Termites and Bowties- Early Chevy Group

Hey on another note I thought I would share this from Hemming Online! More than 20 years after it became the first car to set the world land-speed record in excess of the speed of sound, ThrustSSC not only still holds the record, it’s also still racking up accolades after the Institution of Mechanical Engineers presented the jet car with its Engineering Heritage Award.
Rory

 

Finally got a set of Steelies for the ride with a little help from some friends. 15x5 in the front and 15x7 in the rear. Gonna hit the used tire shops tomorrow and look for some roller tires to make a set.


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Looking real!

 

That looks AWESOME fastest32

 

Here's some shots that were just shared with me of a friend , Steffen from Germany, having some fun with his 1929 Chevrolet....

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Enjoyed seeing these photos of vintage Chevrolets!!

 

Rudestude, Thanks for posting those here. They belong here I wish Steffen could tell us about them.

 

Love the old Chevrolet. I had a 1926. 30 years ago before cell phones. Wish I had a picture to post.

 

That '32 Chevy 3 window in the classifieds is amazing!!
https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/1932-chevy-3-window-coupe.1139382/
I wouldn't do it with this one but I've been thinking about trying to locate another roadster body (or coupe) and do a transplant onto my frame instead of trying to get through all the body work that my roadster needs.

 

17.5K seems steep....

 

Hey folks, quick question on rear end width on my 31 Chev 5 window....I've got a line on a ford 8" out of a with a width of 61" wheel mount face to wheel mount face. What do you think?

Eddie

 

Too wide.

 

56 inches is the magic number I believe ..

 

If you ran a 60-61" wide rear end you would need rear wheels with totally NEGATIVE OFFSET, 1 inch or less, good luck finding those.
Paul and Joe are right at the 56-57" width as best. Look at 10 bolt chevys in S10 as fairly narrow, also old cameros and novas 1962--67 should fall into that area.

Anybody else have input on stock rear end widths ??
You should be able to do a GOOGLE search on various rear end widths ?????

Google turned up 1983--2004 chev S10 2 wd punches in at 54.25 "
1962-1967 nova 57.75"
1967--1969 camero is 60"

mike lynch

 

90sToyota 4 runner 56 inches wide bolt pattern same as chev 6 bolt . Strong rear ends

 

Thanks for all the input folks. Silly question, but would a rear disc setup in the rear lend the opportunity to modify the mounting width at all?


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Here is my toyota rear end installed .
Go to roundforge.com for widths available.

 

Fast Eddie 27 you can check out this link: http://www.carnut.com/specs/rear.html
For rear end widths! Rory

 

C'mon Paul... Your ''55 - '64 Chevy rear is 60", the most popular rear to drop in an early hot rod. Look at my photos of the two rears in my chassis. Figure there's a few inches of the body just wider than the frame as well. My inside backing plate to backing plate on the QCR is 52/53" to check and see if the body would rub on the tires. I'll know if this will be an issue once the body goes back on to check if my QCR needs to be repositioned so the tire is perfectly centered in the wheel well.

 

I said 61" is too wide. 55-64 works okay with the right wheel, and the narrowest I've run in a 31-32 was 55.5" and with a 8" reversed rim and it looked great. My current project will be 53.5" with an eight inch halibrand style known as a trick 8", with 2.25 bs. I think the 56.5-58 inch would be best for a std. offset rim.

 

one first needs to figure out if they are building a fendered car or a non-fendered car , because non-fendered means you can run whatever width wheel tire combo you want.

Slap stock width fenders on the back and you have to figure in tire size & width plus wheel size and width.
Closer you get the tire/wheel to the frame rails , means your going to need a sway bar of sufficient size to stop body roll and your tires wiping out that nice paint job in the wheel housing. Mine is about 1 1/2" and before I mounted a 3/4" thick sway bar it would rub ever time I went around a corner.

If you already have your wheels tires, place them in the wheel well and measure back to back of the rims. Gives you width of rear end you need.

both my coupe at 57 wide and the tub at 60 fit inside the fenders. The jag wires on tub are negative offset and it just bare fits. My under construction roadster jag rear is 56 "

mike lynch...................madmike3434

 

Looks like this thread needs a bump, so......Is this car Cool, or what!!! Not sure if it's a 34 Master, or a 34 - 35 Standard, though.

 

its a 1934-1935 Chevrolet STANDARD series, using the rear fender as a visible guide.

The rollover on the side is a lot more on a master. As shown by these 3 picture examples.

Hope this red car made it back to the street

mike lynch

 

Much needed bump, thank you Torkwrench. The body is so stock, just modifying the frame to accommodate the horsepower coming from an injected small block Chevy? Smokin' SWEET!!!!

 

Yes, the red coupe looks like it was a well built, high quality car for the time. Looks like the window garnish moldings were even chrome plated. From the reflection, in the doors, it appears to be a very straight car.

This is partly why I wasn't sure if it was a 34 Master, or a 34 - 35 Standard. Thought that perhaps the rear fenders had been nicely radiused.

The rear fenders on my 34 Master will have to be radiused, to run the cheater slicks. The plan is to trim off the fender reveal, and move it up for more tire clearance. This would result in a similar look, to the rear fenders on the red coupe.

 

Don't think I posted these before, this a local GMH (Holden) Chevy coupe. Bolt on sheet metal (Hoods, fenders will swap over) however body shells and doors are totally different to Fishers and won't interchange.


Also, here's another local GMH '35 phaeton. Ozzie cars don't have that pressing above the fender in the 1/4's and feature a spear on cowl rather than a single line pressing. Also Ozzie phaetons didn't have that side pressing in rear 1/4's that extended down from top of door to tailpan area. Also note that the top irons pivot in from different locations on the rear 1/4's

 

tan coloured car is a 35 touring usa built and the red one is mine also usa built. I like the way the Holden top irons sit even with body as opposed to USA built where top irons mount and fold over the outside of the quarter.

Droopy door handles will get fixed this spring with new ones from a 1930 ford 2 door touring, interesting they ( Chevrolet open cars ) have ford parts. I already have them so when I install the new ones will take apart the original and see what color the spring is inside and see if I can find them as spares.

I solved the droopy & dumb looking low door handle issue on my roadster build by welding up the hole.

mike lynch madmike3434

 

Thanks, Torkwrench, for that bump. That red coop is definitely kool!! My first thot seeing the fully chrome headlites was that it was a 3W Master, but I agree seeing the rear fender from that angle that it appears to be a Standard. A look from the rear wud likely provide a more definite clue, yet that's not always possible. Going on what we can see and the fact that a 3W Master coopay was a fairly rare car with only about 18k made, I'd have to say it's a '34/'35 Standard.

 

in that 34 master picture with the slicks on it, does not need the rear fenders radius'd needs a rear wheel without the large positive offset and in they come, inside the fender.

mike lynch

 

Dad did this same thing in 1975 on our 2dr. Town sedan and it gives tire clearance and a better look to the rather "full" stock fenders. Fenders look more like a '33.