Guys over look. There is a factory gear box that looks like any G.M. 4 speed and you can uses a Hurst 4 speed shifter that is a 3 + 1 overdrive. They were used in Light Trucks and not hard to find of expensive. They shift just like any Camaro 4 speed with 3rd gear being 1 to 1 or direct drive and 4th gear position being Overdrive. If your Roadster were mine that would be my #1 choice, not a T-5.

 

Probably stronger too...

 

Any suggestions on where to buy? What brand? Used or new?


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There's some info here https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/np-833-identification-help.564881/#post-6274355

 

Brand is built for G.M. You can shop by asking for an 833 Truck tranny. You seldom see them at Swap Meet's. Doubt you can buy one through Chevy new. If you have a local Trans Shop you deal with talk to them about there Core supplier, ya just gotta shop around. I'll post up a photo latter of one sitting next to standard 4 speed. If I remember correct they even have 833 on the case, I know my Chrysler ones do and maybe even the one for Ford does, just can't remember that for sure.

 

These G.M. 833's are pretty easy to spot. They use a Chrysler style spedo drive. Also notice the ribs on the bottom of the case. This one happens to be aluminum, they do come in Cast iron as well. The reverse lever is in the lower edge of the case not in the tailshaft like T-10.
Well, I do have a couple other photos but at this time they don't seem to want to load here.

 

There is one problem with 3+1 transmissions. When you run in OD your cluster gear is loaded all the time. After rebuilding the transmission twice because the needle bearings could not take the load I pulled it and went back to the 4 sp.

 

Have a friend who ran a Borg Warner T10 in his rod since around 1970. Around 2000 he maited the overdrive tail shaft from a BW three speed to the four speed. It's almost traditional and at the time was the poor man's five speed.

Phil

 

I'd be interested in under what conditions you were using that Trans. These were in Trucks from 81-87 behind both Diesel and Gas motors. When finding them on line they commonly have over 100K on them and still in usable shape. Also rebuilding it twice speaks it's own language. Was it in your 28oo lb Avitar? Another thing, the Mopar 833 runs 90-120 gear oil. G.M. wants Mercon-Dexron. You put 90 weight in the G.M. box and no doubt you'll take out some bearings.

 

Wow, just found this thread this afternoon, just finished reading the whole thing. Wish I would've found it sooner. Cool car!

 

It came stock in my '81 Bronco 351 2 barrel. The first time the cluster bearings failed I put in a 4sp toploader. Since I was driving 50K a year at that time so mileage was important. I had F&N Trans rebuild it and put it back in. Bad idea. Within a year cluster bearings were gone again. Back in went the 4 sp and that was the end of my 3+1 story. By the way if I remember correctly Ford only used them for 3 years. Apparently Ford didn't think much of the either.

 

Ahh, the Ford 3+1 though called an 833 is not the same trans as the G.M. or Mopar at all. About all they have in common is the 3 speed and overdrive manual part. Yes, in stock form and just overhauled you can have a return problem. There are a few ways to improve on the known bearing failure issue with the Ford unit. If just having new bearings installed in Old output shaft bearing life will be extremely short. Sounds like you chose a shop that didn't get the memo.

 

I don't want to hijack this thread but this happened 30 years ago. If you run a loaded cluster gear for long periods of time you are going to have problems. If you want OD put in a T5 and be done with it.

 

90-120 gear oil? Where did you get that info from? I've never heard of that grade of gear oil. 85W-140, or 80w-140 maybe, not 90-120.

 

For a mild engine run a T-5 if you can afford it run a TKO, you can put an old style shifter, unless they crawl under the car, no one will know the difference.

 

Ok-lots of decisions to make. The car is completely disassembled. Frame is being blasted. We’re trying to keep as many components and parts original as possible, but seeing the parts off the car really makes it obvious that this will NOT be a show car! We’re debating the addition of the aftermarket X member now because so much is designed around the original shop-built cross members and suspension parts (tranny, drive shaft, exhaust, etc.). Score one for the “keep it original” crowd...the builder thinks everything looks ok even though the welds are not pretty and some of the methods used in the suspension and cross members are sketchy. He think he can leave it original but tweak it to make it ride better. Good news is the motor looks really fresh, like there are hardly any miles on it. It must have been recently gone over before my Dad bought the car. The builder thinks gaskets and new paint is all it needs. I need to decide what to do about fuel delivery and general dress up of the engine. Dual quads or single four barrel? How much fussing does dual quads take? I’d like to dress up engine a little with matching finned valve covers and air cleaner. Here are some pics of some of the parts.



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Most dual quads run on the rear carb until you switch the pitch. A single 4bl will get you operating and in the mean time look/build something cool.

 

No harm in fabbing up a support system in the center as you and the fella your working with see fit. It has to support and strengthen...custom fabbed is Traditional too...

That spring perch I have heard some say that works but could that be trimmed off and proper perches installed and a wider front spring used. Are the front bones split?......(I just noticed they are...)

Are you blasting or cleaning stuff down and painting things up a bit...some things were chrome as well I recall...there is ways of bringing back chrome at least perhaps to a presentable state possibly...

Get it nice n shiny like Dad's pic and I guarantee you will be more than happy...drivers are great Hotrods...mine is exactly that...

Riff...Great Stuff...

 

Stogy-everything was gloss black except chrome parts which included valve covers, generator, helmet-style air cleaner cover, slot wheels, nerf bars, and windshield frame. Speaking of chrome, I’ve tried to polish the chrome wheels and windshield frame, and they shined up nice, but they are pitted pretty badly. What is the appropriate plan for this? Does re-chroming fill in the pits?


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No, it will not fill in rust pits! Your best bet is to keep them polished and waxed to prevent the rust resurfacing.

 

How to fix the pits in the chrome

Step one: polish it till your arms fall off
Step two: stand up and admire your work but be a little bummed about the pits
Step three: take three steps backwards, what fucking pits?

 

So is pitted chrome a thing? Like part of some vintage look? If so, this is going to be a cool car. If not, I’m screwed!


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I'd park right beside your A at the cruise night NO problems...

 

Damn-I was afraid you were gonna say that Tim.


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maybe bad welds and pitted chrome will make a come-back!


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Do you know you can do what Tim and Dick say and get it all together and smile and drive...and if it doesn't speak your tune you could do those as little side projects by and by...

Subtle understated chrome can be just the cats meow...just has to have some cool striping pulled here and there...

 

They never went out of style here......

Go back and have a peak at @Cactus's BB

He renewed a few things but really stuck to soul...theres a few here that have that passion...it wears its scars very well...

 

@RiffRaffRoadster...
Inspiration interlude



...This is the period Riff...
And look the Painted A isn't finished either but man does it punch my taste buds...

Either of these two A's could be your ride...I'm thinking the closer painted one...yeah that look is the money...

Just to clarify the other A of the two Ì'm refering too would be the primered one furthest ahead to the left...

I know these aren't the same year or your ride but that is pretty era specific...like 64-5ish and overall both A's sit and share your rides Attributes and yes we know you have a Deuce Frame but the differences at a glance are subtle...

One of the things I will do till I die is appreciate and be inspired to this history such as this...it talks without words...

This pic appears in the link below...

https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/1940s-period-correct-hot-rods.422177/

Credit to Photographer, Owner

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