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Features Who's Building a T?

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Slimegreeeeeen, Nov 19, 2011.

  1. camcrusher
    Joined: Aug 11, 2013
    Posts: 253

    camcrusher
    Member
    from Candor, NY

  2. Woodsie
    Joined: Oct 22, 2013
    Posts: 42

    Woodsie
    Member

    Thanks very much I appreciate that.trying to get it done but as all you prob know 2 step forward 3 steps back hahaha
     
    loudbang likes this.
  3. Labhis
    Joined: Jun 25, 2016
    Posts: 43

    Labhis

    fiftyv8 likes this.
  4. Blue One
    Joined: Feb 6, 2010
    Posts: 11,458

    Blue One
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Alberta

    I fabricated those stands myself. I drew them out and cut them out of 3/16” steel plate.
    12” high, they’re really handy.
     
    loudbang, GuyW, Labhis and 1 other person like this.
  5. fiftyv8
    Joined: Mar 11, 2007
    Posts: 5,394

    fiftyv8
    Member
    from CO & WA

    They look stackable as well...
     
    loudbang likes this.
  6. Blue One
    Joined: Feb 6, 2010
    Posts: 11,458

    Blue One
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Alberta

    Yes they are
     
    loudbang likes this.
  7. goldmountain
    Joined: Jun 12, 2016
    Posts: 4,437

    goldmountain

    Cleaning out some of my junk today and came across this courtesy card from the Gov'nors car club which is long gone. The Gov'nors project car was a similar chopped T which was seared into my brain when I was a kid. The car in the picture is the Gordon Sully car from Portland. Scan-190102-0001.jpg
     
    Shadow Creek, Woodsie, brEad and 3 others like this.
  8. VA HAMB
    Joined: Jun 14, 2006
    Posts: 1,377

    VA HAMB
    Member

    Anyone know where I can get this rubber seal for my rear window? Not the same as original. This actually seals around the edge of the body.

    IMG_1298.JPG
     
  9. chessterd5
    Joined: May 26, 2013
    Posts: 902

    chessterd5
    Member
    from u.s.a.

    There are a couple different styles. Some are like a " T" lip that folds in and locks on itself after you install the glass. The other uses a rubber cord that is threaded into a groove. We used both on military vehicles. Any auto glass place should know what you're talking about. Good luck .
     
  10. bobbytnm
    Joined: Dec 16, 2008
    Posts: 1,664

    bobbytnm
    Member

    loudbang and 26 T Ford RPU like this.
  11. frdsuperduty
    Joined: Nov 18, 2006
    Posts: 175

    frdsuperduty
    Member
    from Lewes De

    Here’s mine.For sale at Classic Auto Mall.Price reduction next week. 20180725_163142_resized.jpg


    Sent from my iPad using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
  12. Stock Racer
    Joined: Feb 28, 2010
    Posts: 1,069

    Stock Racer
    Member

    Hauled her off to the media blaster today. IMG_0316.jpg
     
  13. I thought it might be good to do an update on a problem I had not mentioned with the headlights on 26 COOP, so here goes:

    I had not driven the car at night on dark roads before leaving for the Salt back in August. After picking up my buddy, Jim Siler, in Ohio, I set the goal for being in Wyoming on the third day out. That resulted in a really long day, in which I drove 834 miles from Knoxville, IL to Cheyenne, WY. I reported that in my daily posting, but did not mention the night-driving problem we experienced.

    The headlights are 1934 Chevrolet Master units and use the 3-pin headlight bulb mounting with 13007-12 bulbs.
    incandescent.jpg
    But I was not comfortable going with the old style bulbs and assumed I would get better vision by using H4 halogen bulbs in aftermarket reflectors.
    H4.jpg

    So I abandoned the original and bought the aftermarket from Chevs of the 40s. BIG MISTAKE!

    We reached the Wyoming border just about dark. Driving 26 COOP at night was like driving a car with macular degeneration. I could see the signs on either side of the road, but only the lines on the pavement straight ahead. SCAREY! To make things worse, we had to drive to Cheyenne to find a motel with a room available, about 50 miles, and the roads were under construction with no lines!!!!! I could only follow the taillights of vehicles ahead in order to stay on the road.

    My analysis: the H4 halogen bulbs have a cover over the forward end of the bulb and (I believe) the reflectors are incorrect for the bulbs and the bulbs are not positioned at the focal point for the parabolic reflector to shine the light rays forward and parallel. This results in a large blind spot forward and center and all the light going to an outside ring of light. Furthermore, the '34 lens was designed to refract the light for a correct horizontal fan pattern, which the H4 and reflector are incapable of doing.

    So recently, I sent some parts to Custom Chrome Plating (40 COOP bumperettes I was making out of stainless to replace those which were damaged by Bonneville salt), so I sent the original reflectors to be chrome plated instead of trusting the silver plating.

    Long story short, I have installed the original reflectors with the 12V replacement bulbs. Without the lens in placed, the light pattern (low beam) is a small round circle at the center. With the lens in place, the pattern is a horizontal fan, just as the engineers in 1934 intended it to be. I am no longer afraid to drive 26 COOP at night.

    Resized_20190128_124700_8891.jpeg
     
    jimgoetz, AndersF, loudbang and 7 others like this.
  14. @Irishjr, thanks for that update. It sounds like a reasonable assumption that the newer bulbs and reflectors would be better.
     
    loudbang likes this.
  15. So I also thought. Tonight I aimed the lights and took this picture:
    Aimed.jpg

    However, I am not impressed with the high beam (too diffused) but the improvement on the low beam is impressive and would have served me well even on the roads under construction on the way to Cheyenne.
     
    Last edited: Jan 29, 2019
  16. Blue One
    Joined: Feb 6, 2010
    Posts: 11,458

    Blue One
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Alberta

    For the lights in my OTB guide 682c repros on my RPU I decided to install Sylvania silverstar halogen sealed beams.

    Easy to replace if one breaks and I think they should work well.

    I drove many miles in cars and trucks over the years with halogen sealed beam headlights.
     
    Last edited: Jan 28, 2019
    AndersF, brEad and loudbang like this.
  17. I have original 682c headlights on 33 COOP and that is a different situation. Sealed beam headlights are well engineered to place the light source at the focal point and refract the beam through the lens to provide a specific light pattern on the pavement....and they make millions of them that do so identically.

    DSC02038.JPG

    The H4 halogen bulbs for the non-sealed-beam headlights are designed to fit in the OEM headlight pods on modern cars which were specifically engineered to provide a specific light pattern on the pavement....and they make millions of them that do so identically.

    Unfortunately, the hot rod repro aftermarket adapts the H4 halogen bulbs to fit headlight assemblies (reflectors and lenses) that were designed in the 1920s and 1930s under different circumstances (non-shrouded bulbs) and they make perhaps a couple hundred of them to fit various reflector/lens configurations AND THEY DON'T WORK!!!

    I could have used 682c's on 26 COOP, but I really liked the look of the earlier headlights.

    Picture1.jpg

    My main purpose of posting this discussion was to warn fellow rodders about the problem and provide a (what I hope is) a better solution.
     
    Last edited: Feb 19, 2019
  18. MMM1693
    Joined: Feb 8, 2009
    Posts: 1,146

    MMM1693
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Irishjr, great job on the headlight research and thank you for sharing the info. I run the Guide 682c and sealed beam bulbs on my 26T coupe and they seem fine. But I must say the older I get I could mount a search light on the roof and still want more. Again nice research and thanks for sharing.
    Dan
     
  19. Stock Racer
    Joined: Feb 28, 2010
    Posts: 1,069

    Stock Racer
    Member

    She got a bath and she's back...

    IMG_0356.jpg
     
    Last edited: Feb 1, 2019
  20. Anderson
    Joined: Jan 27, 2003
    Posts: 7,155

    Anderson
    Member

    Mosytly doing final welding on the frame and parts lately. Got the pedal assembly hung a while ago.
    IMG_1494.jpg IMG_1864.JPG IMG_1317.jpg
     
  21. emil
    Joined: Jun 24, 2008
    Posts: 155

    emil
    Member
    from sweden

    IMG_0440.JPG

    I’m building a flathead powered lil thing.
    Buttoning up the last stuff now so should be driving by spring.


    Skickat från min iPhone med H.A.M.B.
     
  22. Stock Racer
    Joined: Feb 28, 2010
    Posts: 1,069

    Stock Racer
    Member

    Set the body on the frame to start planing the channel/floor. IMG_0525.jpg IMG_0522.jpg
     
    camcrusher, chessterd5, brEad and 7 others like this.
  23. A Boner
    Joined: Dec 25, 2004
    Posts: 7,411

    A Boner
    Member

    Skip the channel Bud, looks great as is.
     
    brEad, Squablow, Stock Racer and 5 others like this.
  24. flatheadgary
    Joined: Jul 17, 2007
    Posts: 1,012

    flatheadgary
    Member
    from boron,ca

  25. Commodoreswab
    Joined: Feb 12, 2011
    Posts: 337

    Commodoreswab
    Member
    from West TN

    Working on a T here but working with what has been discarded, i.e. everything T era. 1.jpg
     

    Attached Files:

  26. The Sherman Super Fire head was discarded?
     
  27. Stock Racer
    Joined: Feb 28, 2010
    Posts: 1,069

    Stock Racer
    Member

    Been thinking about it. Sure would make life easier! Radiator height is gonna dictate how I move forward.
     
  28. earlymopar
    Joined: Feb 26, 2007
    Posts: 1,608

    earlymopar
    Member

    I noticed the "A" in the front bar and thought it looks like the Ken Austin T. Also shown here:
    - EM
    upload_2019-2-18_6-21-16.png

    upload_2019-2-18_6-22-28.png

    Cleaning out some of my junk today and came across this courtesy card from the Gov'nors car club which is long gone. The Gov'nors project car was a similar chopped T which was seared into my brain when I was a kid. The car in the picture is the Gordon Sully car from Portland. [​IMG]

    goldmountain, Jan 2, 2019 !Report!
     
    brEad, Anderson, AndersF and 2 others like this.
  29. Commodoreswab
    Joined: Feb 12, 2011
    Posts: 337

    Commodoreswab
    Member
    from West TN

    No, and neither was the chassis. Although I doubt there are many here using a block that it would fit and considering the engine that it would fit would be one discarded I will lump it as something that would be "discarded" In truth it was one of the parts I worked to source along with the radiator and lights.
     
    loudbang likes this.
  30. goldmountain
    Joined: Jun 12, 2016
    Posts: 4,437

    goldmountain

    It's the same car. I knew that it was the Ken Austin car from a story written about it in Rod Action about how it ended up in Alaska but thought that I should attribute it to Sully since he was the owner when it appeared in Hot Rod and also Car Craft

    Sent from my SM-T350 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
    metal man and loudbang like this.

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