Let's see some sheet metal shaping

My junk.. took a 28 special coupe body in part ex for the work on my buddies T .

body looked pretty rough but turned out not so bad oce the moss was pressure washed off it .. ( never let a first impression taint you) Im just having a bit of fun with this, not being to fussy, just trying to get it done ..

Currently making this into a proper coupe.. if I can say such a thing? fabbing the rear roof section and other bits .. but keeping the repairs to the bare minimum and trying to blend them in.. BUT this is on hold for now as tied up with other stuff .. the usual story.. But at least on a car the size of an A coupe its not so easy to loose track unlike the 40 Mercury basket case I messed with.. Big cars with big issues need all your attention and no side tracking.. Small uncomplicated cars are more forgiving

 

It looks too big for jewelry work, unless it’s used for melting material for casting.


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On the TinManTech site they have longer torch heads in two different sizes to address heat issues. I've heard that Kent White also uses a bucket of water to cool the torch off when the need arises.

One of my local Jewelers does have this exact torch, and he uses propane as it is much cleaner for jewelry work. He's had it for 42 years, still using it today. For Propane, I believe there are different tips specific for that gas.

I believe they have smaller tips to get the flame size down even smaller for fine jewelry work. This is the only torch the jeweler mentioned above uses.​

 

Thanks..
Im gonna have to try it..
Do u know if theres smaller hoses...
The regular hoses are too bulky... The jeweler kits seems very practical and i almost bought a set to try on 18ga

 

Check this link, has the ultra lightweight hose listed also, comes with adapter fittings.

http://www.tinmantech.com/products/welding/meco-torch-accessories/

 

Ref the oxy torch thing. It really doesnt matter what torch you use, you regulate the temperature by choice of nozzle and gas pressures .

Ive used a BOC Saphire torch for years, they are not so heavy so as to be a chore but they are very well balanced like all good hand tools .

I prefer Oxy welding for sheet metal as its more forgiving than tig in my opinion. HAZ with oxy ned not be excessive, if it is its usually down to operator error . On cheap work and modern junk I mig everything cheapest option. and since cheap folk dont want to pay for good work its MIG to the rescue, not that you cant turn out a decent job with the mig.. its just a different technique and the assistance of a grinder ..

I prefer the controllability of oxy,, since there is no fancy foot pedals its just a case of lift of and go back in when things get hot..

Tig is a nice medium and sure you can go tiny like a 10mm HAZ but you need to be a decent dancer or at least have good hand to foot co ordination.. I prefer tig for bench work where you can sit down get the weight off and control everything thats going on .. Some of the stuff I work on is crap, its usually past rusty often pitted and usually past it . Despite cutting everything away, gauranteed with the tig it will pick up on a spot of rust or some embeded blast medium or just a bad edge prep.. ( gap) Thats all taken care of with OXY its a lot less bother .. Its also a myth regards distortion with the torch. sure you get a little but its easy sorted with a bit of planishing along the weld bead and HAZ area ..

 

AS IF lol.. there your buddy for the duration and then, strangely, they disappear when the jobs done ..
I share your pain with the VW. I done a camper for myself .. over a period of 8 years ..lol its the reverse engineering thats the problem with some of the panel work.. you need to undo a heck of a lot more than your repairing.. Punters never see the background work, just the shiny new bit, seamlessly welded in and finished, They sometimes tell you how to do it as well, which is nice ..lol.. They never understand why its cost 5 times more than the figure they had in there head .. I have the greatest respect for people who do this kind of work professionally, Its a great skill andso so satisfying until there is a customer on the other end lol..

 

roof work on the special coupe warts and all still got to get around to cutting out the rear window and making the aperture

 

Redoxide that's nice work there. Also nice to see someone else that takes "ugly" photos. With what I've been doing lately on the kombi, that kind of shaping just looks like fun to me.

 

Great skills there Redoxide,a credit to ya,

 

Been a long time since I’ve been on the forum. Figured I would post on something I’ve have been working on. Hand built 4 door FJ40


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Here is a quick picture of the 4 door section


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Here is the door sections after I added the sheet metal on the back side to reinforce the door section like the factory.


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that 'whoosh' sound you just heard was a lot of us kind of gasping!! double wow!!!

 

X2 that’s incredible!!!!! Hobo Jim

 

Beautiful work, just curious did you form those doors with a bead roller?

 

I subscribed to this thread to give me incentive. I might have to unsubscribe, you guys are just too good!

 

No, I made a die and use my pullmax to make all the shapes.


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Thank You


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I can certainly relate, I started collecting parts to put together a 28/29 Coupe last year.
I have most of the parts but there are plenty I need to fabricate, including patch panels for the upper and lower quarter panels, and all the roof panels.

 

View attachment 4152850 I have started shaping four piece hoods to suit Model A and 32 Fords, using tipping dies and flat dies for the beltlines and seams. I made up this one to suit a 29 Briggs body last year.

 

32 Ford Test version next to original.

 

Tapered swage line.

 

Had a slight distraction yesterday, a couple hood sides for a 37 Ford showed up. The owner wanted to remove the side "grille", and add a tapered recess pan with clamshell louvers. Here's what we started with...



Some cutoff wheel action later....



In an attempt to keep as much metal on the ends as possible, we opted to flatten the sad remains of the horizontal fins. This involved some shrinking via the heating tip in the dent puller..






Looks like someone has spilled bondo all over this panel. Funny the inside didn't look all that mangled to warrant the amount we found.. Must be a TV car..

The shrinking efforts flattened out the ends fairly well...






I filled in the previous trim holes with 18 Ga plugs and TIG fusion while the owner worked away at removing the bondo so we could see what we had to work with...









Next, we had to fold a flange in the front and extend the factory bead around the opening down the front where we had flattened the panel. Some of the existing bead profiles had seen better days in the past 80 plus years, so I checked a set of joggle dies I had made for drip rail as it looked close...





New flange folded at the front, bead added using the Lennox, original beads touched up ...







Tapered pan fabricated.....



Louver layout





Welded in place..



He is having some art deco style trim pieces made to accent the louvers down the center, topped by 62 Impala fender trim. We didn't have those, so here it is with alternate SS fuel line for your viewing pleasure...

 

Very nice MP&C. Did you hand make the louvers or use the Pullmax?


Instagram: @39_deluxe

 

Very nice work! I like the way you did the louvers.

 

Hand hammered, punch and die

 

Great stuff!!

 

Very cool, I am most intrigued by the cut off tool, it looks very long and home made.

 

extended length cutoff tool. Helps to keep it visually parallel with the panel edge, and thus perpendicular cut. Same one I used in Aloris tool holder for grinding drill bits into counterbores as shown in my 55 wagon thread.