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Projects Another Deuce Rdstr project.

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by Baron, Feb 5, 2019.

  1. That’s a great start! Very nice.
     
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  2. Baron
    Joined: Aug 13, 2004
    Posts: 3,636

    Baron
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    For months I went back and forth on what I was going to run for a motor. Early Olds or Caddy motor would have been nice. Small block Ford would have been nice. Then I saw this green 3W coupe at Ty-Rods. I had seen the car numerous shows before, but never heard it run, and never saw what was under the hood. But at Ty-Rods, the hood was open, and there was a 471 blown small block Chevy. Instantly brought me back to 1978 when building my first Deuce. Many of the parts ( and a lot of advice) came from Chick Brignolo (RIP) and he had 471 blown small block under the solid hood sides of his chopped full-fendered 3W. Killer car( can't find the picture of his car . And last was this other 3W that has been around for years( It's owner passed away not long after these pics were taken). So, needless to say, another "small block Chevy" it is. It's a 1962 327 that I have saved for a future project, and this seems like the perfect home. 471 blowers and manifolds are scarce as hen's teeth today, so once again I posted an ad in the HAMB wanted section, and in less than a week I had a reply and made the deal. So, the Rdstr will be powered by a blown small block, solid lifter Chevy, with a Muncie 4spd and 4.10 gears. And the best part is that it will all hidden under the 25 louver hood. 21616220_341681502961872_6413611934953614552_n.jpg View attachment 4187639 2016-06-13 18.22.29.jpg 327 Blower motor a.jpg
     
  3. loudbang
    Joined: Jul 23, 2013
    Posts: 40,274

    loudbang
    Member

    DAM, KILLER choice for the engine, 4 speed, and gears. And I'm a diehard ford fan. :)
    It should scoot along quite nicely.
     
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  4. Baron
    Joined: Aug 13, 2004
    Posts: 3,636

    Baron
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    This all worked well. (note the Turbo 350 was just for mock up purposes). Able to tie the wishbone mount to the Deuce Frame Co center cross member. Always liked the looks of the 36 wishbones, and will work perfect with the Model A rear spring/spacing. Trans crossmember  2 a x.jpg Trans crossmember  2  b.jpg 20190209_171552.jpg
     
  5. Baron
    Joined: Aug 13, 2004
    Posts: 3,636

    Baron
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Along with the cowl vent this hump for the stock windshield will also have to go. Fortunately for me, a good friend of mine, Jay Herbster, operates his restoration shop right next door to me. Jay is one of those guys that does amazing metal work and did 95% of the following modifications. I showed him pictures of the Doane Spencer Rdstr and told him I'd love to do the same to my cowl. "No problem" was his reply, so I'll post some pics of the transformation in the next few posts. To watch and help him with this project was great. Talented young man ,to say the least. 2017-01-07 15.31.47.jpg 20180322_161325x.jpg 20180323_163915 x.jpg
     
  6. Baron
    Joined: Aug 13, 2004
    Posts: 3,636

    Baron
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Lot of compound curves in this panel that are crucial to retaining the stock cowl lines and having it fit the Duval windshield perfectly. 20180324_144808x.jpg 20180328_123357 x.jpg 20180328_142920x.jpg
     
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  7. 32fenderless
    Joined: Jun 7, 2007
    Posts: 350

    32fenderless
    Member

    Glad to see my 471 went to a great home! Can’t wait for more progress pics.


    Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
     
  8. Baron
    Joined: Aug 13, 2004
    Posts: 3,636

    Baron
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    And thank you again Jason. Looking forward to hearing the new motor run in the next few months. Stay tuned. :)
     
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  9. Baron
    Joined: Aug 13, 2004
    Posts: 3,636

    Baron
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Once Jay got the panel in shape, he fusion welded it to the cowl. In order to get a nice dash transition into the doors, he cut the door tops and made the new tops so the dash line would flow into the doors. 20180414_104843.jpg 20180426_132642 x.jpg 20180426_152623.jpg 20180428_111555 x.jpg
     
  10. Baron
    Joined: Aug 13, 2004
    Posts: 3,636

    Baron
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Here is the corner piece being installed. There is also an inner piece that goes in toward the dash. Also note the inner pieces that continue the door jam up under the new dash and door to eliminate the open gap. Once his finished pick and filing the little imperfections, he leaded the top of the doors and dash. From here on in I just needed to give it a tight skim of filler and drill the rest of the mounting holes for the windshield. Cowl 5 14 18 c x.jpg Cowl 5 14 18 g x.jpg 20180516_115841x.jpg Jay leading drivers door 5 30 18 b.jpg Cowl 8 11 18 b.jpg
     
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  11. loudbang
    Joined: Jul 23, 2013
    Posts: 40,274

    loudbang
    Member

    Man he does nice work. AND is still using lead :)
     
  12. Baron
    Joined: Aug 13, 2004
    Posts: 3,636

    Baron
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    A ton of work and a lot of hours, but well worth the effort. This will be the last Deuce Rdstr I build for myself, so it might as well build it exactly the way I have thought about for the last 30 years. Cowl 8 11 18 d.jpg Deuce Rdstr 8 6 18 c x.jpg Rdstr cowl  9 28 18 d x.jpg Rdstr 9 28 18 a ra x.jpg Rdstr 10 26 18.jpg
     
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  13. DDDenny
    Joined: Feb 6, 2015
    Posts: 19,114

    DDDenny
    Member
    from oregon

    Looks good Baron.
    There are probably more than one way to go about this but that is definitely a project better left to a good metal man, looks like the guy knows what he's doing.
     
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  14. Baron
    Joined: Aug 13, 2004
    Posts: 3,636

    Baron
    ALLIANCE MEMBER


    Couldn't agree more. If I did it ,I would have bent some tubing to give me the line I wanted and cut and welded sheet metal to the existing cowl and tubing, etc (much like the Doane Spencer car was done back in the day) . The finished project would have looked pretty much the same, but a lot more welding and bondo, and no where near the same quality of work. I've seen Jay make doors and various body panels for Ferrari's, Aston Martin's and Porsche's,etc, so doing a "little job" like this was pretty simple. Extremely talented craftsman. Normally he metal finishes every panel so no lead or filler is needed. I had to twist his arm on this to leave it as it was( close to perfect), lead it and I'd skim it with filler. We have been friends for years and 2 1/2 years ago I moved into the shop next door to his, so I have learned a lot about metal finishing and moving metal around. And just watching the stuff he has done has made me have more patience and a better fabricator( who says you can't teach an old dog new tricks? ) I've also learned over the past 40 years that's best to let somebody else do what they do best, and you do what you do best. I am thrilled the way this came out, and a big thanks to Jay. 20180414_112738.jpg
     
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  15. Baron
    Joined: Aug 13, 2004
    Posts: 3,636

    Baron
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Cut and fit the floor boards and fabricated the trans tunnel. The floor boards bolt in the Brookeville body just like the originals did. Trans tunnel 1 x.jpg Trans tunnel 3 x.jpg
     
  16. Baron
    Joined: Aug 13, 2004
    Posts: 3,636

    Baron
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    By drilling out the spot welds on the sides, I cut and raised the section of the trunk floor above the differential. This let me make templates for the kick up and with the inside pieces welded in place, will let me remove the body and finish the kick up and no have to worry about body to frame clearance. Made the rear panel to finish the trunk floor kick-up that can be removed for easy access to the Model A spring in case I need to add or remove spring leaves to dial in the ride height. Also made a couple of cutouts to give me room to run the tail pipes over the Model A cross-member and keep them out of site.
    20170930_180108 x.jpg 20171009_122746 x.jpg 20171027_172031 x.jpg 20190126_132642 x.jpg 20190126_132925.jpg
     
  17. Baron
    Joined: Aug 13, 2004
    Posts: 3,636

    Baron
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

  18. Cool build so far. Can’t wait for more. Thanks for sharing the build!
     
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  19. Baron
    Joined: Aug 13, 2004
    Posts: 3,636

    Baron
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Had the seat temporarily covered so I could set the height of the seat, locate the pedals, steering wheel and shifter. Nothing worse then going through all this work and having a car that is not comfortable to drive , or your knee hits the steering wheel when you try to step on the brake or clutch. Or you have to reach for the shifter to get into the next gear. Making it as ergonomically correct as possible. Leg room in Rdstr.jpg 20180224_160859.jpg 20180224_161742x.jpg
     
  20. hoop
    Joined: Mar 21, 2007
    Posts: 643

    hoop
    Member

    Looking good Baron!
     
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  21. jimgoetz
    Joined: Sep 6, 2013
    Posts: 517

    jimgoetz
    Member

    This thing is just plain sexy.
     
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  22. 1-SHOT
    Joined: Sep 23, 2014
    Posts: 2,691

    1-SHOT
    Member
    from Denton

    Let's buy a windshield frame and build a car around it. Great job and I would not change a thing.
    Frank
     
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  23. Baron
    Joined: Aug 13, 2004
    Posts: 3,636

    Baron
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Here is how I completed the rear kick up on the frame and install the Model A rear cross-member at the same time. By tack welding the inside plates on while the body was on the chassis gave me the shape and height I needed without needing to put the body off and on a few times. Welded the outside plates on , than made the filler strips to cap them off. To weld the rear A cross-member in the correct position (and proper angle to prevent any binding) I installed the A rear spring ( less a few leaves) which located it perfectly. Once this was done, I flipped the frame over and cut out the "C sections" (should give me about 4 inches of axle tube clearance) than capped these off like I did on top. Wanted a nice flowing line from the bottom of the frame rail where it disappears up under the body. Still need to cut the body to follow the new cutout.
    20190105_182700.jpg 20190111_122512x.jpg 20190111_150143x.jpg 20190119_171913 x.jpg Deuce Chassis 2 2 19  a x.jpg Deuce Chassis 2 2 19  e x.jpg Deuce Chassis 2 2 19  g x.jpg Deuce Chassis 2 2 19  q x.jpg 20190203_120749 x.jpg
     
    Last edited: Feb 17, 2019
  24. DDDenny
    Joined: Feb 6, 2015
    Posts: 19,114

    DDDenny
    Member
    from oregon

    Gotta love a think'n man!
     
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  25. loudbang
    Joined: Jul 23, 2013
    Posts: 40,274

    loudbang
    Member

    Great idea. The flowing frame section like that looks so much better than just a half moon cut.
     
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  26. Stooge
    Joined: Sep 9, 2015
    Posts: 504

    Stooge
    Member

    Awesome! Great roadster you have going! love the windshield, the cowl and door modifications, the 4-71, all just a great combination!
     
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  27. 46Chief
    Joined: Jan 2, 2008
    Posts: 176

    46Chief
    Member

    Nice to see craftsmanship!
     
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  28. 1-SHOT
    Joined: Sep 23, 2014
    Posts: 2,691

    1-SHOT
    Member
    from Denton

    Craftsman ship is spot on, the only problem is it's not in my shop. Frank
     
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  29. gary kessler 1932
    Joined: Apr 16, 2010
    Posts: 88

    gary kessler 1932
    Member

    U R doing a great job!!!
     
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  30. Baron
    Joined: Aug 13, 2004
    Posts: 3,636

    Baron
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Back when I built my Deuce 5W back in the eighties, I used a 56F100 box in it . In order to clear the wishbone, I heated and bent the arm outward. Worked fine, but the turning radius on left hand turns was a lot less than right. While putting this chassis together, I did the same thing. Than I remembered the lack of sharp turns to the left. So I decided to move the front wishbone mts inboard about 4 inches. Now I can run a stock 56 pitman arm and turn almost equally sharp as to the right. And it gives the wishbones a better look, disappearing under the chassis. Sometimes we grow older and wiser. :) Deuce drag link interferance a x.jpg 20181031_171018.jpg 20181031_171049.jpg
     
    Last edited: Feb 20, 2019
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