Just picked up my new project, steel 1927 t roadster body. It needs typical subframe work but I got the body for a very fair price. Here’s a few pics.
Not sure that I am a fan of the trunk lid, but the rest looks pretty darn good. Keep posting your progress...
I knew it'd fit! Seriously though, that looks to be in pretty good condition! Also, decent turtle decks are very hard to come by. You did good! I gotta ask.....how much?
Looks like a Caravan....good to know a roadster body will fit..., now I just need to find one Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
I have a frame already to go, I started with a fiberglass roadster but found this body so I’ll swap it over to my frame. Boxed A frame mild Z, Pete and jake ladder bars, s10 rearend, Kholer drop axel, 40s ford brakes.
I like that your wife was cool with it in the back of her mini-van. I was going to build a '27 until I found my '34 here on the HAMB classifieds, so, I'm a little bit envious.
Looks like a great start, great price too. The trunklid is kinda neat, at least could be a good wall hanger.
Who makes the best patch panels for model T roadster? Also is there any places that makes model T sub rails
Howell's is about the only one who makes patch panels. Don't order directly from Howell's, order through one of their vendors, Mac's, Ebay, etc. Surprisingly, their lower bun panels are quite good. However, their rear lower 1/4 panel patches were horrific! Not even close. Had to slice and dice the crap outta 'em to get them to fit. https://www.macsautoparts.com/ford_...e-deck-rear-corner-patch-panels-roadster.html Another option is old washing machines. The 'free' section of CL is full of 'em. I have 6 or 7 patch panels on mine that are made from washing machine sheet metal. Lots of large flat sections and just the right gauge too! Also, subrails are unnecessary. You already have a custom frame, just bolt the body panels to your frame.
It appears in your photos that the lower few inches of the body needs some reconstruction. I don' know how anal you are about getting the lines visually close to correct. If you are going to make your own patch panels, be wary of using an FRP (fiberglass) body as a guide, as virtually all of them are wrong in the lower, back area on the main body (cockpit). I thought I'd pass this observation along for your consideration: The rounded body curvature of the original T becomes horizontal at the very bottom of the body, just above the frame rail in side view. On most (if not all!) FRP bodies, this contour becomes horizontal in line with the bottom of the door. I have wondered for years what originally caused this anomaly. Did the first FRP body supplier pull a mold off a poorly reconstructed body, and then all subsequent manufacturers just buy a body from Mfr #1 to make their molds?!?
Cool beans. Makes me wish my wife hadn't wrecked our Grand Caravan as that was one handy rig and had all wheel drive. That body is one hell of a lot better than the one I have out back. It's hacked beyond belief.
I will mostly likely buy patch panels, I’m not looking for a show car but something that I can drive and will still look nice
Nice body, good luck with the build. One thing, don’t listen to the know nothing above who said that you don’t need sub rails, you most definitely do as they are the structural base of your body and align and tie the body together so that you can mount it to the frame properly using the body mounts that just happen to be attached to....wait for it.... the sub rails ! !