Technical Starter relay necessary ?

Generally adding the ford type solenoid cleans things up, unless it's slapped in like that one.
I'd move it.
The max fuse holder or fusible link are necessary. Placement is optional.generally if it pops you have a bigger issue to correct than simply changing the fuse but not as big of a issue like burning the car to the ground. Having super easy in your face acess to it like your headlight light switch is not important,

 

Wired differently?
That's true but an Understatement,effectively it's adding battery cable amperage to the itty bitty S terminal.

 

I started using the Ford style solenoid back in my stock car days, the car always started when many others didn't. I did the same in my Ford out of convenience as well, all those little fiddly wires and nuts down on the solenoid... nah...

 

Like this right?


Grumpy's version http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...ing-a-remote-ford-solenoid-chevy-starter.299/

 

Totally agree

 

Used the Ford solenoid (relay) for years, on many different makes. (VW esp.!)
Johnny's schematic is the preferred way to use this relay.
Agree with Deuce Mac on Eddy current, seen it before and diagnosis was made with starter HOT. If you're not using it, 'shut it off'!
This Ford solenoid can be used for a myriad of operations, such as winches, and other high-amp motors.
Bosch relays are available in different amp ratings, also. But they are restrictive in their usage, due to size/capacity.

 

That's a Ford solenoid to start with and no you don't need a relay. The amperage to excite the solenoid is very low. Usually the exciter wire is 16-18 gauge.

 

I believe you're right Johnny. I had a Chevelle SS 396 that I bought used, and the PO had installed a secondary push button switch under the dash, wired with heavier gauge wire, probably #18 though may have been 16, it's been a long time ago, to the S terminal, leaving the original wire in place, so both were connected. Whenever the hot start situation occurred and the starter would not engage using the key switch, I just used the secondary push button and it always engaged the starter. The only difference was the size of the wire.

 

It's not that I'm right or wrong. It's how that Ford solenoid helps things along, rather how it all works together. By putting a strap, jumper, shunt, what have you on the Chevy solenoid that now will make a Chevy starter a normally closed circuit solenoid/relay (figuratively speaking) that has no means of turning it's self off when doing the most common style conversion as I've displayed.

 

On original Ford starting systems the solenoids were actuated by grounding one terminal through the starter button. Most if not all modern starters use a hot/positive wire to actuate the starter. This requires a hot wire to run to the button or key switch. If a person wants to keep the original Ford starter button with a late model starter the early Ford solenoid can be used to bypass the internal solenoid and keep the interior of the old Ford original. I always preferred the Ford toggle switch and push button as it allows the engine to turn without the ignition on. Helpful for building oil pressure and turning the engine without starting it.

 

That looks close to what I have in my car.

 

So what you're doing is you're providing more power to the S terminal , wouldn't a 40 amp relay in the purple wire circuit with 10 gauge wire do the same thing w/o cutting the positive CABLE and fooling with another solenoid ??

 

The joy of science is trying no matter the out come. Try it!

 

Well that. makes no applicable sense ....

 

Wtf are you talking about ??
Your posit does add another relay as well
plus it adds at least another wire some where to get 40 amps
Plus it adds a heavier wire where space is tight


Using the Ford style starter relay and the jumper from S to battery lug eliminates wires in tight spaces, and the natural consequence of installing the mandatory jumper delivers full battery amperage to the S terminal. 600 or so not 40 Amps.

Simple easy and works

BTW that exact style of contractor that everybody is calling a "Ford solenoid" can be found on a whole bunch of other things too.

 

^^^^^^ ( contactor )

 

Lucas make a wide selection of such things, he said running for cover

Chris

 

Yeah,

 

Yeah,

 

I don't like cutting the positive bat cable . A 40a relay is smaller than a solenoid ( contactor) a n d can easily fit by the starter . 10 GA. Wire from battery post on starter to relay , 10 GA. Power back to S terminal , purple wire from Ign. Switch operates relay. So , 10 GA. Is smaller, easier to run than bat cable, 40 amp relay is smaller than contactor . If it ta km es more than 40 amps to operate the solenoid , replace it !!

 

Using the Bosch relay down by the starter works if needed. Delco Remy has been using a piggyback relay on their medium and heavy duty starters for a while.

 

There's nothing wrong with a two piece cable provided you get a good connection and good lugs. There's an few fords out there wired this way ya know.

Oh yeah, once it's converted dropping the starter gets a lot easier

 

I put them on my hot rod to 1. not have constant power to the starter 2. I grab power to my fuse panel from the feed supply of the solenoid. When you supply power to the starter , the little jumper powers the solenoid to shove the plunger of the starter gear. I once had the fuseable links fail on my tow chevy on the way to Bonneville and it was a hot greasy mess to fix at the starter, where the power leads came from.. Had the power leads been on the firewall I would of had a clean not burning hot exhaust to deal with. Where do you think Chevy got their 'Hot Shot' relays?

 

All I'm saying is , I see no point in 2 solenoids , 2 positive cables , and a jumper when the original solenoid 1 battery cable and $5 relay will do the same thing ....
( And a dollars worth of wire and 5 wire ends)

 

Painless #30202.....

 

But what creates the magnetism within for said action to occur?

 

Some FoMoCo solenoids are triggered via ground....others use a hot wire.

For your enjoyment!

https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink?ur...share_tid=862003&share_fid=11843&share_type=t


Sent from my SM-G950U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

When Ford changed over to their permanent magnet mini starter in the 1980's, they put a solenoid on the starter, and still used the old style solenoid, now called a relay, on the firewall. If it didn't work, why would they spend all that money designing them and the extra cost of the extra relay or solenoid?

Simple. Ford didn't want it's customers stranded due to a heat soak no start condition. The technology works, believe it or not. Ford still uses it on vehicles today.

 

Electric current passing thru a copper wire around iron creates magnetism.
Disclaimer
I've never taken one of them apart